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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 276post #4126 of 84216/27/14 at 7:42pmYou know, I think there is a little more to just the photos for as you say the slightly different leathers and tanning is going to create slightly different shades. Whites must have quite a stock of variations to choose from. Not so sure that you can order any leather in rough out. It exists if you turn it inside out but not sure it's processed to be used as such. Finally, personally I would never oil a rough out. Some people have, but I think it should be left as it is. It will never be a waterproof leather, but if you want waterproofing better to order a different leather is my opinion.post #4127 of 84216/27/14 at 7:50pmpost #4128 of 84216/27/14 at 7:54pm
I think if you brush it and keep the dirt off, the chances of cracking are small. But left with dirt, it will soon act like sandpaper. But its really the smooth leathers that will crack in my opinion. They are the ones with the outer finish. May be wrong there though, but haven't had a rough out or suede crack on me. But then, I`m an urban cowboy!post #4129 of 84216/27/14 at 8:18pmQuote:
I think the bottom is toffee and brown oil rough out. I have not seen this "toffee" advertised by anyone though
Kyle told me that you cannot get just any leather in rough out and from looking at the swatches I received this appears to be true.post #4130 of 84216/27/14 at 8:23pmQuote:Originally Posted by daizawaguy
You know, I think there is a little more to just the photos for as you say the slightly different leathers and tanning is going to create slightly different shades. Whites must have quite a stock of variations to choose from. Not so sure that you can order any leather in rough out. It exists if you turn it inside out but not sure it's processed to be used as such. Finally, personally I would never oil a rough out. Some people have, but I think it should be left as it is. It will never be a waterproof leather, but if you want waterproofing better to order a different leather is my opinion.
if you want to "water proof" rough out leather you have to use the silicon spay for suede. If you try to add any treatment to the rough side of leather it ruins the leather, you treat the "smooth" side only.post #4131 of 84216/27/14 at 8:45pm
Something to think about when you order anything custom:
White's boots will last a very very long time. When buying you should think about what you are buying will "look like on you " in 10-15 years, when you are wearing them. Remember 10 years ago what did your shoes/boots look like compared to now..
Doing this will save you a lot of money and donations to the GoodWill.
(I am still waiting for Neru suites and platform shoes to come back....they never will)
Examples $3 to 4.00 a pair 1940s Whites USA contract boots on the left and $1490.00 a Pair Ralph Lauren Bowery boots 2012 on the right.. basic styles never changes much...just get recycled and the price skyrockets....post #4132 of 84216/27/14 at 8:45pmpost #4133 of 84216/28/14 at 4:28amI'd beg to differ on the rough out comments. The vamp and heel on my SJs is black rough out, and I bought them specifically to wear in the winter working outside. I wore them all winter this past year and spent many, many hours removing snow and slush in eastern PA, and not once did my feet get wet. In fact, at one point my jeans got so wet that the water soaked through my jeans as well as the thermal underwear I was wearing. The smooth skin of the leather that keeps your feet dry is still on rough out leather, only it is now inside the boot where it can't get scratched and gouged to no longer be waterproof.
Also, I treated mine with LP just like I do any leather, and it soaks in just like on any leather. It does slightly soften the nap, but they still most certainly look like rough out, not slimy suede.post #4134 of 84216/28/14 at 4:59am
I ever tried LP on my Nubuck boots and got similar waterproof effect as you mentioned. LP does nit soak into nubuck, it just creates external coating film. Last week I drop a bucket of acrylic based paint and it splashed onto my LPed nubuck boots. I scratch it with my nail, LP film get out of my boot with the paint. My boots turn into nubuck suade-like texture, the same as they use to be before I LPed them.post #4135 of 84216/28/14 at 5:07ampost #4136 of 84216/28/14 at 5:21amQuote:Finally, personally I would never oil a rough out. Some people have, but I think it should be left as it is. It will never be a waterproof leather, but if you want waterproofing better to order a different leather is my opinion.
When I bought my Black Rough Out SJ's I asked the salesmen if I should oil or LP them like smooth leathers. He said yes. There is no difference. He sells a lot of SJ's to firefighters and a lot of western style White's. I LP'd mine a couple of times after I bought them. Can't remember if I oiled them or not. In any case they are very waterproof. I've stood in water 3 or 4 inches deep with them and nothing soaked through the leather. I could feel a leak right at the base of the laces on one but that isn't water soaking through it's a leak where the stitching might not be done correctly but it's so small I'm not worryied about it. Walking around in the snow constantly doesn't make it leak so it's not a big deal. However, my CWB's don't have a leak in them when I stand in deep water. My rough out SJ's bead up water just like my CWB's do when they get wet.
I did notice that when you LP the roughout it smooths it out. It takes the "rough" out of roughout. After a while the rough starts coming back.post #4137 of 84216/28/14 at 12:09pmpost #4138 of 84216/28/14 at 3:26pmpost #4139 of 84216/28/14 at 3:39pmpost #4140 of 84216/28/14 at 3:45pmQuote:
Here are a pair of real expensive "rough outs" treated, that did not change color and are just about 100% waterproof. The "nap" remained the same. They are dirty in the picture, my maid has not cleaned them yet.
(The laces are great, cheap, and made in DE by Snors....)
If I use it on these you can load up those heavier leather boots, with no problems or color changes.
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