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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 518

post #7756 of 8699
Quote:
 I know Hathorn's doesn't have arch support.

 

That is incorrect. I have a pair of Hathorn Smoke Jumpers (10''. black smooth leather just like the ones pictured) and the arch support is the same as with my White's Farmer/Ranchers (which are Smokejumpers but with a 700 sole instead of the lug sole). I don't feel a difference with regard to arch support.

 

Quote:
 This is the only difference for these two pairs?? What about the quality of leather or stitching?

 

The black smooth leather on my Hathorns is at least the same thickness as the brown smooth on my White's. I don't have a White's in black smooth for a direct comparison but the quality of the leather looks excellent, with tight, even grain and no visible defects. It's extremely tough, takes a while to break in and is unmistakably a workboot leather. I read somewhere that the leather for White's, Hathorn Hi-Line and Hathorn boots is cut from the same hides, and that White's gets the nicest pieces. It would make sense but I have no idea if it is true. Also, even the best parts will still look like black oil tan, i.e. decidedly un-glamorous. Anyway, the leather looks and feels great.

 

Hathorn hardware (hooks and eyelets) looks identical to White's. The soles are the same as well (Vibram 100F with red center lug), but "only" stitched on – no screws on the Hathorn sole. If you don't spend your workday walking on hot, smoking ashes, you probably won't need the screws anyway. The main difference is in the craftsmanship. It's hard to describe, but  when I look at the boots side by side, the Hathorns look less refined, less detailed than the White's. The stitching is not as precise and a bit wonky in several places (purely cosmetical), the backstay has a simpler shape and the whole boot looks more plain and workboot-like.

 

However, the most important difference for me is the fit. Hathorn SJ are made on a different last than White's SJ. And for me the White's last works a lot better. Where I get a precise fit bordering on too narrow with the White's, the same size (12.5D) in Hathorn is actually too wide. The White's SJ last also looks better, its shape is better defined and has more character.

post #7757 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zachery Zhu View Post


I just got my 10'' wesco job master and an old 8'' smoke jumper. I feel the arch support is the same, and 8'' is easily to walk. Maybe it is because I didn't break in my wesco.


I think he was asking about ankle support.  Maybe that's what you meant?

post #7758 of 8699

A few more pics from about 120 hours of wear.

I recently oiled the tongue and that really helped in terms of break-in comfort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #7759 of 8699
I received my boots today! The fit is perfect and they look great. Here they are:

Here is the build:
Custom Semi Dress by White's Boots
Last: Standard
Toe Vamp Leather: Natural Chrome Excel by Horween
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Natural Chrome Excel by Horween
Leather Liner: Cream
Pull Loops: No Thanks
Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap Natural Chromexcel
Toe Bug Stitching: No Thank You
Toe Bug Stitching Color: Does not apply
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Hardware: Antique Eyes & Hooks
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Heel Base: Standard
Heel Lifts: Standard
Sole: Vibram 269
Sole Trim: Close Trim (Single Row Stitch)
Size - Length: 8
Size - Width: D (medium)
post #7760 of 8699

beautiful boot there.  the bottom picture makes the shoe appear like a miniature. just found out I wont be getting my medallion toe cap on my new nicks boot.  your picture shoes how good a simple toe looks.  enjoy

post #7761 of 8699

Vibram 269 Looks like I'm already committed. 

 

Bakers said 269 was holding up order, did research and got suggestions from this forum on a good replacement. Found that I wanted the 430 or 700 more than the 269, but when I called Bakers yesterday, they confirmed that Whites had already put on the 269 sole. Lets hope I don't run into the issues others were having with this sole. I'll of course post pics once I get the boots and followup with progress reports. 

 

Thanks for you help, hope to have the boots sometime late next week!!

post #7762 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveinsweethome View Post

beautiful boot there.  the bottom picture makes the shoe appear like a miniature. just found out I wont be getting my medallion toe cap on my new nicks boot.  your picture shoes how good a simple toe looks.  enjoy
Thanks! I thought hard about the medallion and decided against it- mainly because I feel the regular cap dresses the boot enough but not too much to wear every day. Now that you mention it- the bottom picture does make the boot look oddly small. It is a size 8, but the perspective makes it look like a child-size.
post #7763 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodAg View Post

I received my boots today! The fit is perfect and they look great. Here they are:

Here is the build:
Custom Semi Dress by White's Boots
Last: Standard
Toe Vamp Leather: Natural Chrome Excel by Horween
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Natural Chrome Excel by Horween
Leather Liner: Cream
Pull Loops: No Thanks
Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap Natural Chromexcel
Toe Bug Stitching: No Thank You
Toe Bug Stitching Color: Does not apply
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Hardware: Antique Eyes & Hooks
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Heel Base: Standard
Heel Lifts: Standard
Sole: Vibram 269
Sole Trim: Close Trim (Single Row Stitch)
Size - Length: 8
Size - Width: D (medium)

I also Went with the Vibram 269, how does it feel? I know it is early to get a report on wear, but are your initial thoughts positive about the Vibram you choose? 

post #7764 of 8699

 

Hope you guys don't get this too soon!

 

 

post #7765 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeVooDoo View Post

I also Went with the Vibram 269, how does it feel? I know it is early to get a report on wear, but are your initial thoughts positive about the Vibram you choose? 
I went with the 269 knowing the possible issues. I wanted a thin profiled sole and love the look of a plain leather sole, but don't like the longevity of it. My second option was a topy installed by bakers, but that cost a little additional and again- longevity. The 269 offers a little more rubber and should last longer than a plain leather sole or leather with topy. If the treads shred- not too concerned. If I don't like it, I can resole it in the next year or so. It looks great and feels great so far!
post #7766 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by TH3515 View Post
 

 

That is incorrect. I have a pair of Hathorn Smoke Jumpers (10''. black smooth leather just like the ones pictured) and the arch support is the same as with my White's Farmer/Ranchers (which are Smokejumpers but with a 700 sole instead of the lug sole). I don't feel a difference with regard to arch support.

 

 

The black smooth leather on my Hathorns is at least the same thickness as the brown smooth on my White's. I don't have a White's in black smooth for a direct comparison but the quality of the leather looks excellent, with tight, even grain and no visible defects. It's extremely tough, takes a while to break in and is unmistakably a workboot leather. I read somewhere that the leather for White's, Hathorn Hi-Line and Hathorn boots is cut from the same hides, and that White's gets the nicest pieces. It would make sense but I have no idea if it is true. Also, even the best parts will still look like black oil tan, i.e. decidedly un-glamorous. Anyway, the leather looks and feels great.

 

Hathorn hardware (hooks and eyelets) looks identical to White's. The soles are the same as well (Vibram 100F with red center lug), but "only" stitched on – no screws on the Hathorn sole. If you don't spend your workday walking on hot, smoking ashes, you probably won't need the screws anyway. The main difference is in the craftsmanship. It's hard to describe, but  when I look at the boots side by side, the Hathorns look less refined, less detailed than the White's. The stitching is not as precise and a bit wonky in several places (purely cosmetical), the backstay has a simpler shape and the whole boot looks more plain and workboot-like.

 

However, the most important difference for me is the fit. Hathorn SJ are made on a different last than White's SJ. And for me the White's last works a lot better. Where I get a precise fit bordering on too narrow with the White's, the same size (12.5D) in Hathorn is actually too wide. The White's SJ last also looks better, its shape is better defined and has more character.


Thank you very much! You are very helpful!!! This is answer I'm looking for. There is a deal of hathorn's SJ on eBay, it's just $99. So I'm considering to buy it. Based on your opinion, I'll give it a try. Thank you!

post #7767 of 8699
By the way... What I wrote applies to the Hathorn boots, not the Hathorn Explorer, which are the cheapest range of boots. The Explorer models are made with imported uppers - I think they are still lasted in Spokane but the quality of the leather is not comparable with the other ranges, which are entirely built from scratch with US sourced materials.
I bought my black Hathorn SJs from White's ebay shop Whitesriver at a similar price to the one you quoted. At that price the value is fantastic, though for me the fun is partly spoiled by the shipping cost (to Germany) and import duties which almost double the price in the end.
post #7768 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodAg View Post


I went with the 269 knowing the possible issues. I wanted a thin profiled sole and love the look of a plain leather sole, but don't like the longevity of it. My second option was a topy installed by bakers, but that cost a little additional and again- longevity. The 269 offers a little more rubber and should last longer than a plain leather sole or leather with topy. If the treads shred- not too concerned. If I don't like it, I can resole it in the next year or so. It looks great and feels great so far!

 

 

GoodAg,

 

I had the exact same thought when I went with the 269, the photo above your post (showing issues with the 269) seems like something I can live with. Since I'm going to be using them almost entirely as a walking shoe I'm hoping the 269 holds up. I really like the look of that sole, but if they just fall apart I can resole with the 430 or 700 and see how those soles wear. My thought is to invest in a quality pair of shoes I can resole many times and try different soles if needed. Really looking forward to getting my Whites, never owned anything as nice as the White's. 

 

Thanks!!

post #7769 of 8699
^
10yrs in the boot game & I have yet to send a single pair out for a resole. What bothers me about resoling is, the possibility of a botched job.

Not that I'm dwelling on the negative__ If I'm paying premium on a pair, I want it to be trouble-free for @least 3yrs of effective wear. Hence, on MTO build, choosing the right sole [for its purpose] is as important as choosing the leather.

From experience, I find Goodyear Commando the most durable/long-lasting ... too bad, White's don't offer it__ Vibram 100 lugs are just waaay too chunky= heavy+high profiled. Other than pure rubber, Vibram should make a 430 composite version.
Edited by IIIrd Icon - 12/31/15 at 6:36am
post #7770 of 8699

^^ It's a shame that the 269 has gone bad for some guys.  I really like the way it looks -- the thin black line in the heel, etc, and also I feel like it's pretty comfy to walk on and works well on nearly all surfaces in my experience (except packed snow or ice, which I rarely get in DC). For what it's worth, I have worn mine (on BH's) for over a year and a half with no problems.  Just now they are getting an expected wear mark on each sole right at the ball of my foot; nothing unusual. I expect them to last at least another year or two, maybe more.

 

So perhaps the problems are not endemic to the 269 but was rather a certain batch or era..?  Those of you who are on the Viberg board might remember a similar thing with a batch of Itshide soles..

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