or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Handmade Shoes
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Handmade Shoes - Page 4

post #46 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post
New shell cordovan new shoes.

In this weekend we update our site with goodyear construction.
You knows this shell cordovan company? Is it good?

Horween e l'ottima (ma non c'e delle altre ).
post #47 of 194
..
post #48 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post
Simple video with three different type construction for quality handmade shoes.
Goodyear simple and elegant. (the welt is needlework symmetrically )
Me think it not goodyear,
it hand welted.
Goodyear use machine invented by Charles Goodyear
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welt_(shoe)

Quote:
Norwegian inconfodible and special. (there is not welt)
lt look like a version of norvegese.
No fastener on bottom of insole.
You do Awl technique similar to bentivegna (push from inside out).

Quote:
Bentivegna indestructible. (the welt is needlework a-symmetrically)
lnteresting version of Bentivegna.
There seem various way to do it.

See diagram below to compare how various makers do Bentivegna, norwegian and norvegese.
You do it differently.
Even your version of hand welted is different from most makers.
lnteresting.
LL
IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later.       I AGREE

TIP: to embed Youtube clips, put only the encoded part of the Youtube URL, e.g. eBGIQ7ZuuiU between the tags.
post #49 of 194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Son Of Saphir View Post
Me think it not goodyear, it hand welted. Goodyear use machine invented by Charles Goodyear http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welt_(shoe) lt look like a version of norvegese. No fastener on bottom of insole. You do Awl technique similar to bentivegna (push from inside out). lnteresting version of Bentivegna. There seem various way to do it. See diagram below to compare how various makers do Bentivegna, norwegian and norvegese. You do it differently. Even your version of hand welted is different from most makers. lnteresting.
I do not think there is a specification certificate, we use Norwegian (or Norwegian) construction in which the upper is reopened on the outside and does not have a welt. For Bentivegna (some call it differently) we call costrucione with folded welt outside. I attach a photo of one of our prototype Norwegian cut in half with the visible parts. There is four leather sole, and three seams.
post #50 of 194
Thread Starter 
Another image for explain.
post #51 of 194
Welcome to the forvm and we look forward to more of your posts.
post #52 of 194
Edit: Glad that Sartorialini was removed...
post #53 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sartorialini View Post
And then we have the "usual crowd" in SF extolling the heavenly virtues of Goodyear welted construction as if there was no other god on earth.

Note that I actually think the Italian shoes in this thread are probably BS because of how they look and how their representative speaks English (i.e it looks like someone trying to pass as an Italian with bad English, not a real Italian with bad English)

But how many constructions does the UK have, well let's see: Goodyear, glue job

How many constructions does Italy have? Who knows...

It shows what i said in a previous post- english shoes are like anglo-saxon food/coffee chains- there is no soul to it. All done in Northampton using one construction -sure sometimes well done sometimes not, materials quality varies widely, etc etc- but in the end you have the product of a society whose traditions (small to begin with) were obliterated by the massification of the industrial revolution, in which shoemaking became epitomised by a machine made by this Goodyear fellow

In italy local quirks and individuality have survived. And yes there is all kinds of junk made in italy in industrial quantities but there is so much good stuff in so many variants.

Note, I am not advising anyone to buy the massified Italian crap that gets shipped to the US stores, but try to look around the web- hell travel to italy for holidays. And of course be careful, when you go to starbucks you know what u going to get, when you get adventurous things can go very well but also very badly- but the message is , try new stuff and don't get carried away with SF EG, CJ, XY, GG whatever group think-

What a load of rubbish! There is good and bad stuff made in England, same as Italy, same as everywhere else. So what else is new? Top notch English shoes are exactly that, as are top notch Italian. Again, what else is new?
post #54 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by sartorialini View Post
But how many constructions does the UK have, well let’s see: Goodyear, glue job How many constructions does Italy have? Who knows… All done in Northampton using one construction. ...the massification of the industrial revolution, in which shoemaking became epitomised by a machine made by this Goodyear fellow In italy local quirks and individuality have survived. And yes there is all kinds of junk made in italy in industrial quantities but there is so much good stuff in so many variants.
anglo-bashing...please try harder next time. What you're actually ranting about is that bespoke shoes are better than mass produced ones(obviously). I still have no idea what Italy has to do with anything, I'd rather choose Marcel Hun over "Mario the quirky shoemaker". Also bespoke shoes are pricey. And where would you resole? Even GY welted shoes does take an extra effort to find a competent cobbler.
post #55 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post



Wow,
that insole really thick.

What you use for filler (white stuff)?
post #56 of 194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Son Of Saphir View Post
Wow, that insole really thick. What you use for filler (white stuff)?
For white stuff in this shoes (second trance of prototypes), we used a natural felt, but we using also cork. In fact, that picture does not show the lining as in design, but sewn, now do not do anymore. We produce shoes for other brands also British, and we know that what is in store is often not worth the price paid.
post #57 of 194
Thread Starter 
Another small "Chicca", unfortunately the pictures this is done with the phone ...



Goodyear construction di Pierigiacomi, su Flickr

To welt in this building was added a profile.
post #58 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post

I really love on all of these how there are elements which deviate from what seem like the standard shoe templates, and yet their formality remains unquestionable. The textures on the leather are also awesome. Please tell your father that his work looks wonderful.
post #59 of 194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mktitsworth View Post
I really love on all of these how there are elements which deviate from what seem like the standard shoe templates, and yet their formality remains unquestionable. The textures on the leather are also awesome. Please tell your father that his work looks wonderful.

Thanks, unfortunately the photos do not see well (I am a bad photographer), and we can not permit stores outside.
post #60 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by piergiacomi View Post
Another small "Chicca", unfortunately the pictures this is done with the phone ...


Oh, this shoe absolutely sings to me. Beautiful work.

Please make a pair for me!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Handmade Shoes