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3/19! MOAR of RJman's H&B,wool ties,Petronius,Stefano Ricci Ballantyne,Arnys!

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Thread Starter 
ADDED NEW ITEMS SATURDAY 3/19/11! More coming…

Added Arnys, Rare Stefano Ricci/Ballantyne ties, Battistoni PS, MORE AMAZING wool and tweed ties, MORE Petronius, Dege &Skinner Savile Row, MORE Holliday & Brown, MORE Charles Hill and still available: literal luxury vintage from Budd, Dare & Dolphin, Viyella and others,, ties from Petronius, Battistoni, Drake’s, Holliday & Brown, Charles Hill and Cravats ties, Calabrese, Richard James cufflinks and MUCH more!
Watch this space...



This burgundy bridle hide Tanner Krolle briefcase is incredible. If you’re not acquainted with it, Tanner Krolle has in recent years been the other name in British case making along with Swaine Adeney. In the past it made some items for Asprey, among others. Where Swaine Adeney was infuriatingly classic, TK was design-led. It went through some upsets and is now regrouped and operating out of Berkeley Square, making many items on a bespoke basis, in any event even more expensively than Swaine Adeney but with rather better service – I recently had to use TK’s repair service on another, more fashion-forward item and they were uncharacteristically communicative, quick and helpful for a British heritage maker. They do not sell this item from stock anymore; in fact, the closest comparable version is a bespoke limited edition model which they will make to order for a starting price of Pounds 2,500 to 3,300!!!!
http://www.tannerkrolle.com/product-...-lawyers-case/

This case has plenty of features that make it sturdier and more imposing than most current makers’ models I can think of. New condition (apart from minor smudges on outside), including lock combo reset papers and blank address sheet in the included luggage tag, it is in the thickest bridle hide I have ever seen on a business case, with reinforced corners to boot and generous dimensions. The handle is hand-stitched British goodness, and it’s attached to brass rings themselves on brass plates riveted onto the frame of the case. (Recently having had to have SAB repair the bridle leather loops on a briefcase, I can approve of using metal.) I have owned cases from Dunhill, Swaine Adeney, Glenroyal and TK, and I can say that of them all only this one has bridle hide that is literally a quarter inch thick on the sides – before you get to the reinforced corners. Why am I getting rid of this? Because I need something with a handle and a shoulder strap, so I’ve dug my first, medwards-approved SAB out of reconditioned slumber and am using it again. 17.5” across at top, unexpanded width at bottom 6” and 13” tall. The inside is lined in burgundy moiré alcantara with unlined sides and has several compartments. A case like this is the leather lunch pail that announces you have made it, and spent it on this case. $600 shipped in US, $650 (it’s big and heavy) shipped internationally.























Richard James Savile Row sterling silver and handblown glass cube and sphere cufflinks. I’ve been culling through my cufflinks as I’ve realized what I do and don’t wear regularly. These are fantastic, eyecatching, elegant and just don’t quite fit with my work and life style nowadays. RJ first introduced his line of cufflinks in 1999 or 2000, moving from blown glass spheres in contrasting colors that recalled marbles to cubes and later on studded “Sputnik” variants. The quality was excellent and the styling distinctive – very original and yet at some level atavistic. These are fitting examples: red glass cubes on one end of a sterling silver stem, orange spheres on the other. The glass is translucent allowing for a wonderful play of light. I’ve tried to capture that in my photos. Yes, they are sold with the box; I’ve worn them a few times but they’ve seen very little use and are in excellent condition.

Hallmarked and marked “RJ” as well on the stems; made in England.

$110 shipped in US, $120 shipped internationally.


















As many of you may have gathered from my sale threads, I have been a bit of a collector of interesting vintage things that appeal to me. Sometimes I realize I have bought something just for curiosity rather than its utility in my own wardrobe. These two Stefano Ricci for the old Ballantyne silk ties handmade in Italy are an example of such items. While beautiful in their own right, I ended up always choosing other ties to wear each morning. Each tie bears the label “Designed by Stefano Ricci for Ballantyne” – as they’re handmade in Italy I believe Ricci made them as well, much like how Edward Green made the English shoes labeled “Designed by Edward Green for Paul Stuart.” Certainly not all Ballantyne ties are or were made by Stefano Ricci; I have no idea who makes the ties for the current incarnation of Ballantyne (which is all made in Italy or Romania except for the hand intarsia sweaters), but I feel pretty safe that these are examples of some of the best tiemaking for what used to be one of the very best cashmere companies.

Ballantyne by Stefano Ricci 1: Neat burgundy double paisley with gold corners print on bronze ground; textured gold tipping. “Designed by Stefano Ricci for Ballantyne” woven into keeper and printed on the tail. 3 1/16” at widest and approx. 56” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 internationally.









Ballantyne by Stefano Ricci 2: Tiny white paisley with highlight outline on burgundy ground with diagonal ribbing effect; textured red tipping. At the tail the print changes to a psychedelic plaid/diamond print affair, mildly subversive in a very constipated way. “Designed by Stefano Ricci for Ballantyne” woven into keeper and printed on the tail. 3 1/16” at widest and approx. 56” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 internationally.


















Bright red silk twill Petronius tie with small cream and yellow paisleys outlined in dark blue. Another subversive CBD tie – soporific pattern with confidently bright ground, confront each new day with this tie. Self keeper tacked at sides and stitched into center seam. Hand made in Italy, by a maker at the cutting edge of SF MC groupthink. 58” long by 3.5” at widest. . $40 shipped in US, $46 shipped internationally.











The following is one of those ties that you just don’t see the likes of – Petronius silk tie with what appears to be medieval Chinese images. A curiosity like an Hermès scarf tie, only rarer – perhaps you can accessorize it with a Drakes Moghul scene pocket square for extra cultural confusion. Hand made in Italy, printed silk twill with a silvery white ground, colors are teals, tans, bronzes and yellows. 57” long by 3.75” at widest. . $40 shipped in US, $46 shipped internationally.












Amazing Arnys tie: violet paisleys which at closer look turn out to be tone-on-tone purple deer, on a ground of olive interspersed with paler green shrubbery. Very Arnys, but subtle enough not to be obnoxious. Self keeper tacked at sides. Arnys medallion and print number printed on tail of blade. Hand made in Italy. 3.5” at widest by approx. 57” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.














Enrico Mantoni Italian silk tie. Textured silk print paisleys in sober colors befitting the namesake of this tie. Wear it in memory of the departed poster who symbolized all that was good about SF (outside of CE) and try in some way to conjure back a small fraction of the knowledge, helpfulness and eloquence that he brought to SF during his time here. OK, the tie has nothing to do with Manton or with his pr0nsake Anton Michael, but the name’s an amusing coincidence. Decent tie. 3 5/8” at widest and 58” long. $16 shipped in US, $22 internationally.










SuperCBD Battistoni silk twill tie : tan and red diamonds with green, red and tan medallions printed on midnight blue ground. Hand made in Italy. Unlike its sister tie above, no pattern number printed on it, but I’ve got Battistoni stuff that doesn’t even have the name on it. This is the sober stuff to wear when you mean business. Soft silk with almost powdery feel. 56” long by 3.625” at widest. $35 shipped in US, $41 shipped internationally.








Tie by Caleffi, one of the best shirtmakers in Rome. Fall colors paisley and leaf woodcut-style print. Hand made in Italy. 3 7/8” wide by 59” long. $23 $15 shipped in US, $29 $21 shipped internationally.









I guess we all go through a splashy tie phase… Here are some from my Krawattenausbildung (no Hans or Fritz).

iGent-eriffic umbrella pattern tie. Colorful umbrellas with variegated canopies on red silk twill groun . Self keeper tacked on the sides and tucked into the center seam. . Hand made in Italy for the Roman shop Seven Hills. Width 3.75”, length 56”. $23 $15 shipped in US, $29 $21 shipped internationally.














Litrico (another storied Flusser favorite) gold, peach and burgundy paisleys. Wonderfully soft. . Made in Italy. 3.75” wide by 53”. $24 $15 shipped in US, $30 $21 shipped internationally.









Gorgeous handmade woven coral paisley on steely blue-grey silk tie by Angelo Litrico… for C&A (). What can I say, at some point they actually must have had nice-looking stuff among their offerings. 57” long by 3 5/8” at widest. $15 shipped in US, $21 shipped internationally.








I suppose a subset of splashy ties are woven figure ties. Some follow:


Blue and green repp silk tie with woven shield with coronet and what appears to be a lion rampant. The heraldic shield picks out the colors of the striped ground: burgundy, gold and green. The stripe pattern also features pale grey and royal blue. Made for an old shop in Lisbon. Just under 3.75” at widest and 56” long. . $22 shipped in US, $28 shipped internationally.








Six Nations rugby silk tie with woven symbols of different countries including the French cock (no surrender monkey, ha ha), the ostrich feathers of the Prince of Wales, the Irish shamrock, the shield of the Italian Republic, and more. Nice royal blue heavy silk twill, self keeper tacked and stitched into the center seam. 57” long by 3.75” at widest. $19 shipped in US, $25 shipped internationally.











A very nice navy repp weave with red currency symbols (dollars, pounds, Deutschmarks, lira), made in England for the pukka English Sports Shop of Bermuda but I had a reading comprehension FAIL and discovered it was polyester. It looked and felt like the real thing and is quite interesting and not loud as such ties go. Amaze your friends, break the ice at naughty parties. Only your hairdresser will know for sure. 56” long by 3” at widest. $15 shipped in US, $21 shipped internationally.









Heraldic print Santandrea (Saintandrews) silk tie. Shields and blazons with lions rampant, castles, fleurs-de-lys and quarterings. Burgundy silk twill ground. Self keeper tacked at the sides. Formerly known as Saintandrews, Santandrea is the maker of the RLPL Italian-made clothing. 4” wide by 58”. $24 shipped in US, $30 shipped internationally.













Some beautiful brocaded ties from the Italian tiemaker Calabrese – start a new SF trend...

Red, grey and green woven motif Calabrese tie. 3.75” by 60”. $20 $15 shipped in US, $26 $21 shipped internationally.













Calabrese iridescent woven foliage tie with gold stripe. Tones change depending on light and angle. Very cool – leaves are in shades of green and blue-green, ground is steel grey going to steel blue. 3” by 56”.










Sober Landsman of the Via Veneto business tie; printed silk twill with red, gold and a touch of green faceted polygons and tiny flowers on a navy ground. Self keeper tacked at sides and into seam. Perfect with a blue shirt in almost any shade, end the bleary-eyed morning tie hunt. 3 7/8” at widest by 57” long. $17 shipped in US, $23 shipped internationally.









Unwanted gift – New with tags silk tie with chestnut and red daisies hand-printed in Italy on a sweet cream butter-yellow silk twill ground by Rooster for Burdines. Appears to be hand slipped too. Nice color for spring. 3 1/8” at widest by 54” long. $20 shipped in US, $26 shipped internationally.











Galtrucco white large dot on dark blue silk tie. Self keeper. Made in Italy for the Roman drapers celebrated by Flusser. 57” long by 3.5” at widest. $17 shipped in US, $23 shipped internationally.











Ex-Sulka tiemaker DeCasi Fashions pearl silk satin skinny tie. As noted by Flusser, DeCasi was one of the few custom tiemakers in New York and was owned by Henry Stewart, the New York-based bespoke tailor who was the brother of Sammy Stewart of Savile Row tailors Lord & Stewart (Richard Walker notes that there never was a Lord). This tie is gorgeous and soft, and shimmers gently. It looks like something from Dior Homme during its Hedi Slimane days. Own a bit of the unwritten and unsung history of quality clothing. 2 9/16” at widest by 52” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.










I’m selling a bunch of pocket squares as I now wear Kent Wang’s RJ cat pocket squares almost exclusively. While I urge any of you interested to keep the posse alive and purchase one (I derive no benefit from Kent’s sales except the satisfaction of seeing my late cat’s memory prolonged), I also urge you to invest in my PSs.

Battistoni green silk print pocket square. Hardly ever used this as it was too CBD for me. Hand-rolled silk made in Italy. Classic pocket square motifs of fancy gold and blue lozenge/diamond prints inside a gold and paisley border. This was purchased at the Battistoni shop they used to have in Milan. It doesn’t have and never had a Battistoni tag or print anywhere, so you’ll have to take my word on this. 16.5” on a side. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.












Robert Talbott "Chelsea" pocket square in thick violet silk twill and lion rampant design. Machined edges. Unfortunately the idiotic Century 21 label on the reverse left an adhesive mark, but it is not visible from the front and does not affect wear. I don't think I ever wore this and I bought it new. $20 $17 shipped in US, $25 $23 shipped internationally. 11.5" on a side.






John Molloy of Ardara real Irish Donegal tweed tie. You supply the bottle of Creed Green Irish Tweed; this tie has all the other colors joyously slubbed throughout its wonderful, soft wool stripe pattern of pale grey, charcoal and red. Winking like stars are tiny points of bright green, turquoise, violet, red, cyan, royal… Molloy is one of the last and best of the Irish tweed weavers, but I don’t know if you’ll find a tie like this again. 3.75” at widest by 54” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.












The Scotch House chocolate brown (no edmorel) glen plaid with forest green overcheck pure wool tie made in Scotland. Lovely pattern; the green overcheck makes the tie really stand out while the wool makes the tie as luscious to hold as to wear. 4” at widest by 55” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.














Sometimes you just want a good silk print tie in vibrant colors with a classic pattern that has become new again. This is that tie. Large paisleys in bright red and olive green on a dark red ground. Similar to current Drake patterns as seen in the Ben Silver catalog. Made in England, not sure who by, but the “PS” logo makes me think it might be Paul Salgo (no, not Paul Smith). You know where you are with this tie. You’re in the right. 57.5” long by just under 3.75” at widest. $23 shipped in US, $29 shipped internationally.












Here, a summery yet conservative silk twill tie. There’s a playfulness in the pattern from the Kelly green oblique diamonds with offwhite centers that are printed on a navy ground. Playful, but the proportions are discreet enough not to be loud. Self keeper. Made in England for Maus & Hoffman, haven’t tracked down who by. Seize the day and this tie. 3 5/8” at widest by 58” long. $23 shipped in US, $29 shipped internationally.













Extraordinary bright red divan design real Viyella tie made in England by Michelson’s. They don’t make them like this any more, largely because those two brands are just defunct names. Michelson’s was the parent company of Holliday & Brown when the two were acquired by the silk weavers Mantero of Como about ten years ago. Like H&B it had made ties for a number of well-known outfitters and haberdashers, but this is a bit of a splashy departure. The pattern is crisp and clear, the interlining thin enough to tie a normal knot (always a concern with wool ties). Being real Viyella woven in Scotland, the material is a proprietary 55% wool 45% cotton mix. Hand is soft but not limp. Just 3” at widest by 54” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.








Another collector’s piece tie – an ancient “Thistlebud” unlined woven silk tie made by Budd of Piccadilly, bespoke shirtmakers. This is truly an oddity; I wonder if this is what was meant when tiemakers try to convince us that old ties were made of a single piece of silk folded in on itself because this is completely unlined and untipped and kind of thin. It is of silvery white silk with silver woven thistles and buds, I guess. I acquired it out of curiosity and five years later am selling it on because I just don’t think I’ll wear it again and another collector may be curious to own it. Note the ribbing and stitching at the tips. Because it’s unlined, it may be suitable for experimenting with the more complicated knots in the Yong Mao/Thomas Fink The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie book, which is what I did. 3.5” at widest by 52” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.












Yet another piece of tailoring history – slim tie made in England by Dare & Dolphin, shirt and tie makers of Piccadilly, celebrated by Apparel Arts (yes, the Apparel Arts that those knowledgeable departed members used to talk about) as one of the very best haberdashers in London. Sober and CBD silk twill with concentric blue and green medallion and lozenge prints on burgundy ground. I’ve realized it’s a bit too soporific for me but may be of interest to another person out there who wishes to wear it (sincerely or ironically) or wants to add to his collection. 2¾” at widest by 55” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.










Daft Kilgour, French & Stanbury silk tie with oversized printed pheasant motif. From the materials tag, I think it is by David Evans, but I can’t confirm. Pheasants in green and dark red on navy ground. Only mad dogs, Englishmen, and discerning SFers would wear this. So British Alan Flusser and FNB must have procreated to generate it. Made in England. This tie appears to have been narrowed at some point in its life, but this is not apparent from the front of the tie or when worn. 3.25” wide by 58.5”. $24 $19 $15 shipped in US, $30 $25 $21 shipped internationally.


















Another tie, I think it’s made by David Evans as well from the made in label as I’ve seen it on other David Evans stuff, but I’m not certain. Vaguely psychedelic printed silk design in blues, greens and red (which predominates). Made in England. 3¾” at widest by 54” long. $24 shipped in US, $30 shipped internationally.












Phenomenal Dege & Skinner of Savile Row silk tie. This fantastic tie is both conservative in pattern, featuring a navy weave with alternating patterns of four self squares and four colored squares, and subtly extravagant, since those four colored squares are bright red, orange, green and yellow. Not a braying City Boy tie, more a discreet, iGent-who-has-evolved tie (MBreinin, I’m looking at you): the playfulness is still there in these atavistic colors reminiscent of childhood toys, but it’s couched in the undulations of a subtle weave with great surface interest. Acquire the missing link to British style from the unimpeachable Savile Row tailors who are both military tailors to the Queen and the favored tailors of the Omani camel piper corps. Made in England. 3¾” at widest by 57” long. $34 shipped in US, $40 shipped internationally.














Best of British tiemakers… Holliday & Brown, Drakes, Charles Hill and Cravats:
I’m culling out a number of my ties, some too CBD, others not CBD enough, many private label, from my favorite British makers… their clients were fickle and switched around (it’s astonishing how many people H&B made for at some point, rather like EG with private label shoes) until most raced to the bottom and hung them out to dry, with the result that Charles Hill and Holliday & Brown are now either dormant or defunct (H&B’s web address now just forward to the site of their owner, Italian silk weaver Mantero; Charles Hill left survivors at Seaman & Spearm and T&A but as a company it seems gone, gone, gone…). I’ve seen brands ping-pong among all of the makers named above, with Cravats as a bit of a dark horse. It along with its affiliate the shirtmaker Cleeve of London were purchased last year by Rayner & Sturges, itself owned by the shop Alexander Boyd, with guarantees production would continue – I’ve even seen some Cravats in the US market under a new label.


Refreshingly CBD tie by Drake’s. Red and tan paisley with white blossom print on navy silk twill ground. Hand made in England for Carroll & Co. of Beverly Hills. Self keeper tacked at sides. 3 5/8” wide by 58” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.






Drake’s paisley/divan design in dark green, navy and burgundy with cream. Thick silk twill and a pattern with more depth and detail every time I look at it. Self keeper. Subtle, certain to grow on you. Something to ponder like a Zen koan: this Drake’s tie has tags for both Drake’s and Charles Hill, which is a two-headed chicken like aberration. AlanC and I did once discover that the two companies were once affiliated, but I’ve never seen a tie with both a Drake’s makers tag and a Charles Hill “Handmade in England” label (with the little “CH”). Twice the goodness in one tie? 3.5” by 57”. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.












Charles Hill printed silk twill tie. Green ground with red and blue ovals and tiny paisley ovals/lozenges. The silk has a wonderfully soft, powdery feel although I can’t commit to saying it’s madder. The heathery mix of colors is similar to such prints, though. Self keeper. Hand made in England for the French cashmere shop Hobbs. 3.25” by 57”. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.












Bronze Charles Hill heavy woven silk tie with alternating sky and navy woven squares pattern. Deep brownish bronze ground, slightly ribbed for a faille effect. Hand made in England by the sister makers to Turnbull & Asser. Self keeper tacked on the sides and stitched into the center seam. 57” by 3.75” at widest. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.












Yellow silk twill Charles Hill tie with variable width stripe overcheck in white, light blue, dark blue and green. Unusual pattern. Self keeper tacked on the sides and stitched into the center seam. 57” by 3.75” at widest. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.














Cravats of London dark blue silk tie with woven dot and check pattern. Great texture and heft. Despite being solid color, the pattern gives the tie lots of depth and surface interest as the check weave catches the light. Hand made in England under the brand Macnaughtens. “Cravats of London” maker’s name is woven into the tipping. A classic sober British tie with more than meets the eye. 58” by just under 3.75” at widest. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.












Sambrook Witting blue and green small paisley on burgundy wool challis tie. The wool makes this subtle and business-friendly design interesting. The print and colors are crisp enough and the wool twill fine enough to make this look like a deeply textured silk. Made in England for Boggi. The print is discreet enough to be CBD yet the motifs surprisingly are very current – paisleys are suddenly hot again. Harrumph. 3.5” at widest by 56” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.












Sambrook Witting paisley silk print tie: CBD red and old gold paisleys outlined in green on dark navy silk twill ground. Very soft feel with surprising body – does that make it the Kelly Brook of ties? Perhaps I overstate the case, but it’s safe to say that when Italians think of the British look they aspired to and improved on, they were thinking of and looking for a tie like this, an ur-tie, a srs sober tie for srs sober style. Srsly. 3.25” at widest by 56” long. Made in England. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.










Royal blue faille Holliday & Brown tie with woven abstract red flowers/clovers. Sumptuous. Self keeper. Tipped in navy blue silk. The flowers or clovers are stylized enough to look like clubs from a suit of cards. 3.5” at widest by 59” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.










Classic Holliday & Brown heavy silk repp navy tie with broad forest green stripes outlined in black. Hand made in England in H&B’s last gasp, tipped in dark blue silk. The ribbing of the repp silk makes the tie almost iridescent, as well as really soft and frankly pretty sensual to touch. . 3.5” at widest by 59” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.








Heavy woven silk Holliday & Brown tie proving that the British could hold their own with the best of Italy for tie awesomeness (spoo factor) and CBDness (Mantonian quotient). Close-set navy four-pointed flower weave with goldenrod centers on sky blue ground. A thousand golden centers wink at you. Self keeper. Tipped in navy silk and hand made in England. 4” at widest by 58.5” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.












Wonderfully classic Holliday & Brown blue paisley print tie hand made in England. Small blue paisleys with green, red and tan accents on a darker blue silk twill ground. Wonderful dry hand. Tipped in burgundy silk. A tie that knows where it’s at. 3.75” at widest by 56” long. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.











Classic English woven pattern silk tie hand made in England by Holliday & Brown for the lamented Lord’s of the Burlington Arcade. Concentric squares of navy and silver with small red diamonds on a navy ground. Self keeper. 3 3/8” by 58.5”. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.










Pale gold woven silk Holliday & Brown tie outlined in tiny sky diamonds. The almost imperceptible outline catches the light, giving the tie a shimmer that makes the squares really stand out. As with the other H&Bs, this is extremely soft to the touch and full of those sober saving graces. Self keeper tacked at the sides. Tipped in navy silk. Hand made in England. 3 5/8” by 59”. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.


















Olive silk twill print Holliday & Brown tie with abstract motifs in brick red and light tan. Looks like something that could have inspired “Special re-editions” like the one below. From the label I’m guessing it comes from the 1960s-1970s period that some of the re-editions sampled. Hand made in England, and to those who are blind partisans of handwork I point out that I just noticed that the hand slip stitch was starting to open up on the back end of the tie (see picture). It’s easy enough to repair and will not show when worn, but I thus offer this for a discount. 4 1/8” wide by 53” long. $15 shipped in US, $22 shipped internationally.










Sometimes daring experiments don’t pay off: Holliday & Brown special re-edition silk print tie featuring a reissued pattern from their copious archives. Hand made in Italy, violent tropical greens and magentas. Self-tipped and self keeper. Definitely a tie that draws attention. Fell out of rotation pretty quick, but maybe it’s your bag. 3 3/8” by 58”. $18 shipped in US, $24 shipped internationally.















New with tag Holliday & Brown heavy woven silk tie made for Hilditch & Key of Jermyn Street. H&B used to make all the ties for H&K; at some point they moved to making only those in the “Hand Made Fine Silk Collection.” This is one of the last, a wonderfully soft silk weave of light blue and navy blue ovals on a silver-white ribbed silk ground. Self keeper tacked on the sides and folded and stitched into the seam. Extremely well made, extremely sober, perfect wintry colors for the weather ahead, stuffs a stocking well… 3.5” wide by 58”. $40 shipped in US, $46 shipped internationally.













Harvie and Hudson enamel on base metal toggle-backed cufflinks. Beautiful shade of lilac enamel on fronts. Metal is base metal, there is something stamped on the inside but I can’t get a good look at it. Purchased from Harvie and Hudson on Jermyn Street but not worn much, so I’m selling them on. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally








Cartier 18K gold Trinity wraparound or "stirrup" cufflinks in rose, white and yellow gold. Absolutely stunning. Hallmarked and signed. According to antique sellers online selling the same model, these are a rare design that hasn't been produced in decades. I don't know about that because these look basically new. I do know that these are a beautiful example of the wraparound design, which Cartier is credited with inventing, and that the Trinity motif of interlocking rings was a favorite of royal nincompoop and proto-iGent the Dook of Windsor on jewelry purchased for Wallis Simpson. These links open in the center, as shown in the pictures. They are generously sized and measure approximately one full inch across at widest point. I note that I may list these concurrently on ebay and may take them down if they do sell on that venue. I'm seeing them selling on estate jewelry sites for $3900- $4100. I'd imagine Cartier wants considerably more for them new. I'd like to sell them for $2500 firm, shipped anywhere in the world. Please note my customs/duties language at the bottom of this post if you are considering purchasing from abroad.



















Hallmarks for each link: “750” inside a small polygon on each link, as pictured below:











SOLD ITEMS:

SOLD Daks turquoise woven silk faille with white triple beaded stripe and fleur-de-lys coat of arms. Intricate pattern. Made in France – possibly by Breuer, I have to do my due diligence on that. Good to wear with some Arnys for that noblesse déchue look gdl hates so much. A nice memo of the defunct retailer which gave us the “Daks tops” we love on suit pants. 3 7/8” wide by 57”. $24 shipped in US, $30 shipped internationally.



sold Very “vintage” Knize skinny tie. Large black square print on bumblebee yellow, reminiscent of the midcentury “Charvet prints” mentioned by Alan Flusser in Dressing teh Man. An impressive piece for a collector or completist like Spoo, the new RJvoxxx of the forvm, such as it is. Self keeper tacked on the sides. As befits a tie from this period, very lightly lined. The classic “Knize” logo is woven into the tipping, but “Knize” is also printed on the tail. I’m going to guess this tie is from the time when Knize, which made tailcoats for Marlene Dietrich, had shops in New York, Paris and Palm Beach. Now it is just a shop on the Graben falling into sleepy abandonment, and perhaps that is its charm. You won’t see anything like it. I still miss my Knize cashmere cap. 2 ¾” at widest by approx. 54” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.











SOLD Charles Hill woven tie with pattern of navy paisleys on ribbed forest green ground. Sober colors combine to make a standout and luminous visual effect. Hand made in England for Bardelli, the best classic men’s clothing shop in Milan. Charles Hill was once affiliated with Turnbull & Asser and the ties are made to about the same standard, often with the same esthetic. 3 1/8” by 58”. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.



SOLD Never worn Kent Wang cotton pocket square: fine gauge cotton with fern jacquard and contrasting edge. I never got around to wearing this Wang, and decided to pass it on. Hand made in the US. 11.5 on a side. $17 shipped in US, $23 shipped internationally.



SOLD Larter dress set featuring two double-sided cufflinks and three dress shirt studs, all in smoke mother of pearl and rolled gold. Rolled gold is a synonym for gold-plated. The set is on a card in its Larter box. The card comes out to reveal a shallow tray beneath it, and as pictured, the back of the card suggests the owner use the tray to contain other pieces of jewelry. The studs feature Larter’s patented mechanism where one end can be pressed into the other in order to insert the backs through a buttonhole. I’ve owned this for some years and never actually used it, e-friends know I now have no call to. Smoke mother of pearl is one alternative to onyx for black tie – I like it a lot since it has a lot of depth and other tones to it. Larter was a legendary jeweler which made luxury jewelry as well as more affordable pieces. At one time it made cufflinks for Sulka, prior to Trianon allegedly taking over that role. The box itself is in fair shape – the velour on the stays that hold the links in place on the card is coming off, but that’s not a huge issue. The links and studs themselves are in great shape and work fine. Pricing on these varies wildly, I saw some bright fellow on ebay trying to sell a set for $800 (still gold plate), but I think $65 shipped in the US, $71 internationally is a more fair price.











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SOLD $250 Hilditch & Key Jermyn St French-cuff white and blue stripe shirt. Classic spread collar and all the features that make H&K the Platonic ideal of a Jermyn St shirt (RTW, anyway): moderate spread, EXCELLENT cotton with a great hand and durability, classic pattern, pattern matching at all possible joins, mother of pearl buttons, reinforced pentagonal gusset, single needle stitching, rounded corner double cuffs so as not to catch on your jacket sleeve, moderate allowances of cloth inside the cuff and the shoulder to allow for lengthening of the sleeve, and the Jermyn St RTW fit, which is to say roomy (but not like BB). 15.5” neck, 32.5” sleeves. Used gently, well cared for… the great thing about a good shirt is that it gets better with age and wear until even in decrepitude it is revered… like a former president. This shirt is in great shape; I realized I just wasn’t wearing it much because I wasn’t feeling the pattern. $35 shipped in US, $45 shipped internationally.




SOLD Harvie & Hudson Jermyn St French-cuff white with yellow and blue check shirt. Classic spread collar, square-ended double cuffs, mother of pearl buttons; made in UK for the late, great Best of British Shirts website a former forum member ran. Jermyn St RTW fit, which is to say roomy (but not like BB). 15” neck, 32.5” sleeves. Worn very few times, well cared for… the great thing about a good shirt is that it gets better with age and wear until even in decrepitude it is revered… like a former president. This shirt is in great shape; I realized I just wasn’t wearing it much because I wasn’t feeling the pattern. $35 shipped in US, $45 shipped internationally.




SOLD Striking silver concentric squares on black ground heavy silk woven tie by Claude Bonucci, the legendary French Riviera tailor whose shop even features in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels, even though Caine was dressed by Hayward. More interestingly, when the National Federation of Master Tailors of France took out a two-page ad in Monsieur magazine’s special edition on bespoke to remind readers of the true – legally defined (in France) -- meaning of bespoke, they listed only 11 “Tailors of Quality,” of which Bonucci was one of only two tailors not located in the immediate area of Paris. Self keeper tacked at sides and into center seam. The blue twill tipping features the words “masculin latin” woven into the tip on the backside of the blade. This tie is definitely masculine. Made in Italy. I note a tiny slub at the top of the tie, as pictured – it’s imperceptible. 3 3/8” at widest by 55” long. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.



SOLD Lochcarron fringed wool tweed tie – a very old-school look. I have an H&B (no HBI) made for Barneys with the same detailing in my favorite tie thread (q.v.). Unlike that tie, this is made with Harris yarn, and tagged “Spun in Harris and Lewis” – the islands where the genuine Harris tweed comes from. I don’t see the Harris Tweed orb on this tie, so I don’t know if it is a slihtgly different designation or if they just don’t mark ties with it. In any case, this tie has the wonderful mixed colors and dry hand of Harris tweed but in a somewhat unusual stripe pattern (as opposed to the herringbones most of us imagine on Harris tweed): tans and oatmeals, dark blues and burgundies, and the sort of rust that makes one thing of Scotch rather than old can openers. 58” long by just under 3.25” at widest. [ $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.



SOLD RAWR! Kent Wang dragon image pocket square. Speaks for itself. Heavy silk. I never got around to wearing this Wang, and decided to pass it on. Hand made in the US. 11.5 on a side. $17 shipped in US, $23 shipped internationally.




SOLD Anderson & Sheppard handmade silk tie. A sober print of red medallions and blue crosses on a ground of discreet taupe with a slight sheen and a pleasantly soft hand. Wear the choice of real bigtimers (Concordia, whnay., Manton, lasbar) rather than the dregs of Internet punter pretenders who are left on this forum. For some reason the tipping at on the back of the blade displays the logo “Alvaro” – not sure who or what this is and Google has not been helpful. I know that A&S have used a variety of tie makers over the years, including Drakes and H&B as well as others, and from the address on the label this tie dates from before A&S’ move to Old Burlington Street in 2005-2006. 3.25” at widest and 57” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 internationally.



SOLD Andrea Conte acid green faille tie. Self tipped and self keeper tacked at sides and stitched into the center seam. Very soft hand, an eye-catching color for spring. 3 7/8” at widest and approx. 57.5” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.




SOLD Sambrook Witting brown wool challis tie. I’d say about 47% cacao if pressed. A light wool twill with a CBD print of red paisleys outlined in white. Untipped in order to avoid extra bulk (which otherwise can be a problem knotting wool or knitted ties), very light interlining; because it is untipped the ends are stitched down. Sambrook Witting and Holliday & Brown were the two companies whose silks Marinella used to pride itself on using not so long ago. So own a piece of vintage history. Made in England. 56” by just over 3” at widest. $22 shipped in US, $28 shipped internationally.



SOLD Here, a simple navy and white diagonal stripe tie on gold ground tie. Silk repp. Self tipped and self keeper tacked at sides and stitched into the center seam. Very soft hand, deep colors in a winning palette. 4” at widest and approx. 57.5” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.



SOLD Simon Ackerman 100% cashmere black and white shepherd’s check sportcoat. Very Teh Rake! Ackerman founded Chester Barrie and d’Avenza; this garment appears to be made up to the same standard as the old Chester Barrie, which had some of the best handwork on any garments, RTW or bespoke (see jefferyd’s blog for more information). Single-breasted, notch lapel, double vents, straight flap pockets. I note that there is a small area where the lining is coming unstitched at the top of one of the vents; it’s not visible when worn and would be easy to fix – I attach a picture below. I own a number of cashmere sportcoats, including other Chester Barrie, and the cashmere on this is among the softest of them all. Dashing and wonderful. The sleeves have sham buttons but have been designed to allow for working buttonholes to be cut – once you determine your appropriate sleeve length, just like in bespoke. It even has the pit guards that old bespoke sometimes has (unstained). Why am I selling it? I bought it thinking I’d wear it but find that the fit isn’t what I thought it would be. It’s definitely not a “43 R slim” as is discreetly handwritten on a tiny tag inside a pocket (see picture); I’d say it’s closer to a 40 R or a 40 L, certainly no larger in chest size. I thus am selling it on for the equivalent of my costs. Please see my measurements of the coat for better reference:

Length from bottom of collar: 31”

Length from shoulder to shoulder: 17 7/8”

Length across armpits: 23” (this is from the farthest point of the armpit seam to the other armpit seam)

Sleeve length from shoulder seam: 24.5”

$85 shipped in US, $120 shipped internationally.




















SOLD Tie by Bises, the Roman shop celebrated by the American Alan Flusser as “the most extraordinary collection of piece goods in the world,” including special silks that even back in 1981 were selling for $30 a yard. This silk print is pretty special – detailed florals and paisleys in intricate harmonies of color (chiefly turquoises and greens on a background of ochres, reds and burgundies) which look almost like watercolors. Self keeper tacked at the sides. 3 3/8” at widest by 54” long. $17 shipped in US, $23 shipped internationally.




SOLD Gorgeous Charles Hill silks handmade navy silk woven tie with small sky blue dot pattern on a tonal nay and black diagonal woven herringbone pattern. Great hand.; the herringbone pattern makes it sensuous even to hold. Sober pattern in an updated contemporary width; substantial enough for quality but sleek enough so that you won’t be wearing a naff fist-size tie know – unless you want to. Self keeper tacked on the sides and stitched into the center seam. Tipped in iridescent violet à la RJ and made for the best men’s shop in Milan. 57” by 3 3/8” at widest. $28 shipped in US, $34 shipped internationally.


SOLD Navy and sky blue woven stripe Petronius tie. Alternating thin and broad stripes of sky blue. Unusually, this tie has raised navy borders outlining each of the broad sky blue stripes. True to the Petronius ethic, the sky blue is muted and not bright. Beautifully hand slipped. Self keeper tacked at sides and stitched into center seam. Hand made in Italy by an Inner Circle-approved tiemaker because Marinella is just so common. 58” long by 3.75” at widest. . $40 shipped in US, $46 shipped internationally.

SOLD Gold and light blue-grey Andrea Conte woven silk tie. The pattern of tiny horizontal and vertical rectangles is outlined in pale grey for a subtle and discreet sheen. Absolutely correct and great for early spring. Self tipped and self keeper tacked at sides and stitched into the center seam. 3 15/16” at widest by 59” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.



SOLD Red and blue woven pattern Calabrese tie. 3” by 59” $20 $15 shipped in US, $26 $21 shipped internationally.



SOLD Wonderful Shetland wool tie woven in Scotland. Sandy tans, heathered greens, foggy greys make this the tie equivalent of a tumbler of Laphroaig with just a solitary fragment of ice. A simple stripe pattern, made for a shop in Paris back when the French worshiped what they thought of as British style in a way peculiarly their own. 3/25” wide by 55.5” long. $26 shipped in US, $32 shipped internationally.



SOLD Islay Woollen Mill pure new wool tweed tie, woven on the Hebridean isle of Islay. Light blue, brick red and grey heathered stripe pattern. A wonderful cool weather tie, looking at it puts one in mind of Islay malts and a roaring fire. 3.25” at widest by 54.5” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.



SOLD Wool tie hand made in England by Paul Salgo. Tiny burgundy flowers with tan centres in navy circles on an olive wool twill ground. Self keeper tacked on the sides. Crisp dry hand. Just under 3½” at widest by 59” long. $25 shipped in US, $31 shipped internationally.



SOLD Holliday & Brown paisleys (green, light blue, red and yellow) on blue ground tie. Slim. Made for a men’s shop in Vienna. 3.25” x 56”. $22 $15 shipped in US, $28 $21 shipped internationally.



SOLD Beautiful Larusmiani Milano gold woven silk tie handmade in Italy. The weave is patterned with repeating vertical and horizontal hexagons. A sunny color for a bright, remarkable tie. Hard to resist a smile each time you put it on. Larusmiani is one of the best classic men’s shops in Milan, along with Bardelli and Tincati. Self keeper tacked at sides and stitched into the center seam. 3.75” at widest and approx. 58” long. $30 shipped in US, $36 shipped internationally.








PLEASE NOTE:

No returns. I reserve the right to refuse sale on reasonable grounds. Insurance is extra and it is the buyer's responsibility to request and pay for insurance. I am not responsible for customs, CITES or related fees and delays and will not lie on customs forms for you. I will make every effort to ship by the Saturday following your order.

None of my stuff has been urinated on by Fuuma. However, that can be arranged for additional shipping to Montreal and back.
post #2 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
None of my stuff has been urinated on by Fuuma. However, that can be arranged for additional shipping to Montreal and back.[/color]
How about his cats?
post #3 of 19
PM sent
post #4 of 19
a very well done thread with nice descriptions
post #5 of 19
PM sent on Hilditch & Key Sea Island cotton socks made in England by Pantherella.
post #6 of 19
I'll buy the race car tie....pm sent
post #7 of 19
Great descriptions and interesting items/ties. Love it!
post #8 of 19
Thread Starter 
Additions Sunday 1/23 -- Tanner Krolle briefcase, Harrisons of Edinburgh cashmere and Millionaire Cashmere tie, Holliday & Brown, Battistoni, Nervesa and other ties!
post #9 of 19
The Tanner Krolle bridle hide, at least in burgundy, is substantially more scratch resistant than SAB. The stitching around the edges is also thicker and less likely to tear. It's a more solid piece.

Steven
post #10 of 19
Wonderful selection of ties
post #11 of 19
Great selection of ties, but more importantly... I actually enjoyed reading through your entire post. Very well done!

Free bump for you
post #12 of 19
Bump just cause RJ is the man. Buy his stuff!
post #13 of 19
Thread Starter 
Bump for additions made when I moved images to Photobucket; more items/pictures coming.
post #14 of 19
Damn, that B/W jacket is really, really tempting.
post #15 of 19
bump for a great seller and one of the few remaining true gentlemen
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Styleforum › Forums › Archives › Buying and Selling (Archive) › FS: Men's Clothing (Archive) › 3/19! MOAR of RJman's H&B,wool ties,Petronius,Stefano Ricci Ballantyne,Arnys!