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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 527

post #7891 of 9406

bicks4 is a great conditioner but don't overdo it.  the arch ease is the basic foundation of the boot line you would have to order an oxford from them such as a hawthorn see my attachment. I put leather soles on to dress up but not nearly the arch.  also Nicks boots makes low arch models for the same price range but you might go nuts waiting 12 plus weeks minimum to get them. I have one pair off their stock shelves and love them.

post #7892 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeVooDoo View Post
 

Update: 

Day 3, and I am officially in the 'boots feel like hell' camp with the Arch ease.Some members seem to have a perfect fit from the very start, unfortunately that's not me.  After 3 days I'm giving my feet and boots a rest. I think the Arch ease is giving my feet indention's, just before the heal. Almost tempted to do the 'hot water in the boot and wear them till they dry' trick. I have read so many posts on this forum about how uncomfortable they were for about a month, and then they became the most comfortable pair of boots they have ever warn, that I'm going to keep up the routine and just wear them until they break in. 

 

THANKS!! for all of the post's on helping me and comments so far, this is a great forum!

 

 

 

Question

1. can you order White's without Arch ease? or even a step down on the arch ease?

 

2. Double socks is one suggestion I have read, any other suggestions other than getting them wet? (for example: wear them with tight laces vs. really loose laces, or heating up my feet and socks then wear and run in them?)

 

3. Bricks4, Since I want to keep my boot looking good as long possible, and don't have a single issue with the leather or how it feels (100% discomfort is from Arch Ease, everything else is perfect! Even the vibram and how flexible it was right out of the box makes it very ease to squat down and the tops of feet still very comfortable) So is Bricks4 a good way to protect the leather, without having the leather darken?

 

Thanks for the feed back.

 

(only been wearing them for 3 days and already have strangers commenting on the boots)

 

2. Some may think I am crazy, but I found that at the early stage of break-in, the thicker socks I wore, the more painful my feet were. It was because the heel drop was even more severe in thick socks. YMMV.

post #7893 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. burns View Post

taken a couple big hits from stocking carts while at work. i didn't feel anything but my boots sure did.


All three pairs of mine have similar battle scars.  Obenhauf's LP makes them far less noticeable,

post #7894 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeVooDoo View Post
 

Update: 

Day 3, and I am officially in the 'boots feel like hell' camp with the Arch ease.Some members seem to have a perfect fit from the very start, unfortunately that's not me.  After 3 days I'm giving my feet and boots a rest. I think the Arch ease is giving my feet indention's, just before the heal. Almost tempted to do the 'hot water in the boot and wear them till they dry' trick. I have read so many posts on this forum about how uncomfortable they were for about a month, and then they became the most comfortable pair of boots they have ever warn, that I'm going to keep up the routine and just wear them until they break in. 

 

THANKS!! for all of the post's on helping me and comments so far, this is a great forum!

 

 

 

Question

1. can you order White's without Arch ease? or even a step down on the arch ease?

 

2. Double socks is one suggestion I have read, any other suggestions other than getting them wet? (for example: wear them with tight laces vs. really loose laces, or heating up my feet and socks then wear and run in them?)

 

3. Bricks4, Since I want to keep my boot looking good as long possible, and don't have a single issue with the leather or how it feels (100% discomfort is from Arch Ease, everything else is perfect! Even the vibram and how flexible it was right out of the box makes it very ease to squat down and the tops of feet still very comfortable) So is Bricks4 a good way to protect the leather, without having the leather darken?

 

Thanks for the feed back.

 

(only been wearing them for 3 days and already have strangers commenting on the boots)

 

Don't do the "soak 'em and wear 'em trick"  You will destroy them.  That is right from White's CEO.  When I bought my Smoke Jumpers the arch support in the right boot was just as you describe.  It was real bad.  The salesman where I bought mine recommended a glue in spacer in the heel area.  It didn't take much.  They make them in different thicknesses.  I bought the thinnest one and got some "shoo goo" and glued them in the heel area.  Shazamm!! Problem solved.  The arch support was still quite noticeable but that "bite" on the outer edge of my right foot went away and all it took a a 1/16" "spacer he had right there on the shelf.  I put one in both boots and they are still there to this day.  I think one came loose at one time and I just cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol real good and glued it back in.  The arch ease in the SJ's is fine now but I prefer the lesser arch ease in the Classic Last I have on my CWB's and the arch support on the Swing Last SJs is perfect.  Better than the other two.  The Classic lasted CWB's almost seem to have no arch at all now that they are broken in while the Swing Lasted SJs I got about 6 months ago is dead on perfect for for me.  With the Swing Last the arch support wasn't as pronounced when they were new as it is now.  I know it sounds strange but it's true.  In my experience the arch became more pronounced as they have broken in with the Swing Last.  I love it and most probably will be ordering Swing Last on any other Whites I order down the road.  I DO like the Classic Last though.  Just enough arch support to feel it is there.

 

If you've only been wearing them for three days then I'd suggest the spacers in the heel and do nothing else but wear them.  My standard SJ's and my CWB's killed me for about 3-6 months before they really settled in but I didn't walk near as much in them as most people do since I drive for a living.  Still, even though I was sitting there I ended up having to retie them 3 or 4 times a day as they tightened up here or there.  It actually took about 6 months for the CWB's.  They were downright painful for a real long time but Brown Smooth/Lined probably had something to do with it.

 

I have Bick 4 that I use on the CXL uppers of my Swing Lasted SJ's but the lowers are Black Oil Finish so I use oil or LP on the lower part.  I do oil the CXL uppers from time to time as well and have LP'd them also.  I almost exclusively use oil or Obenhauf's LP on all 3 pair I own because my boots are constantly getting wet all winter long.  When I run out of Bick 4 I'll probably just stay with oil and LP.  I use oil when they've been dry like in the summer and LP once the winter sets in.  It just depends on how many wet/dry cycles they are suffering through as to what i use. through.  As for how often.  After I let them dry real good I just feel the leather.  If I can't feel any oiliness at all and they feel dry I either oil them or LP them.


Edited by trvlr472 - 1/17/16 at 7:39pm
post #7895 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by trvlr472 View Post


All three pairs of mine have similar battle scars.  Obenhauf's LP makes them far less noticeable,

yea, dabbed a little on the chunk that just got taken out of the right boot and it's blended in. the one on the left is a little worse than it looks. there's a bit that's kind of hanging on and might tear off over time but it'll all smooth out in the long run.

fit pic in good lighting from a few days ago
post #7896 of 9406

Here are the outsoles of my Semi Dress in CXL. I'm not trying to over baby them, but they look pretty beat up and the leather has stayed damp (in the darker spot) after two days inside and with some cedar around. Should I add a half sole of rubber up front? I want to wear the the heck out of them and get a great patina but I don't want to unknowingly damage them. Could this eventually seep through and make my socks wet? I am in Seattle, and the rain makes the sidewalks more gravelly and wet than most cities. I heard earlier not to worry about it, so i hit the streets in these the last three weeks for about 25-30 miles of walking. 

 

Thoughts? 

 

 

 

post #7897 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboon85 View Post
 

Here are the outsoles of my Semi Dress in CXL. I'm not trying to over baby them, but they look pretty beat up and the leather has stayed damp (in the darker spot) after two days inside and with some cedar around. Should I add a half sole of rubber up front? I want to wear the the heck out of them and get a great patina but I don't want to unknowingly damage them. Could this eventually seep through and make my socks wet? I am in Seattle, and the rain makes the sidewalks more gravelly and wet than most cities. I heard earlier not to worry about it, so i hit the streets in these the last three weeks for about 25-30 miles of walking. 

 

Thoughts? 

 

 

 

 

There are two main strategies:

 

1. Wear them as you are now, being careful to let them dry completely between outings on their sides.  (Peet boot driers are supposedly good for safely speeding up this process.)  With enough water, no matter whether you add rubber soles or not, they will eventually get soaked through to your socks if there is enough water around.  You may also find that you need to resole the boots sooner than you think you should...or you may not.  Then, when getting them resoled, decide if you would like some type of rubber sole added.

 

2.  Have "topies" added to them now and still be careful about letting the boots dry out completely between outings.  Most likely, the boots will go longer without needing new soles, but you will never know if you would have been happy with them with plain leather soles.

 

There seem to be guys who love topies and guys who hate them.  I am not enough of an expert to sort through the arguments one way and the other...I have had them put on some shoes and not others.  I am reluctant to wear nice leather-soled shoes in the rain without topies, but I might be crazy.  The topies don't seem to change the look of shoes much.  Supposedly they can change the balance of the footwear, if a bit of the leather soles isn't shaved off first, but, then again, you have already worn them down a little.  I had some Allen Edmonds shell Park Avenues with premium German leather soles that got wet one day and they have seemed softer (not in a good way) since then....but the worst scenario is just getting the footwear resoled.

 

As you can see, I'm kind of ambivalent.  That said, I bet I would get them topied if I were planning to wear them in the rain at all, but I also know that I baby my footwear too much...

 

I don't think you will go too far wrong either way.

post #7898 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whirling View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mboon85 View Post
 

Here are the outsoles of my Semi Dress in CXL. I'm not trying to over baby them, but they look pretty beat up and the leather has stayed damp (in the darker spot) after two days inside and with some cedar around. Should I add a half sole of rubber up front? I want to wear the the heck out of them and get a great patina but I don't want to unknowingly damage them. Could this eventually seep through and make my socks wet? I am in Seattle, and the rain makes the sidewalks more gravelly and wet than most cities. I heard earlier not to worry about it, so i hit the streets in these the last three weeks for about 25-30 miles of walking. 

 

Thoughts? 

 

 

 

 

There are two main strategies:

 

1. Wear them as you are now, being careful to let them dry completely between outings on their sides.  (Peet boot driers are supposedly good for safely speeding up this process.)  With enough water, no matter whether you add rubber soles or not, they will eventually get soaked through to your socks if there is enough water around.  You may also find that you need to resole the boots sooner than you think you should...or you may not.  Then, when getting them resoled, decide if you would like some type of rubber sole added.

 

2.  Have "topies" added to them now and still be careful about letting the boots dry out completely between outings.  Most likely, the boots will go longer without needing new soles, but you will never know if you would have been happy with them with plain leather soles.

 

There seem to be guys who love topies and guys who hate them.  I am not enough of an expert to sort through the arguments one way and the other...I have had them put on some shoes and not others.  I am reluctant to wear nice leather-soled shoes in the rain without topies, but I might be crazy.  The topies don't seem to change the look of shoes much.  Supposedly they can change the balance of the footwear, if a bit of the leather soles isn't shaved off first, but, then again, you have already worn them down a little.  I had some Allen Edmonds shell Park Avenues with premium German leather soles that got wet one day and they have seemed softer (not in a good way) since then....but the worst scenario is just getting the footwear resoled.

 

As you can see, I'm kind of ambivalent.  That said, I bet I would get them topied if I were planning to wear them in the rain at all, but I also know that I baby my footwear too much...

 

I don't think you will go too far wrong either way.


They haven't seen rain hard enough to get the leather along the top welt seam wet. And I don't think I would. I was just noticing what wet gravel did to the insoles.

Thanks for the input. I think Ill leave them be. You're saying worst case scenario is resoling? Sounds fine.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
post #7899 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboon85 View Post
 

Here are the outsoles of my Semi Dress in CXL. I'm not trying to over baby them, but they look pretty beat up and the leather has stayed damp (in the darker spot) after two days inside and with some cedar around. Should I add a half sole of rubber up front? I want to wear the the heck out of them and get a great patina but I don't want to unknowingly damage them. Could this eventually seep through and make my socks wet? I am in Seattle, and the rain makes the sidewalks more gravelly and wet than most cities. I heard earlier not to worry about it, so i hit the streets in these the last three weeks for about 25-30 miles of walking. 

 

Thoughts? 

 

 

 


Just my opinion but if I lived in Seattle there is no way you'd see me walking around in the winter with bare leather soles.  Or half soles for that matter.  My CWB's came with the 700 half sole and my boots see a LOT of moisture, then heat, then moisture, then heat all winter long.  The CWB's started developing cracks along the edges of the sole and on that little space of bare leather between the sole and heel.  I drenched them with LP and after a while sealed them with edge sealant.  It seems to have saved them but they will be getting a full rubber sole like the 430 when it comes time for a resole which isn't very far off now..  The cracks are still there on the bottom of the sole as well but haven't gotten any worse.  My standard SJ's in Black Rough out and my most recent pair of Swing Lasted SJ's with CXL Black uppers and Black Oil Finish lowers have no such problems because they have full rubber soles and I keep the edges sealed.  I never owned full leather shoes until I bought these three pairs over the last 2+ years so I learned the hard way.  Getting leather soaked or even wet with water and then drying it cycle after cycle causes cracks.  Maybe had I LP'd the soles and edges from the get-go this wouldn't have happened but I've read that LPing the edges is NOT a good idea due to it seeping into the sole and causing the glue to release.  That's the reason I didn't do it when they were new.  So far so good though.  I think I saved the CWB's.  At the very least I would get some edge sealant from Fiebings.  I use it fairly regularly these days.

Last but not least if you want your Whites to last you need more than one pair because you are supposed to "cycle" them.  Wearing the same pair every day especially in wet conditions will wear them out long before their time.  I wear a different pair every day except once in a while I'll wear the same pair for two or maybe even three days in a row but it's rare when I do that but I don't own a PEET Dryer.  Maybe I should get one.

post #7900 of 9406

Thanks for your thoughts. I think I will take them to a cobbler for a rubber sole. I'm not worried about altering the look of the boot too much but would worry about changing the angle or feel of the boot as it's perfection right now. The boots saw about one hour of walking around wet with about 200 yards of cutting through a park with wet gravel. I hope I haven't ruined them for good. 

post #7901 of 9406
You haven't ruined them.
post #7902 of 9406
Quote:
The boots saw about one hour of walking around wet with about 200 yards of cutting through a park with wet gravel. I hope I haven't ruined them for good. 


 

If that's enough to ruin a pair of boots, they are crap boots and nobody should buy them again ever.

 

 

The soles will be fine, just (as mentioned) lay them on their sides at the end of the day and don't wear them until they completely dry out again.

 

I put topies on my leather soled wolverines. I regret it. 

 

Wearing leather soles in wet weather WILL wear them out sooner than if you wore them only in dry weather. But the sole is a sacrificial and replaceable item. I don't think you'll ruin anything, you just might need a resole sooner than later if you wear them in the water often.

 

 

For what it's worth, I have two pairs of leather soled shoes without topies, and I wear them outside in the rain for short walks and I don't worry about it at all. 

 

If I'm going to walk for 1/2 hour or longer in wet conditions, I choose a pair with rubber soles. Not because I'm afraid of "ruining" the shoes, but to stretch the life of the sole out.

post #7903 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeVooDoo View Post
 

Update: 

Day 3, and I am officially in the 'boots feel like hell' camp with the Arch ease.Some members seem to have a perfect fit from the very start, unfortunately that's not me.  After 3 days I'm giving my feet and boots a rest. I think the Arch ease is giving my feet indention's, just before the heal. Almost tempted to do the 'hot water in the boot and wear them till they dry' trick. I have read so many posts on this forum about how uncomfortable they were for about a month, and then they became the most comfortable pair of boots they have ever warn, that I'm going to keep up the routine and just wear them until they break in. 

 

THANKS!! for all of the post's on helping me and comments so far, this is a great forum!

 

 

 

Question

1. can you order White's without Arch ease? or even a step down on the arch ease?

 

2. Double socks is one suggestion I have read, any other suggestions other than getting them wet? (for example: wear them with tight laces vs. really loose laces, or heating up my feet and socks then wear and run in them?)

 

3. Bricks4, Since I want to keep my boot looking good as long possible, and don't have a single issue with the leather or how it feels (100% discomfort is from Arch Ease, everything else is perfect! Even the vibram and how flexible it was right out of the box makes it very ease to squat down and the tops of feet still very comfortable) So is Bricks4 a good way to protect the leather, without having the leather darken?

 

Thanks for the feed back.

 

(only been wearing them for 3 days and already have strangers commenting on the boots)

1.  I know they can do a lot with the arch (higher/lower/nix), but maybe you're feeling the "shelf" of a heeled boot more than the arch support.  I certainly did when I got mine.  I still feel it but it doesn't bother me. 

2.  Lace them properly snug and hike on uneven ground for a few hours.  It kills me but it makes a big difference.  Just everyday walking will take much longer. 

3.  I'm new to Bicks but it certainly has a good reputation and it WILL ever so slightly darken leather boots, but not nearly as much as Obernauf's (oil or LP). 

post #7904 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcusg View Post
 

1.  I know they can do a lot with the arch (higher/lower/nix), but maybe you're feeling the "shelf" of a heeled boot more than the arch support.  I certainly did when I got mine.  I still feel it but it doesn't bother me. 

2.  Lace them properly snug and hike on uneven ground for a few hours.  It kills me but it makes a big difference.  Just everyday walking will take much longer. 

3.  I'm new to Bicks but it certainly has a good reputation and it WILL ever so slightly darken leather boots, but not nearly as much as Obernauf's (oil or LP). 

 

Part 1. Fit

Thanks good advice, I have been walking in them on pretty flat terrain will start to mix it up. 

 

Bakers suggested I mail them back in and they could 'pound out' the section on each boot that is on the outside of the foot that is causing the discomfort. I might take them to a local cobbler and have him pound on just the 1/2 inch portion my outside sole were my outer foot hits the edge. 

 

      DOES THAT SEEM LIKE A GOOD IDEA???

                          OR A REALLY BAD IDEA???

 

Living in CA it is usually hot and you can count on the boots to warm up on the hot cement, and I have hot feet, but it has been in the 50's since I got them so not alot of heat to help mold them to my feet. I once again come back to the more you wear them quicker they will feel better. What do you guys think about pounding on the just the outside from a cobbler, combined with daily wear?

 

 

Part 2. Customize

 

As you can see from the picture below, I have kept them pretty tight on my feet (solid 4 days of wear). I had an idea that I was going to order a taller false tongue to to protect against the laces on the very top, but was thinking why not by a false tongue that is taller an wider to protect the gusset or real tongue all the way into the fold so it protects the gusset from the inside of the hooks? When the leather stretches (eye-lets / hooks get closer together) you cut away at the false tungue so it always fits nice.

       

      Anyone ever use a larger makeshift tongue? kept my old boots for the leather (They can't be resoled, Justin used PAPER instead of Leather in the sole)  and think that might work?.

 

 

 

Part 3. Bricks4

How long can I wait to apply Bricks4? I like them just the way they are and plan on taking care of them so they last a long time. I have seen youtube videos of guys conditioning their boots right out of the box, so not sure best route for proper boot/leather care. 

 

 

As Always thanks in advance, this is a great forum! 

post #7905 of 9406
Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeVooDoo View Post
 

 

Part 1. Fit

Thanks good advice, I have been walking in them on pretty flat terrain will start to mix it up. 

 

Bakers suggested I mail them back in and they could 'pound out' the section on each boot that is on the outside of the foot that is causing the discomfort. I might take them to a local cobbler and have him pound on just the 1/2 inch portion my outside sole were my outer foot hits the edge. 

 

      DOES THAT SEEM LIKE A GOOD IDEA???

                          OR A REALLY BAD IDEA???

 

Living in CA it is usually hot and you can count on the boots to warm up on the hot cement, and I have hot feet, but it has been in the 50's since I got them so not alot of heat to help mold them to my feet. I once again come back to the more you wear them quicker they will feel better. What do you guys think about pounding on the just the outside from a cobbler, combined with daily wear?

 

 

Part 2. Customize

 

As you can see from the picture below, I have kept them pretty tight on my feet (solid 4 days of wear). I had an idea that I was going to order a taller false tongue to to protect against the laces on the very top, but was thinking why not by a false tongue that is taller an wider to protect the gusset or real tongue all the way into the fold so it protects the gusset from the inside of the hooks? When the leather stretches (eye-lets / hooks get closer together) you cut away at the false tungue so it always fits nice.

       

      Anyone ever use a larger makeshift tongue? kept my old boots for the leather (They can't be resoled, Justin used PAPER instead of Leather in the sole)  and think that might work?.

 

 

 

 

Part 3. Bricks4

How long can I wait to apply Bricks4? I like them just the way they are and plan on taking care of them so they last a long time. I have seen youtube videos of guys conditioning their boots right out of the box, so not sure best route for proper boot/leather care. 

 

 

As Always thanks in advance, this is a great forum! 

 

For me the rub solution is duct tape.  Anywhere I get rubbed, I use duct tape till it heals.  It's a pain, but your foot will get used to the boot soon enough.  Just keep wearing them, I think sending them off is premature at this point.

No comment on the part 2.

Surely the leather does not need anything out of the box, but a coat of bicks4 certainly won't hurt anything.  Just don't over-do whatever you do (i.e. too much oil or bicks or anything).  Leather care has a lot to do with how the leather will live it's life (wet/dry/indoor/outdoor).  You'll have to do a little research here.

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