or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 308

post #4606 of 5037
There was a discussion recently on the toe cap and rough out combinations. Check out these boots!
post #4607 of 5037
Wow! And check these out. Hunters?

post #4608 of 5037
Smoke Jumper turned up last

post #4609 of 5037
Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post

Smoke Jumper turned up last

 
wow, these look sick! Bison leather?
post #4610 of 5037
Greetings all,
New to the forum and looking for some advise. I have started a conversation with Kyle at Bakers and just want some more feedback on how White's should feel as I have always worn ill fitting shoes/boots and thought that was just my lot in life. Turns out after sending my tracings to Kyle and talking about last shapes to suit my foot, I have never been properly sized (even by 2 Alden dealers including the flagship store in DC). I have always bought 11.5d in dress shoes and 12d in sneakers/trecking shoes. My heel is narrow but am wide across the ball with a fairly shallow curve from pinky toes to big toe (second toe is as long as big toe), right foot is 1/4 longer and slightly wider. Alden fitted me in an 11.5c on the Barrie which I discovered with Kyle's deduction was trading length to gain proper width and heel fit. My 975's are fairly comfortable but are clearly and inch too long and I drag the toe.
Kyle sent me 3 pairs of boots to try on for size reference, Smoke jumper with non celastic toe (10.5D) , white's oxford for bakers(10.5e) , and the White's retro oxford in 10.5e in black water buffalo with medallion toe cap. The smoke jumper was way too snug and my toes crammed the front. The bakers oxford was a fairly good fit with the bubble toe but my 4th toes hit the sides where the curve towards the toes box starts (my pathological problem with all shoes, my 4th and 5th toes hit where he taper starts-all Brit brands kill me here). The retro oxford was the revelation. It was a near perfect fit and the wide curved last (looks like a Munson but is not the swing last, they call it the 154 oxford last-specific to this shoe) toes not bind my toes anywhere. The build out is not exactly what I would want (different leather, different sole) but for this fit I would live with them.
My question (long way around to the point) is on size. Kyle says my measurement are that of a 10.5e but seeing as I'm not there with him, it is up to me to judge the fit. He said they can build a semi-dress on the 154 last which would be perfect but the size is my issue. These retro oxfords fit perfectly in the heel, are snug by not tight across the laces (laces are 1" apart when tied comfortably and 3/4 when tight) and feel perfect in the toe box when walking around. When I sit with both feet on the ground and my feet slide slightly forward I can feel my 4th toes slightly touch the curve of the toe box but it's just a touch, not a push. My pinky toes rest against the leather on the sides but they don't feel tight, just touching. Seeing as I clearly have not felt a shoe fit properly, I'm not sure what I should be feeling. Is it ok for my toes to feel the sides and curve of the toe box when sitting or should I go up to an 11 to get the curve farther forward? Would the 1/8th inch difference make the whole shoe looser? I am only use to too snug and barely comfortable (AE) or sloppy and loose (Dr. martens in 11uk).
Thanks in advanced for any insight you guys can lend.



James
post #4611 of 5037
Oh, and for reference, a 30+ year old side zip military boot on the Munson last for comparison, the white's is actually a bit more comfortable and far more supportive
post #4612 of 5037

Very difficult to advise specifically - what I usually do is I go up to he next half size or width until I realize that size would be too big, and settle then on the previous one. If you think the next size up may solve your issues, you should try that. Remember you can then always adjust by the thickness in socks. The trick is that too small cannot be adjusted this way. It`s a very personal process - good luck. Feel comforted though that Whites most probably have every half size and width combination that could possibly fit you, so its just a question of finding the correct combination. Great of Kyle to help out.

post #4613 of 5037
Quote:
Originally Posted by climbinglife View Post
 

I read (they are not mine) that its red dog bullhide, though the white balance in the camera may be exaggerating things.

post #4614 of 5037
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrosenthal View Post

Greetings all,
New to the forum and looking for some advise. I have started a conversation with Kyle at Bakers and just want some more feedback on how White's should feel as I have always worn ill fitting shoes/boots and thought that was just my lot in life. Turns out after sending my tracings to Kyle and talking about last shapes to suit my foot, I have never been properly sized (even by 2 Alden dealers including the flagship store in DC). I have always bought 11.5d in dress shoes and 12d in sneakers/trecking shoes. My heel is narrow but am wide across the ball with a fairly shallow curve from pinky toes to big toe (second toe is as long as big toe), right foot is 1/4 longer and slightly wider. Alden fitted me in an 11.5c on the Barrie which I discovered with Kyle's deduction was trading length to gain proper width and heel fit. My 975's are fairly comfortable but are clearly and inch too long and I drag the toe.
Kyle sent me 3 pairs of boots to try on for size reference, Smoke jumper with non celastic toe (10.5D) , white's oxford for bakers(10.5e) , and the White's retro oxford in 10.5e in black water buffalo with medallion toe cap. The smoke jumper was way too snug and my toes crammed the front. The bakers oxford was a fairly good fit with the bubble toe but my 4th toes hit the sides where the curve towards the toes box starts (my pathological problem with all shoes, my 4th and 5th toes hit where he taper starts-all Brit brands kill me here). The retro oxford was the revelation. It was a near perfect fit and the wide curved last (looks like a Munson but is not the swing last, they call it the 154 oxford last-specific to this shoe) toes not bind my toes anywhere. The build out is not exactly what I would want (different leather, different sole) but for this fit I would live with them.
My question (long way around to the point) is on size. Kyle says my measurement are that of a 10.5e but seeing as I'm not there with him, it is up to me to judge the fit. He said they can build a semi-dress on the 154 last which would be perfect but the size is my issue. These retro oxfords fit perfectly in the heel, are snug by not tight across the laces (laces are 1" apart when tied comfortably and 3/4 when tight) and feel perfect in the toe box when walking around. When I sit with both feet on the ground and my feet slide slightly forward I can feel my 4th toes slightly touch the curve of the toe box but it's just a touch, not a push. My pinky toes rest against the leather on the sides but they don't feel tight, just touching. Seeing as I clearly have not felt a shoe fit properly, I'm not sure what I should be feeling. Is it ok for my toes to feel the sides and curve of the toe box when sitting or should I go up to an 11 to get the curve farther forward? Would the 1/8th inch difference make the whole shoe looser? I am only use to too snug and barely comfortable (AE) or sloppy and loose (Dr. martens in 11uk).
Thanks in advanced for any insight you guys can lend.



James

and

 

"The trick is that too small cannot be adjusted this way" 

 

Oh yes it certainly can and it is done every day. I can adjust 1/2 size too small very easily. Even Kyle at Bakers know I do it easily.

 

You can get all your shoes/boots to fit perfectly by calling Philip's Shoe Repair in DC he is a professional cobbler and can adjust the toe box out very easily and quickly to fit you perfectly. Aldens Lobb Vass ED Green you name it he does them....and has been for 45 years....

 

FYI: White's Smoke Jumpers should  fit real snug until broken in, you want them tight to form fit to your individual feet and it takes 7-10 wearings until they are done. You do not want loose boots right out of the box because once broken in they will require multiple pairs of heavy socks and will fit like dog poop. Just check Ebay for those from people in this thread that bought "big" that end up there.

post #4615 of 5037
Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieBailie View Post

 

FYI: White's Smoke Jumpers should  fit real snug until broken in, you want them tight to form fit to your individual feet and it takes 7-10 wearings until they are done. You do not want loose boots right out of the box because once broken in they will require multiple pairs of heavy socks and will fit like dog poop. Just check Ebay for those from people in this thread that bought "big" that end up there.

Unless you are using them for wildland firefighting, it really depends how you like your boots to fit.  Yes, if I am using these things for real field work, in which case, you are in them eight to ten hours a day in 100F+ heat, most of the time on your fee, and often walking through fairly new black areas, which will literally melt the soles of most boots, I prefer my boots, like footwear of any type, to fit really loosely.  I actually hardly ever lace anything up tight, ever.  If I am going out the door, I'll just tie a perfunctory knot and let the boot sorta slide around, as wide as possible.  

 

In the field, you want the boots to fit tight to prevent blisters from constant friction, and you want them laced up tight so that you are protected, as much as possible, from rolling your ankles.  But as anyone who has spent a lot of time on their feet can attest, it's a great feeling to get those boots off your feet at the end of the day, and put on some slip ons, or sneakers, or whatever.  Since these days, I get to lounge around in a seat most of the day (Apart from my daily workout, I will also get some lunch, coffee, whatever, but nothing physically strenuous) I prefer to have boots that fit large, rather than snug.  

 

Incidentally, to anyone deployed on a fire right now, be safe.  I just looked at a map of what we've got out here in the PNW, and it's like half of WA is burning.  

post #4616 of 5037

Also, fwiw, Whites are the gold standard for wildland firefighters, pretty much anywhere.  Since they are relatively expensive, and the kids that do firefighting are working class guys, by-and-large, getting a pair of custom White's is sorta a rite of passage, a commitment that you are going to do this for at least a while.  I honestly don't know anyone who got their White's secondhand, but it could be something that is done often, and that I've just not seen, personally.  

post #4617 of 5037
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

Also, fwiw, Whites are the gold standard for wildland firefighters, pretty much anywhere.  Since they are relatively expensive, and the kids that do firefighting are working class guys, by-and-large, getting a pair of custom White's is sorta a rite of passage, a commitment that you are going to do this for at least a while.  I honestly don't know anyone who got their White's secondhand, but it could be something that is done often, and that I've just not seen, personally.  

 

Just call White's, Wesco, Bakers, or Nicks repair departments, they sell dozens of pairs that are rebuilt and not picked up.

 

Not to even mention the ebay sales and resales of used boots.

post #4618 of 5037
The retro oxford's I am trying on for fit now fit snugly across the vamp and middle of the foot, but not too tight, and the toe box is perfect when walking and only when I sit and my feet shift forward do I feel my little toes on the outside touching the curve of the toe box, but not annoyingly so (but I haven't walked a day in them yet). If I wear these oxford's out of the house, they become mine, and for $500+ I would rather get the build out I want.

So the question is, is this the correct fit or should I order up 1/2 size? I tried them with both dress socks and thicker socks (both Smartwool) and they didn't seem too tight with thicker socks, I just laced them looser, but my feet did feel like they were snugged in like a glove.

The issue I usually have is that I will try on shoes, and even wear them around the house for an entire day (watching TV, up and down stairs, walking in circles), and they will seem fine, but I walk at least 3-5 miles a day at work (big campus and I have worn a pedometer), and what seems like a decent fit at 5am is killing me by 10. I am at this point now because I am tired of throwing my money away on "kind of fits" so going to a cobbler to fix it after shelling out $400+ on a pair of custom shoes in not gonna happen.

Since I'm ordering from scratch and seem to have found the last that works for me, I can get the fit right for once, but apparently have no frame of reference of how a shoe/ boot that is fitted properly should feel. It's akin to drinking cheap wine my entire life and someone pours me a glass of Chateau Neuf de Paup.....what is this I'm tasting??

James
post #4619 of 5037

I think you have answered your question - if the shoes fit well in the house, but after a 3-5 mile walk feel like they kill you, you have to find a fit for the 3-5 mile walk, unless you want a fit for the house. Feet swell up, and you have to find a fit that suits the worst conditions.

 

Or s-t-r-e-t-c-h! :bounce2: but I would not advise that...!

post #4620 of 5037
Agreed on the stretch and swell. I am a firm believer from bitter experience that if they don't fit out of the box, they don't fit. Sure shoes/boots need break in for the vamp and ankles, but leather doesn't stretch that much and modifying after the build by a cobbler is throwing good money after bad IMO. I just needed to know if a "snug" fit could be too snug, but I think your right, about the feet swelling. They should be a little comfy loose at home and will be just right by 2pm after logging 5 miles in them. 11e it will be then.

James
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?