The best suit maker? - Page 3
Indeed that is true, but I was only kidding in the first place. I could think of better ways of generating and preserving wealth that does not include debauchery with various employees.
With vast means, I would first select one cloth, and have it made up in the same style by whatever I decided were the dozen or so top tailors (eg: Rubinacci, Solito, A and S, Huntsman, R Anderson, Poole, Dege, Kilgour, Steed, Hitchcock Jr, etc).
Then and only then would I feel able to pick one as "the best" for me (and even then with reservations: I can imagine the fantasy me picking different tailors for different types of garment - A and S or expatriates for DB, Huntsman or Richard A for SB, Italians for summer odd jackets, Nortons for shooting suit...).
I would of course write this up in detail on SF, and allow other members to cut the suits up to assess their construction.
If I am a billionaire:
For Savile Row, I'll try Chittleborough & Morgan. I love their style: British roped shoulder, ultra structured suit (which enables them to build beautiful shape) and superb fit at the back (reference: Threat an adventure of bespoke: C&M). Next I will spend on ULTIMATE BESPOKE suit from Maurice Sedwell, simply because he's one of the most experienced and most talent tailors on the row. Moreover, he can produce more conservative suit than C&M's extreme style.
For French tailor, Cifonelli, Camps de Luca or Smalto. I choose Cifonelli instead since it seems like the produce more artistic suits and blazers than the other 2. However, for business suit i'll recommend Camps or Smalto as they produce cleaner rope shoulder. Moreover, Camps specialises in lightweight cloths.
For Italy I'll go for Neapolitan suit rather than Roman or Milanese one since the latter 2 have structured style which quite similiar to British style (although they have some minor different from UK lads but not much). In Napoli I may avoid large houses like Attolini or Rubinacci. Why? Firstly, Rubinacci is well known for Mario Rubinacci, the grandfather of the young Rubinacci u guys see regularly at Pitti, and that old gentlemen now hardly invoives in any bespoke work. For Attolini, they're best known for Vincenzo Attolini (the one who created the Neapolitan deconstructed style) and Claudio Attolini (Vicenzo's son). However, the Ceasar Attolini hardly ever refer to those two great gentlemen, which makes me doubt whether the present Attolini's bespoke suit approaches the same class of their ancestors. Therefore, I'll go for Sartoria Peluso / Panico / Iciardi family / Zizolfi / Formosa / Saboni. These tailors are referred as Mastor tailors in the film O'Mast and are recommended by our well-respected SF member SartodiNapoli.
For shoes: I will choose Corthay for their creativity in work, but also use Dimitri Gomez for conservative business shoes.
Firstly because those can afford K-50 hardly have any time to spend on a forum to discuss about it. Secondly, although the price is up to something 50 000$, the suit, the number of hours spent on K-50 suit is only 50 hours, which is the entry level of a tailor who wants to be in Savile Row association: Welsh & Jefferies spends 50 hours at least, Dege & Skinner is 60 something, 80 for Huntsman and 95 for Maurice Sedwell. However, the price of a SR suit is nearly tenfold cheaper than that of K-50 (the most expensive tailors are Sedwell and Huntsman with starting price of 5500GBP (incl. VAT) and nearly 6000GBP respectively). Not mentioning that Desmon Merrion and Westmancott both provide ultimate bespoke with around hundred hours of tailoring, 100% hand-made by them, with the price of 30 000GBP (I'm not sure about their quality, but it seems like with similiar price those two provide more exceptional service than Kiton with their K-50). I do not really mean that hours spending on a suit correlated with the quality, and I have full respect for those who produce K-50 as best tailors in the world, but it does not seem that those Kiton's gentlemen can make a suit worth tenfold SR's prices, given that they spend least amount of hours compared with SR tailors. However, if 50 000$ do not mean anything to you, then you should try.