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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 500

post #7486 of 8699

 here are a couple quick pictures..added the alden as Bakers boots did the work on it too.  first up a Hathorn oxford cxl burgundy replacing the crepe sole with a new Italian leather they just received with some burnishing to make it look cognac on the welt.  they also lightly sanded the heel to add a touch.  very happy with this shoe now.  not a true dress shoe but I am wearing it as such. also a lot less $$ than a retro oxford.

 

Second picture is simply an Alden indy black calf without the cork sole which is now much more Oregon friendly.  tried for 8 weeks to get a danite on it but this is just dandy I believe.  thanks to Bakers shoes for this great work.

 

tell me what you think.

 

 

 

post #7487 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveinsweethome View Post

tell me what you think.

Gorgeous. Will White's do a non-christy/lug sole on the Hawthorne do you know?
post #7488 of 8699

don't believe so.  they are more or were more into the retro oxford.  couldn't hurt to ask them.  am going to buy a unexpected pair of boots for me next week.  a lowa Tibet for traipsing around my hilly landscape.  never imagined myself in true hiking boots. 

post #7489 of 8699

hey guys, I thought I'd post some quick info on BOOT WEIGHTS that you may [or may not!!] find useful when making your first White's purchase. This was one of the many questions I had when i first started looking.

 

Anyway, I happen to have four pair of popular casual boots that many of us probably own so I broke out my highly calibrated bathroom scale and thought I'd do a weight comparison [this was after the MNF game turned into a rout]. The four boots are

1. White's Semi-dress [5" of course] in unlined brown cxl with an after-market half rubber sole,

2. White's/Hathorn Traveler w/half commando mini-lug sole,

3. Red Wing Brogue IR

4. Chippewa 6" service boot in black rough-out.

The first two were Amazon specials, so you can look them up on-line to see what they look like.

 

All boots were in size 10.5D and all but the SD's fit the same [fairly snug] in width. As I mentioned in a post a few months ago, the SD's fit at least one 'letter width' wider than the others. But seeing as these are all my first boots in their respective companies, I didn't know which was the 'right' fit. They all fit about the same in length. And all but the SD's were 6" in height.

 

The results [per pair] are pretty much what my feet told me. SD's - 4.4 lbs, Hathorns - 4.2 lbs, Red Wing - 4.0 lbs and Chipps - 3.8 lbs. This makes sense as this is also the order in which they would be placed in terms of construction weight. The conclusion I drew is that, even though I could feel the difference, there is not a big enough difference in weight to write home about, unless you are going from the Chipps to the SD, in which case you may care. Remember, 1 lb on your feet is equivalent to 3-4 lbs on your back.

 

As a final comparison, I weighed my 40 year old Fabiano Mountain boots [old school leather mid weight mountaineering boots]. Granted they're a full size bigger than the others but they came in at a whopping 6.2 lbs. You know when you have those on your feet.

post #7490 of 8699

Hello All,

I have some SJ's with vibram 430 that lasted about a year, and some BH's with the 700 sole that made it 9 months. I wore them both out in the same (last) year. A little disappointing, but what do you do? I called Bakers  today and they told me 6 to 8 weeks for a resole! Really, I've had boots built in that much time. I've also waited much longer, but that just seems like a long time to be without my boots just for a resole. Ya know I'll wait (again) if that's what it takes for a quality job, but it seems that there must be some good cobblers out there that can do a resole in what I consider to be a more timely manner.

 

So what say you all. Who else can do a good resole besides Bakers, Whites, Wesco, or Nicks? I looked in the local (Denver area) yellow pages but I just don't dare leave them off with anyone that I know nothing about.

post #7491 of 8699
Yeah I'm in a similar situation over here in Chicago - cobblers in every neighborhood, but I've bad experiences in the past with 2 I've tried
post #7492 of 8699


Whites

Quote:
Originally Posted by offrd63fj40 View Post
 

Hello All,

I have some SJ's with vibram 430 that lasted about a year, and some BH's with the 700 sole that made it 9 months. I wore them both out in the same (last) year. A little disappointing, but what do you do? I called Bakers  today and they told me 6 to 8 weeks for a resole! Really, I've had boots built in that much time. I've also waited much longer, but that just seems like a long time to be without my boots just for a resole. Ya know I'll wait (again) if that's what it takes for a quality job, but it seems that there must be some good cobblers out there that can do a resole in what I consider to be a more timely manner.

 

So what say you all. Who else can do a good resole besides Bakers, Whites, Wesco, or Nicks? I looked in the local (Denver area) yellow pages but I just don't dare leave them off with anyone that I know nothing about.


In my experience, Whites usually turns them around in 3 weeks - including shipping time and I'm in NY.  Has been as much as 5 weeks during busy season....never 6 - 8 weeks though.

post #7493 of 8699
If frequently on-off, which one is faster between all eyes or eye-hooks.
post #7494 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by Royteane View Post

If frequently on-off, which one is faster between all eyes or eye-hooks.

Eyes - hooks is much faster on and off.
post #7495 of 8699

I know what you mean, I blew out my last pair of boots and decided to upgrade to a custom pair of White's. My Cobbler who is really good, recommend every boot manufacturer but pointed out White's as a 'bad purchase'. Apparently he won't work on White's. He stated that they have a different build and he didn't have the equipment to work on them. Weird, I know. I'm still getting White's, got about a month for the build. 

post #7496 of 8699
Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeVooDoo View Post

I know what you mean, I blew out my last pair of boots and decided to upgrade to a custom pair of White's. My Cobbler who is really good, recommend every boot manufacturer but pointed out White's as a 'bad purchase'. Apparently he won't work on White's. He stated that they have a different build and he didn't have the equipment to work on them. Weird, I know. I'm still getting White's, got about a month for the build. 

White's have a unique build, and use unique equipment - it isn't assembled like a normal GYW shoe or boot. Whether that is an advantage or a disadvantage is up to you - I think this cobbler's claim that it is bad because he can't work on it is purely motivated by his self-interest. The White's and Nick's build method is less common, but well adapted to the type of use their boots were designed for - fire fighting, linesmen, etc., who wanted a stiff boot without rubber, adhesives/cements, or a metal shank, that is waterproof by design. Not everyone can work on them, but the fire fighters I know just send theirs back into White's to get them rebuilt when it is time (every other season, for the ones I know).

Boots with a more traditional construction, like Red Wing and Wolverine are easier to get locally resoled, but you don't get the construction method of the Whites.
post #7497 of 8699

being that Whites started out in the civil war era I wonder what the construction was like then.  first pictures would be a hoot to see now.  Otto White sure took a leap of faith moving from east coast to Idaho then Washington.  I am always startled when people and stores out here mention the lack of knowledge of east coast mfg for west coast boots and vice versa.  now with the web this must be diminished.  Japan proves that.  does every logger in Minnesota wear redwings?

post #7498 of 8699

Been lurking around this thread and decided to get myself a pair of White's semi dress. I'm fascinated about how the brown dress SD evolves that I've seen in previous posts and will like a classic pair for a start as my first White's boots. I saw that Bakers offer the standard SD, but I probably will like something slightly different than that. After reading around the forum (including seeking clarifications with Kyle via email, he has so far been very helpful) and some homework I have come up with these configuration options (although I still do not understand some and the pros and cons, so will appreciate if you guys can advise). Please see my configuration below and comments.

 

White's semi dress:

Leather 1: Brown dress
Leather 2: Brown dress
Toe Vamp leather: Brown dress
Upper shaft leather: Brown dress
Toe Cap leather: None
Celastic Toe Box: Single or none? (I like something like the Red Wing GT, which is not too soft but yet able to retain shape. So should I go for single celastic or none?)
Safety Toe: No thanks
Height: Standard semi dress height (5")
Leather liner: Tan/Red or none (I read in previous post that dress leather doesn't really require liner. What is the purpose of liner and do you guys have liner for your brown dress SD? If so, what color?Are you guys able to share some images of yours?)
Back stay leather: Brown dress
Pull loop: No 
Eyelet color: Antique
Sole trim: Standard (dual layer stitch)
Toe Cap: No thanks
Eyelet configuration: Hook and eyelet
Lace: Leather (Does the SD comes with leather laces default?I will like to have the leather laces as well as the brown cotton lace as shown on the SD offered by Bakers. Do I need to separately order for this?)
Lace design: (I'm not sure what this refers to? Can advise?)
Sole: Vib 430/700 (I'm considering between these two. What are the pros and cons of the Vib 430/700? Any other popular choices for SD?)

Sole composition: Full sole (I chose full sole. Am I right that a half composition sole will expose leather under the sole i.e. something like the Red Wing GT?)
Half slip: No (I chose not to have. I'm not sure what's the purpose of the half slip)
Heel shape: Curve (If I'm not wrong this is the cuban heel? I'm more inclined towards the curve heel than the block heel)
Heel height: Standard
Last: Standard (Semi dress last #55)
Midsole: Standard Single (Does anyone has a double midsole for their SD?Will it look too bulky?Any images to share?)
Midsole/Edge colour: Natural (Does the natural edge colour evolves into the brown over time?)

 

As for sizing, I am 8.5 D in my Red Wings (i.e. IR, GT, Mocs) and they fit perfect for all. Nonetheless I will try to trace my foot accordingly and send them in to Bakers if possible as I'm not residing in the U.S.

 

What you guys think of the configuration above? Will it be good? Any comments on how I can improve the configuration are appreciated :happy:

post #7499 of 8699
during the agonizing wait for baker's to get back to me about sizing, i'm starting to wonder if i should switch my leather choice to distressed smooth. i want leather that shows a lot of character and develops and nice patina, but spending this much on boots, i don't want to have to worry about the durability of the leather, especially when i'll use them for work. with the way cxl shows wear more early, does that in turn mean that it'll wear out more quickly?

this is how my red wings look a month or two after cleaning/conditioning.




i clean them and they're good to go for another month or two. just want to make sure cxl can do just as well, or better, than the oro-iginal red wing leather.
post #7500 of 8699

Many of us here, especially me, really love White's brown dress leather. I have a SD pair and a BH pair. I don't think you can go wrong with this choice. Many of the options you are wondering about boil down to personal preference. Here's my quick take on them.

 

Celastic toe box: I have one brown dress pair with and one without. I like the comfort of the noncelastic toe box and it has held its shape pretty well (I posted a picture not too far back). That said, if you're looking to keep a more dressy, clean appearance, get the celastic.

 

Liner: I posted a message just a page or two back re. the liner. I went with tan on the lined pair.

 

Laces: Baker's will send leather laces if you request them. Not sure what the default is - may depend on how you ordered (website vs. buildaboot).

 

Eyelets: Personally, I like all eyelets on the SD but have eyelets and hooks on the slightly taller BH.

 

Sole: See comments above on sole options. I've had good luck with the 430 but others disagree.

 

Heels: If you search this thread, you'll find passionate advocates for both the curve and the block heel. Me, I love the curved heel (not a Cuban heel technically).

 

Midsole: You would really have to be hard on your shoes to need a double sole. I can't imagine the break in period.

 

Edge: The natural edge does darken over time.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by luker View Post
 

Been lurking around this thread and decided to get myself a pair of White's semi dress. I'm fascinated about how the brown dress SD evolves that I've seen in previous posts and will like a classic pair for a start as my first White's boots. I saw that Bakers offer the standard SD, but I probably will like something slightly different than that. After reading around the forum (including seeking clarifications with Kyle via email, he has so far been very helpful) and some homework I have come up with these configuration options (although I still do not understand some and the pros and cons, so will appreciate if you guys can advise). Please see my configuration below and comments.

 

White's semi dress:

Leather 1: Brown dress
Leather 2: Brown dress
Toe Vamp leather: Brown dress
Upper shaft leather: Brown dress
Toe Cap leather: None
Celastic Toe Box: Single or none? (I like something like the Red Wing GT, which is not too soft but yet able to retain shape. So should I go for single celastic or none?)
Safety Toe: No thanks
Height: Standard semi dress height (5")
Leather liner: Tan/Red or none (I read in previous post that dress leather doesn't really require liner. What is the purpose of liner and do you guys have liner for your brown dress SD? If so, what color?Are you guys able to share some images of yours?)
Back stay leather: Brown dress
Pull loop: No 
Eyelet color: Antique
Sole trim: Standard (dual layer stitch)
Toe Cap: No thanks
Eyelet configuration: Hook and eyelet
Lace: Leather (Does the SD comes with leather laces default?I will like to have the leather laces as well as the brown cotton lace as shown on the SD offered by Bakers. Do I need to separately order for this?)
Lace design: (I'm not sure what this refers to? Can advise?)
Sole: Vib 430/700 (I'm considering between these two. What are the pros and cons of the Vib 430/700? Any other popular choices for SD?)

Sole composition: Full sole (I chose full sole. Am I right that a half composition sole will expose leather under the sole i.e. something like the Red Wing GT?)
Half slip: No (I chose not to have. I'm not sure what's the purpose of the half slip)
Heel shape: Curve (If I'm not wrong this is the cuban heel? I'm more inclined towards the curve heel than the block heel)
Heel height: Standard
Last: Standard (Semi dress last #55)
Midsole: Standard Single (Does anyone has a double midsole for their SD?Will it look too bulky?Any images to share?)
Midsole/Edge colour: Natural (Does the natural edge colour evolves into the brown over time?)

 

As for sizing, I am 8.5 D in my Red Wings (i.e. IR, GT, Mocs) and they fit perfect for all. Nonetheless I will try to trace my foot accordingly and send them in to Bakers if possible as I'm not residing in the U.S.

 

What you guys think of the configuration above? Will it be good? Any comments on how I can improve the configuration are appreciated :happy:

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