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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 55

post #811 of 4339

White's factory very kindly sent me four leather samples (all black) to consider:  CXL, Oil Tan ("Smooth" I gather), Dress, and Calfskin.  Obviously, they are all great leathers. I have to say that I can see the concern about CXL stretching; the four inch sample I have stretches readily with just a little pulling, much more than the other ones.  But of course it is not sewn into a boot with support, lining, etc.  The calf seems too thin and shiny for boots for me, which I pretty much already knew.  The Dress seems very nice, as everyone says.  The Oil Tan is clearly the thickest of all -- really a nice, durable feel to it.

 

The CXL is the only one of the samples that has a brown leather back; all the others are black on both sides.  I like the contrasting brown, which shows up on edges of the boot I notice in pictures of CXL.

 

So, this gives me more to go on, though I still have lots of thinking to do.  Wondering about mixing leathers -- maybe Black Oil Tan for the body of the boot, with CXL or Dress for toe cap and backstay, or something like that.  Don't want to get too fancy with my first pair though....

post #812 of 4339
^ Can you post pics of the samples plz?
post #813 of 4339

the CXL wont stretch as readily as the samples did.  My samples were really stretchy but my boots are nowhere near as stretchy.  If that makes sense...

 

That said, I found the CXL to have more character than the other dress leathers I was also considering.  Not to say they are bad, in fact they are excellent, but they just seemed more basic and run of the mill.  The cxl took on characteristics, scratches, and what not. 

post #814 of 4339
Thread Starter 
To post about sizing using the old school method of tracing your foot and sending it via paper to whites....

I did that with my first pair of Semi Dress boots I had ordered, and send it via snail-mail.
Boots ended up fitting better than any other boot or shoe I've ever owned.

Now, the stamp on the inside of the boot read 10.5D, so I had Kyle and Bakers make my second pair in the standard 10.5 according to Whites.
I'll keep people posted when the boots come in as to how they fit.

Looking forward to my natural chromexcel boots.

Anybody got any advise on letting the natural chromexcel leather age properly into a nice patina?
I've been using Obenaufs on my Semi Dress and it works great, But I'm afraid it would darken the narual color too much for my liking.
Is there anything special the Natural Chromexcel would need to look great with age without taking away its soft tone?
post #815 of 4339
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post

The width is related to the length at least as far as dimensions are concerned so yes if you size down a whole size like what's commonly done with the 1Ks you effectively narrow it as well. Now boots that can be had with different widths in any particular size is a whole 'nother animal. For the most part people make the mistake of buying boots like these in a size that is to small. Comparing how they feel to say a dress shoe is a mistake. A properly fit boot feels much different than a shoe or sneaker. I like the fact that this company has you take dimensions of your feet and then recommends a size or builds them to spec. Reminds me of Limmer boots which IMO is one of the best mountaineering boots money can buy.
well, it is [that] other animal. on Custom White's you can order the width from AA= narrowest to FF= widest. also, the choice of last & leather will mosdef affect right sizing..

i take a 9E Smoke Jumper on their smooth or rough-out leather, but would have to go 9D on CXL
however, on Semi Dress [w/c have different types of semidress lasts], i take 8.5D on the "swing" last & prolly 8.5C on CXL.
post #816 of 4339
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whacky View Post

To post about sizing using the old school method of tracing your foot and sending it via paper to whites....
I did that with my first pair of Semi Dress boots I had ordered, and send it via snail-mail.
Boots ended up fitting better than any other boot or shoe I've ever owned.
Now, the stamp on the inside of the boot read 10.5D, so I had Kyle and Bakers make my second pair in the standard 10.5 according to Whites.
I'll keep people posted when the boots come in as to how they fit.
Looking forward to my natural chromexcel boots.
Anybody got any advise on letting the natural chromexcel leather age properly into a nice patina?
I've been using Obenaufs on my Semi Dress and it works great, But I'm afraid it would darken the narual color too much for my liking.
Is there anything special the Natural Chromexcel would need to look great with age without taking away its soft tone?

i would just let them be for a while.  Hollows has a pair, so maybe he can shed some light.  I have a pair of natural cxl oak streets that I traded for.  When i got them, they were pretty dry. I gave them a light obenauf's, and put some shoe trees in for two days.  Fixed them right up.  Since then, they have darkened naturally considerably.  So, unless they arrive really dry, just let them be natural, and after a couple months, then hit them with the obenaufs.  Thats what I would do at least.  

post #817 of 4339
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzyearlobes View Post


can you post a pic of the entire boot, off your foot?  I knew it was two tone, but  didnt know it was tri-tone!  Although now that I look, I guess I t is.  Interesting combo, the colors offset just enough to be different, but at first glance they all blend. 

 

post #818 of 4339
Quote:
Originally Posted by bl@ster View Post

^ Can you post pics of the samples plz?


I'll see if I can -- I don't do much digital photography, but I'll try.  Not sure how much will be shown with the four inch samples though.  The real benefit is being able to feel them.  There are clear differences in thickness and texture.  From thick to thin, they go:  Oil Tan (very thick), Chromexcel (slightly less thick, and very supple), Dress (less thick than CXL, but stiffer) [[Don't think I am not catching the double entendres here!]], and Calfskin (thinnest and shiniest of all).

 

As a couple of people have said, I think the CXL would be less stretchy in boot form, but I have to admit that feeling it slowed down my enthusiasm for it a bit.  It looks and feels great in every other way though.

 

Here's a heel/sole question:  Most pictures where there is a full length sole (as opposed to 'commando' half sole), the rubber part of the sole that goes through the heel seems pretty wide, maybe a quarter inch or so.  But I have seen an occasional picture where that black rubber part in the sole is much thinner, seems like an 8th inch or less.  Can anyone say what that sole is with the thinner heel presence?  I asked White's, but they misunderstood the question I think; and I have asked them so much that I didn't want to keep bugging them.

 

Thanks.

post #819 of 4339

Oh, and one more question.  I think I like the turned-up, or 'sprung,' toe of the 461 last -- gives it that old 1940s shape, kinda like the Viberg Service Boot.  But I rarely see mention or pictures of it here on a Semi-Dress. Can anyone testify to it for looks and feel, or better yet post a picture?

post #820 of 4339
Be very careful with the not treating them when you get them thing. That's the fastest way to end up with needless problems. I have written extensively about this in the 1K threads.
post #821 of 4339
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

Here's a heel/sole question:  Most pictures where there is a full length sole (as opposed to 'commando' half sole), the rubber part of the sole that goes through the heel seems pretty wide, maybe a quarter inch or so.  But I have seen an occasional picture where that black rubber part in the sole is much thinner, seems like an 8th inch or less.  Can anyone say what that sole is with the thinner heel presence?  I asked White's, but they misunderstood the question I think; and I have asked them so much that I didn't want to keep bugging them.

What you are looking at is the difference between the different Vibram sole options.
The one with the smaller height in the sole is the Vibram 269 sole. All the other Vibram options have a full thickness heel portion.
The 269 profile is shaved slightly right under the arch, and therefore has a smaller height in the heel, but has the normal thickness under the area by the ball of the foot.
Take a look at the pictures and compare for yourself.
Hope that helps.
post #822 of 4339
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whacky View Post


What you are looking at is the difference between the different Vibram sole options.
The one with the smaller height in the sole is the Vibram 269 sole. All the other Vibram options have a full thickness heel portion.
The 269 profile is shaved slightly right under the arch, and therefore has a smaller height in the heel, but has the normal thickness under the area by the ball of the foot.
Take a look at the pictures and compare for yourself.
Hope that helps.


Yes, just what I needed to know -- thanks. 

 

Now, can anyone testify to how the Vibram 269 wears?  Looks like it wouldn't give a ton of traction, but enough?  And long-lasting enough?

post #823 of 4339
Thread Starter 
Does anybody have any experience treating natural chromexcel with products such as Obenaufs, SnoSeal?
Perhaps on other boot makers, or other leather products like wallets, belts?

Just curious how much the color will darken, change.

I treated my Brown Dress White's SD with an ample coat of Obenaufs, and SnoSeal, then put them in my oven on 115 degrees for 10-15 minutes as soon as I got them.
Afterwards, I couldn't really notice the color change dramatically.
However, that leather is not chromexcel, it was darker, and the perceived color change was probably going to be minimal anyway.
post #824 of 4339

Obenauf's darkens the natural CXL significantly.  Over a period of 4-5 days it gradually lightens back up.  But also be aware that the natty CXL will darken over time on its own because of how light it is to begin with. 

post #825 of 4339
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post


Yes, just what I needed to know -- thanks. 

 

Now, can anyone testify to how the Vibram 269 wears?  Looks like it wouldn't give a ton of traction, but enough?  And long-lasting enough?

Damn well! Look at the heel wear, with almost no sole wear! Enough traction to climb a mountain I would say, but less than the lug soles -)

 

 

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