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New Bespoke Coat - Page 5

post #61 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by von Rothbart

There's nothing feminine about waist suppression that shows off a V-shaped torso. Those who say so are having a sour-grape syndrome and they don't have that type of body to pull it off.
post #62 of 100
Great coat. I fall in the "too much waist suppression" camp, but, different strokes for different folks. Too much waist suppression makes you look like you're wearing a corset.

In any case, it seems like the tailor of this coat really knew what he was doing and made this jacket spot on. It doesn't matter what you like, as long as the tailor gives you exactly what you like. I also love the look of the shoulder and "cleanliness" of the back. Not to mention the fabric, which is beautiful. I've been looking for something similar myself (though, this coat is probably well out of my price range).
post #63 of 100
Well done Matt.
post #64 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by odoreater
Great coat. I fall in the "too much waist suppression" camp, but, different strokes for different folks. Too much waist suppression makes you look like you're wearing a corset.

In any case, it seems like the tailor of this coat really knew what he was doing and made this jacket spot on. It doesn't matter what you like, as long as the tailor gives you exactly what you like. I also love the look of the shoulder and "cleanliness" of the back. Not to mention the fabric, which is beautiful. I've been looking for something similar myself (though, this coat is probably well out of my price range).

Meh. I think it's an american thing, hence the predominance of the sack suit. I think the waist suppression looks great. I'm also a slim guy and jackets with waist suppression look 500% better on me than those that don't. The waist suppression on this jacket is perfect btw. Often times you'll see tension develop in the jacket when it's buttoned up but Matt's looks perfect.

My only critical comment is that perhaps something a bit more structured might be warranted given his un-even shoulders. There's quite a difference between his right and left shoulder and I'm wondering if the difference could be slightly reduced. Having said that, the tailor did a good job of maintaing balance despite that problem.

Regardless, it's certainly first-class work. I wish my first bespoke had turned-out that well :P
post #65 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek
Meh. I think it's an american thing, hence the predominance of the sack suit.

post #66 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek
Meh. I think it's an american thing, hence the predominance of the sack suit. I think the waist suppression looks great. I'm also a slim guy and jackets with waist suppression look 500% better on me than those that don't. The waist suppression on this jacket is perfect btw. Often times you'll see tension develop in the jacket when it's buttoned up but Matt's looks perfect.

My only critical comment is that perhaps something a bit more structured might be warranted given his un-even shoulders. There's quite a difference between his right and left shoulder and I'm wondering if the difference could be slightly reduced. Having said that, the tailor did a good job of maintaing balance despite that problem.

Regardless, it's certainly first-class work. I wish my first bespoke had turned-out that well :P


--- I was getting off topic

Back to the topic: the coat: The shoulderwork is what amazes me on this jacket as it appears Matt has some individulistic custom requirements. Very well done.
post #67 of 100
.........but I can understand how some would have a problem with the waist suppression. But, it would be absurd to think that an adverse opinion would be indicative of a persons physique or nationality.
post #68 of 100
Quote:
I think the perception problems people are having with the suppression arises from the way most people on the boards take pictures of their clothing. Most people taking pictures of themselves use the automatic photo delay on a digital camera and place the camera on a table, desk, etc. The problem is that tables are too short and the lense is angled right on the mid section of the body. Our eye level is much higher than a table or desk and if we were to see this jacket in person, or take a photo of it, we would have a different perception of the jacket unless we crouched down.

Excellent point. That may be it.

Quote:
There's nothing feminine about waist suppression that shows off a V-shaped torso. Those who say so are having a sour-grape syndrome and they don't have that type of body to pull it off

As Mr. Sator and others have pointed out, waist suppression can look very good on men too. I think the key is that it has to be balanced with the rest of the jacket (upper area) and the silouette of the outfit (including pants) so that the lower area (waist and hips) do not become the focus of attention.

It does not change the fact that the jacket is very nice. If it were me (which it is not) I would try slightly less waist suppression next round, add a little more something in the upper area of the jacket (discuss with tailor), and get more fitting pants made to blend with the jacket.

By the way, the neck/collar area shown in the back pic is gorgeous (and my opinions have nothing to do with sour grape syndrome or America )
post #69 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
Excellent point. That may be it.



As Mr. Sator and others have pointed out, waist suppression can look very good on men too. I think the key is that it has to be balanced with the rest of the jacket (upper area) and the silouette of the outfit (including pants) so that the lower area (waist and hips) do not become the focus of attention.

It does not change the fact that the jacket is very nice. If it were me (which it is not) I would try slightly less waist suppression next round, add a little more something in the upper area of the jacket (discuss with tailor), and get more fitting pants made to blend with the jacket.

By the way, the neck/collar area shown in the back pic is gorgeous (and my opinions have nothing to do with sour grape syndrome or America )

---I personally think a man should strive to be athletic and v tapered. And there is nothing more masculine and stylish than a well tailored jacket with waist suppression. The ideal, healthy, athletic male has broad shoulders/chest that V to a smaller waist, I don't see how a jacket that emphasizes this is fem.
post #70 of 100
Thread Starter 
I don't know that I can respond to all of the questions and comments other than to say thanks. I think that all of them (well excepting one rogue 17 year old poster) are very helpful and well thought out. Just a few points that came up: 1. The waist suppression was (obviously) very much by design. That particular kind of waist is not all that common nowadays although it was in the 30s and 40s. Today the tendench is towards tight around the middle, while the look that we went for was shaped without being tight. It is definitely a particular style, and while I certainly do not find it feminine, I can understand that it is not what is normally seen. 2. My shoulders are a bit uneven, but all three of us (me, Rubinacci and the cutter) felt that a lack of padding was a better solution than heavy padding to even the shoulders out. I really would not have it any other way. 3. One thing that did not come up much was is the fact that the coat is a good inch or two shorter than most tailored clothing. My (very small) backside is covered... almost. 4. The fabric is a vintage shetland tweed. Mr. Rubinacci believed it to be from the fifties. It is extremely weighty. 5. The height of the collar surprised me a bit. I did not really notice it until a few days ago. I personally love it, and think that it adds a dimension that is rarely seen in a collar. It is a full half inch taller than standard, but conforms to my neck the whole way up. I have to say that it is quite striking. Thanks again for all of the kind comments.
post #71 of 100
You just converted me into the pro-patch pockets camp. Wonderful jacket.
post #72 of 100
Iammatt,

I love the high collar. It is very distinctive!

Could you describe how the gorgeous shoulders are achieved?
post #73 of 100
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho
Iammatt,

I love the high collar. It is very distinctive!

Could you describe how the gorgeous shoulders are achieved?
I really can't say any more than that you should read Manton's explanation of the "manica camicia". Mine is not particularly full and pleated, but it is constructed just as he says. My shoulders a naturally square, so that is what gives the shape to the shoulder line.
post #74 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso
.........but I can understand how some would have a problem with the waist suppression. But, it would be absurd to think that an adverse opinion would be indicative of a persons physique or nationality.

My comment was directed only to those who unduely characterized waist suppression as being feminine not to those who didn't agree with waist suppression stylistically or as a matter of personal preference.
post #75 of 100
Wow, what a life this thread has taken on. Let me just agree that it's a very beautiful jacket. I'm all for suppression. The cloth is particularly gorgeous and the way the shoulders and collar are shaped is simply amazing. Thanks for posting the pictures.
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