After I had several of my suits pressed a few times at the cleaners (not cleaned, just pressed), I noticed that my lapels were getting that dreaded "pressed down" look -- you know, lacking the nice roll. These suits were mid-quality -- half-fused, with floating canvas in the lapels, but not pad-stitched like an Oxxford. I figured these suits had seen their better days. But I was messing around with an iron and came up with good technique to get the roll back -- and even create a roll in a Jones NYC suit I have but have never worn that seemed to come OTR with non-rolling lapels. What I did was fill the iron up with water and put it on steam setting, which is pretty high heat. I unfolded the lapels and ironed what is normally the "underside" of the lapel (you know, the side that ends up laying on your chest). This removed any remnants of "pressing" the lapel down (which I suspect the cleaners did). The natural roll came back, and I put on the jacket while it was still moist so the lapels would get used to my body. If I noticed any excess rolling, I just took the iron and lightly rubbed it over the lapels while I was wearing the jacket. I swear that my jackets look BRAND NEW now. I don't know if I created this technique, but I thought I'd share it. This technique seems to work particularly well on thrift store suits too -- I tried it on two thrift stores buys as well. By the way, just got my Ebay shipment in today -- an Oxxford Cummings, navy blue with subtle narrow light blue pinstripe. Jeez. Unbelieveable construction. The shoulders are a dab narrower than I'm used to, but I think it just looks younger. But, amazingly, after steaming it and wearing it for about 20 minutes, I swear th shoulders stretched out little bit. The thing honestly started molding to my body. I'll try to send pics to get your opinions.
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4/5/04 at 7:12pm