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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 262

post #3916 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogili222 View Post
 

Now the only thing I have to decide is if I should go with the lining or not. Whites said that the lining they use is 4 oz. What exactly is the use of the lining in boots? Is it for insulation? Does it make the boots too warm to wear in the summer? What are some of the other pros and cons of the lining? 

 

 

The lining is used for various reasons - some leathers inside are rougher than others, some more delicate (water buffalo), some oiled and hence it serves various functions. I would not say it serves as insulation as such, but as an extra layer, could have some effect. I don't think it changes the boots feel in the summer, on the contrary it helps to absorb moisture. It`s an extra layer that helps takes your foots form, and I find gives a better fit. Some prefer the liner, some don't. I personally do, and find the white/beige is super supple, and extra comfortable.

 

post #3917 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post
 

 

As far as tracings, they definitely do not always work.  I sent mine, and White's recommended 9.5D, but I had just tried that on and it was quite tight. Then tried on an SJ in 9.5E and THAT was tight.  Ended up with 9.5EE, though I think in the SD last 9.5E would have been fine.

Hear hear. Whites first advised a 10D, and I ordered with them...I was floating in those...not even a thick hiking sock could correct them. I`m now fitting comfortably in a 9D. And guess what, I had to try the 9 1/2 at my own expense too...two sizes out! Not happy about this. Nothing better than a brick and mortar fitting.

post #3918 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogili222 View Post
 

... Called Whites and they said that the British Tan is a CXL leather in 4-6 oz. So took that out of the choices as I wanted the heavier leather...

 

I am as sure as I can be that the British Tan is NOT a CXL.  I mean, one hates to contradict White's themselves, but the truth is they are pretty sloppy sometimes in their question-answering.  I have always understood, and I think others will know too, that the British Tan is the same as Classic Brown, and that it is not a chromed leather.  It is a nice, light brown, and I don't know enough about leather tanning to know how it is processed, but I am pretty darn sure it is not CXL and would not have the stretching or fast wear of CXL...

post #3919 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by broken_oracle View Post

hmm. Haven't yet contacted Baker's about an order, but was hoping I'd be able to have them send White's boots to try on in the requested size, width & last before a custom ordered is placed. Sounds like folks here have done that before... I assume some deposit/purchase or at least credit card info is first required.

 

Pretty sure Baker's will make you pay full price for a try on, but guarantee refund. But they don't seem to have a full stock of boots to send.  I had to try on a 10" or so SJ with big lug sole and heels to try to get a sense for my SD order.  It helped, but not nearly the same thing.

post #3920 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

I am as sure as I can be that the British Tan is NOT a CXL.  I mean, one hates to contradict White's themselves, but the truth is they are pretty sloppy sometimes in their question-answering.  I have always understood, and I think others will know too, that the British Tan is the same as Classic Brown, and that it is not a chromed leather.  It is a nice, light brown, and I don't know enough about leather tanning to know how it is processed, but I am pretty darn sure it is not CXL and would not have the stretching or fast wear of CXL...
Empty Garage JP advertises british tan as horween cxl, so I'm just plain confused!!

http://emptygarage.jp/smp/list.php?type=class&group=115037&sort=normal&pict=2&page=1
post #3921 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by b-ewing View Post


Empty Garage JP advertises british tan as horween cxl, so I'm just plain confused!!

http://emptygarage.jp/smp/list.php?type=class&group=115037&sort=normal&pict=2&page=1

 

Well, I certainly don't know for sure, but all their other CXL they clearly labeled as such, and they charge (or at least used to) an extra charge for the CXL, but do neither of these things for Br Tan.  And I am holding now my samples of Bl CXL, Br CXL, and Burgundy CXL, along with Br Tan, and the others all stretch easily when pulled, whereas the Br Tan does not.  It does however have a natural, untanned back and edge, but so do some of the other non-CXL leathers.  Anyway...

post #3922 of 5032
I'm sold... Thx for the info
post #3923 of 5032
I received some leather samples from Bakers; Brown oil tan, Distressed, Brown CXL, and British tan. The brown oil and distressed are not 'stretchy' at all, but the British tan to my surprise has almost the same feel and thickness as the CXL. Kyle at Bakers told me that the distressed, brown oil and Brit tan would be the best for work boots, but I would not use the British tan in a 'rough' environment IMO.

Other notes: the Distressed feels almost dry and scratches easily with no give when pulled. Brown oil is by far the thickest and feels bulletproof with no give or stretch when pulled.

I don't have a great pic of the leathers, but east west apparel's website has some good photos.
post #3924 of 5032
post #3925 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by CityofChamps View Post

I received some leather samples from Bakers; Brown oil tan, Distressed, Brown CXL, and British tan. The brown oil and distressed are not 'stretchy' at all, but the British tan to my surprise has almost the same feel and thickness as the CXL. Kyle at Bakers told me that the distressed, brown oil and Brit tan would be the best for work boots, but I would not use the British tan in a 'rough' environment IMO.

Other notes: the Distressed feels almost dry and scratches easily with no give when pulled. Brown oil is by far the thickest and feels bulletproof with no give or stretch when pulled.

I don't have a great pic of the leathers, but east west apparel's website has some good photos.

Now I am confused. East West Apparel has different samples for Brown Smooth, Brown Oil Tan and Classic Brown and they look different too. Are these really different leathers? Which one of these is the heavy 7-8 oz leather that White's uses. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by daizawaguy View Post
 

The lining is used for various reasons - some leathers inside are rougher than others, some more delicate (water buffalo), some oiled and hence it serves various functions. I would not say it serves as insulation as such, but as an extra layer, could have some effect. I don't think it changes the boots feel in the summer, on the contrary it helps to absorb moisture. It`s an extra layer that helps takes your foots form, and I find gives a better fit. Some prefer the liner, some don't. I personally do, and find the white/beige is super supple, and extra comfortable.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post
 

 

I am as sure as I can be that the British Tan is NOT a CXL.  I mean, one hates to contradict White's themselves, but the truth is they are pretty sloppy sometimes in their question-answering.  I have always understood, and I think others will know too, that the British Tan is the same as Classic Brown, and that it is not a chromed leather.  It is a nice, light brown, and I don't know enough about leather tanning to know how it is processed, but I am pretty darn sure it is not CXL and would not have the stretching or fast wear of CXL...

 

Thank you @daizawaguy and @lanafelt. 

post #3926 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogili222 View Post
 

Now I am confused. East West Apparel has different samples for Brown Smooth, Brown Oil Tan and Classic Brown and they look different too. Are these really different leathers? Which one of these is the heavy 7-8 oz leather that White's uses. 

 

 

 

 

Thank you @daizawaguy and @lanafelt. 

 

Yeah, definitely confusing...  Here's my understanding:  White's has always treated Brown Smooth and Brown Oil Tan as two different ways of referring to the same leather, which I think is the case.  But they have in the past seemed to treat British Tan and Classic Brown as two different leathers, and indeed send me samples of each labeled differently. They seemed very similar to me, but I didn't look too closely because they were not on my option list.  But then, a few months ago as I recall, someone on this board confirmed with White's that British Tan and Classic Brown were also the same leather.  But depending on who you talk to at White's, you sometimes get different answers.

 

Bottom line:  pretty sure that we have TWO leathers here only, Brown Oil Tan/Brown Smooth (the heavy stuff) on the one hand, and British Tan/Classic Brown on the other. 

 

Now, as to whether British Tan is a CXL leather... seems unclear, though I really don't think it is.


Edited by linafelt - 6/12/14 at 10:10am
post #3927 of 5032

Speaking of leathers: Does anybody know the difference between the "oil" and non-oil varieties of bullhide? There's lots of examples for both in the leather samples page linked above. I like the look of the bullhide grain but have read that it is a relatively soft leather – which I wouldn't want in a boot. OTOH, there's some SJ owners that described their BH as being almost brutally tough – which I would definitely prefer;-)

Could it be that the difference is due to there being two different tanning processes, where "oil" Bullhide stands for oil tan and results in the notorious toughness that we know from the standard brown or black oil tan, whereas the non-oil types have that softer feel?

post #3928 of 5032

Oil has more of a slik look vrs std tanning having a more semi gloss. The bull hide is not as "hard" as steer/cattle hide, thus the"soft" bs, It is as or more durable than the others and is softer because of the hide taking the process and not becoming stiff.

 

If one skins an animal and hangs it up it becomes stiff, if one processes leather it retains its elasticity. Bull hide is softer and more flexible then the others, thus the premium charge.

 

I WOULD SUGGEST YOU PEOPLE WITH QUESTIONS CALL WHITES DIRECT AND AVOID GETTING ALL THIS INTERNET CONJECTURE..

post #3929 of 5032
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post
 

 

Yeah, definitely confusing...  Here's my understanding:  White's has always treated Brown Smooth and Brown Oil Tan as two different ways of referring to the same leather, which I think is the case.  But they have in the past seemed to treat British Tan and Classic Brown as two different leathers, and indeed send me samples of each labeled differently. They seemed very similar to me, but I didn't look too closely because they were not on my option list.  But then, a few months ago as I recall, someone on this board confirmed with White's that British Tan and Classic Brown were also the same leather.  But depending on who you talk to at White's, you sometimes get different answers.

 

Bottom line:  pretty sure that we have TWO leathers here only, Brown Oil Tan/Brown Smooth (the heavy stuff) on the one hand, and British Tan/Classic Brown on the other. 

 

Now, as to whether British Tan is a CXL leather... seems unclear, though I really don't think it is.

Just got an email response from White's confirming what you mentioned.. That the British Tan and the Classic Brown are the same leather.. So are the Brown Oil Tan and Brown Smooth. I have requested them to send me samples of these. 

post #3930 of 5032
I know the sizing questions have been beat to death, but I don't have anyof the popular boots that many have mentioned on this thread for sizing reference. I own two pairs of Red Wings, chukkas and pull-ons, both in a size 8. Does anyone have any experience to relate to the whites sizing?
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