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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 267

post #3991 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

I am as sure as I can be that the British Tan is NOT a CXL.  I mean, one hates to contradict White's themselves, but the truth is they are pretty sloppy sometimes in their question-answering.  I have always understood, and I think others will know too, that the British Tan is the same as Classic Brown, and that it is not a chromed leather.  It is a nice, light brown, and I don't know enough about leather tanning to know how it is processed, but I am pretty darn sure it is not CXL and would not have the stretching or fast wear of CXL...
Empty Garage JP advertises british tan as horween cxl, so I'm just plain confused!!

http://emptygarage.jp/smp/list.php?type=class&group=115037&sort=normal&pict=2&page=1
post #3992 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by b-ewing View Post


Empty Garage JP advertises british tan as horween cxl, so I'm just plain confused!!

http://emptygarage.jp/smp/list.php?type=class&group=115037&sort=normal&pict=2&page=1

 

Well, I certainly don't know for sure, but all their other CXL they clearly labeled as such, and they charge (or at least used to) an extra charge for the CXL, but do neither of these things for Br Tan.  And I am holding now my samples of Bl CXL, Br CXL, and Burgundy CXL, along with Br Tan, and the others all stretch easily when pulled, whereas the Br Tan does not.  It does however have a natural, untanned back and edge, but so do some of the other non-CXL leathers.  Anyway...

post #3993 of 4591
I'm sold... Thx for the info
post #3994 of 4591
I received some leather samples from Bakers; Brown oil tan, Distressed, Brown CXL, and British tan. The brown oil and distressed are not 'stretchy' at all, but the British tan to my surprise has almost the same feel and thickness as the CXL. Kyle at Bakers told me that the distressed, brown oil and Brit tan would be the best for work boots, but I would not use the British tan in a 'rough' environment IMO.

Other notes: the Distressed feels almost dry and scratches easily with no give when pulled. Brown oil is by far the thickest and feels bulletproof with no give or stretch when pulled.

I don't have a great pic of the leathers, but east west apparel's website has some good photos.
post #3995 of 4591
post #3996 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by CityofChamps View Post

I received some leather samples from Bakers; Brown oil tan, Distressed, Brown CXL, and British tan. The brown oil and distressed are not 'stretchy' at all, but the British tan to my surprise has almost the same feel and thickness as the CXL. Kyle at Bakers told me that the distressed, brown oil and Brit tan would be the best for work boots, but I would not use the British tan in a 'rough' environment IMO.

Other notes: the Distressed feels almost dry and scratches easily with no give when pulled. Brown oil is by far the thickest and feels bulletproof with no give or stretch when pulled.

I don't have a great pic of the leathers, but east west apparel's website has some good photos.

Now I am confused. East West Apparel has different samples for Brown Smooth, Brown Oil Tan and Classic Brown and they look different too. Are these really different leathers? Which one of these is the heavy 7-8 oz leather that White's uses. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post
 

The lining is used for various reasons - some leathers inside are rougher than others, some more delicate (water buffalo), some oiled and hence it serves various functions. I would not say it serves as insulation as such, but as an extra layer, could have some effect. I don't think it changes the boots feel in the summer, on the contrary it helps to absorb moisture. It`s an extra layer that helps takes your foots form, and I find gives a better fit. Some prefer the liner, some don't. I personally do, and find the white/beige is super supple, and extra comfortable.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post
 

 

I am as sure as I can be that the British Tan is NOT a CXL.  I mean, one hates to contradict White's themselves, but the truth is they are pretty sloppy sometimes in their question-answering.  I have always understood, and I think others will know too, that the British Tan is the same as Classic Brown, and that it is not a chromed leather.  It is a nice, light brown, and I don't know enough about leather tanning to know how it is processed, but I am pretty darn sure it is not CXL and would not have the stretching or fast wear of CXL...

 

Thank you @daizawaguy and @lanafelt. 

post #3997 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogili222 View Post
 

Now I am confused. East West Apparel has different samples for Brown Smooth, Brown Oil Tan and Classic Brown and they look different too. Are these really different leathers? Which one of these is the heavy 7-8 oz leather that White's uses. 

 

 

 

 

Thank you @daizawaguy and @lanafelt. 

 

Yeah, definitely confusing...  Here's my understanding:  White's has always treated Brown Smooth and Brown Oil Tan as two different ways of referring to the same leather, which I think is the case.  But they have in the past seemed to treat British Tan and Classic Brown as two different leathers, and indeed send me samples of each labeled differently. They seemed very similar to me, but I didn't look too closely because they were not on my option list.  But then, a few months ago as I recall, someone on this board confirmed with White's that British Tan and Classic Brown were also the same leather.  But depending on who you talk to at White's, you sometimes get different answers.

 

Bottom line:  pretty sure that we have TWO leathers here only, Brown Oil Tan/Brown Smooth (the heavy stuff) on the one hand, and British Tan/Classic Brown on the other. 

 

Now, as to whether British Tan is a CXL leather... seems unclear, though I really don't think it is.


Edited by linafelt - 6/12/14 at 10:10am
post #3998 of 4591

Speaking of leathers: Does anybody know the difference between the "oil" and non-oil varieties of bullhide? There's lots of examples for both in the leather samples page linked above. I like the look of the bullhide grain but have read that it is a relatively soft leather – which I wouldn't want in a boot. OTOH, there's some SJ owners that described their BH as being almost brutally tough – which I would definitely prefer;-)

Could it be that the difference is due to there being two different tanning processes, where "oil" Bullhide stands for oil tan and results in the notorious toughness that we know from the standard brown or black oil tan, whereas the non-oil types have that softer feel?

post #3999 of 4591

Oil has more of a slik look vrs std tanning having a more semi gloss. The bull hide is not as "hard" as steer/cattle hide, thus the"soft" bs, It is as or more durable than the others and is softer because of the hide taking the process and not becoming stiff.

 

If one skins an animal and hangs it up it becomes stiff, if one processes leather it retains its elasticity. Bull hide is softer and more flexible then the others, thus the premium charge.

 

I WOULD SUGGEST YOU PEOPLE WITH QUESTIONS CALL WHITES DIRECT AND AVOID GETTING ALL THIS INTERNET CONJECTURE..

post #4000 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post
 

 

Yeah, definitely confusing...  Here's my understanding:  White's has always treated Brown Smooth and Brown Oil Tan as two different ways of referring to the same leather, which I think is the case.  But they have in the past seemed to treat British Tan and Classic Brown as two different leathers, and indeed send me samples of each labeled differently. They seemed very similar to me, but I didn't look too closely because they were not on my option list.  But then, a few months ago as I recall, someone on this board confirmed with White's that British Tan and Classic Brown were also the same leather.  But depending on who you talk to at White's, you sometimes get different answers.

 

Bottom line:  pretty sure that we have TWO leathers here only, Brown Oil Tan/Brown Smooth (the heavy stuff) on the one hand, and British Tan/Classic Brown on the other. 

 

Now, as to whether British Tan is a CXL leather... seems unclear, though I really don't think it is.

Just got an email response from White's confirming what you mentioned.. That the British Tan and the Classic Brown are the same leather.. So are the Brown Oil Tan and Brown Smooth. I have requested them to send me samples of these. 

post #4001 of 4591
I know the sizing questions have been beat to death, but I don't have anyof the popular boots that many have mentioned on this thread for sizing reference. I own two pairs of Red Wings, chukkas and pull-ons, both in a size 8. Does anyone have any experience to relate to the whites sizing?
post #4002 of 4591
What size do you wear in Chuck Taylor's?

Im a 10D on a brannock, wear a 10D in most everything including Whites SJs in the lace to toe pattern. But a 10D on the #55 last is big as a mother slugger. I'm a 9.5D-E on the 55 last
post #4003 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whacky View Post

So I finally decided to take the dive on a decent pair of boots. After doing a lot of research, I finally decided on a pair of White's.
I wanted a boot that was durable, long lasting, yet still retained some classic styling.

I ended up picking some custom White's Semi Dress.
I had no idea what size to pick, so I traced my foot and sent it directly to White's.
Went with:
-Semi Dress Brown Leather
-Single leather sole
-90 degree block heel, 1/4" lowered
-standard last
-antique eyes and hooks
-black leather lining

I just put the order in. I will give full details and pics when they arrive in 4 weeks.

However, in the meantime, I was wondering if anyone out there has also ordered custom White's in the past, and why they made their decisions, what they thought about them after they received them.
How they fit with the custom tracing, features, etc.

Pics would be awesome as well.

Thanks


Haven't ordered from them before but I'm sure if it's custom, then they will tailor them to your specs precisely.

post #4004 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieBailie View Post

Oil has more of a slik look vrs std tanning having a more semi gloss. The bull hide is not as "hard" as steer/cattle hide, thus the"soft" bs, It is as or more durable than the others and is softer because of the hide taking the process and not becoming stiff.

If one skins an animal and hangs it up it becomes stiff, if one processes leather it retains its elasticity. Bull hide is softer and more flexible then the others, thus the premium charge.

I WOULD SUGGEST YOU PEOPLE WITH QUESTIONS CALL WHITES DIRECT AND AVOID GETTING ALL THIS INTERNET CONJECTURE..

Exactly.
I have bullhide shafts on my BHs. Bullhide is one of the leathers that requires a lining because it is very flexible (which could also be described as "soft"). I certainly would not describe it as weak or less durable.
post #4005 of 4591
Quote:
Originally Posted by CityofChamps View Post

I know the sizing questions have been beat to death, but I don't have anyof the popular boots that many have mentioned on this thread for sizing reference. I own two pairs of Red Wings, chukkas and pull-ons, both in a size 8. Does anyone have any experience to relate to the whites sizing?


Gosh, I thought that is why Whites' attempts to require you to send in measurements, so "the guy on the internet telling me size" is NOT ordered and IS the cause for the boots not fitting.......Yea they answer the telephone and mail instructions on how to do it.

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