Nice boots, can you post the specs please?
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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 260post #3887 of 81986/10/14 at 2:12ampost #3888 of 81986/10/14 at 6:17ampost #3889 of 81986/10/14 at 6:28ampost #3890 of 81986/10/14 at 9:05amQuote:
From my understanding the BH has an SD last, but the FR is basically an SJ without the lugged sole. For example: I ordered SJ’s with a 700 sole which technically makes them FR’s.
So BH's fit like SD's and FR's fit like SJ’s.post #3891 of 81986/10/14 at 10:11amQuote:Like 4c says - a Smokejumper with any sole other than the Vibram 100 is called a Farmer/Rancher. Mine is a stock pair - I was in the US for a few days only and had to buy whatever was available in my size (saving the horrendous shipping and import duties that would otherwise have ocurred).post #3892 of 81986/10/14 at 10:14ampost #3893 of 81986/10/14 at 12:12pmQuote:
Yeah, I like to call mine Smokejumpers even though they are actually Bounty Hunters. The latter makes me feel too much like Reno Raines. And fortunately nobody I ever meet in the real world knows the difference.
Speaking of which, I am curious, do any of you ever run into anyone else wearing White's (or Viberg for that matter)? I only once ran into a guy with a pair of SDs, and we had a great conversation. Otherwise, it's only on the boards...post #3894 of 81986/10/14 at 2:10pm
Many thanks. Does anyone know whether one should go with the same size in both? SD to SJ or BH to FR? Both Plain toe, and not lace to toe, to keep it consistent, Thanks
Edited by daizawaguy - 6/10/14 at 2:26pmpost #3895 of 81986/10/14 at 2:42pmI've been lurking on this board for many months, and have by now read all 3,965 posts. Thank you all for the education, and especially the photos of various leathers & builds, links to extensive spec photos on Japanese sites, etc. Very helpful.
Finally have the money set aside to order a pair - of course right at the start of fire season when I'm sure build times are shooting up to 12 weeks or more - but am still undecided on the leather & two other options.
Leaning toward this build, as I've heard much about the superiority of horsehide over steer hide when it comes to natural water repellency & general toughness:
Leather 1: Brown Horse Hide
Leather 2: Brown Horse Hide
Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Horse Hide
Toe Cap Leather: No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box: Single (or maybe none?)
Safety Toe: No Thanks
Upper (Shaft) Leather : Brown Horse Hide
Leather Liner: Tan
Back Stay Leather: Brown Horse Hide
Pull Loop: No
Eyelet Color: Antique
Sole Trim: Close Trim
Eyelet Configuration : Hook and Eyelet
Sole: Vib 700
Half Slip: No
Heel Shape: Standard (Cuban)
Heel Height: Standard
Last: Standard (or maybe Swing Last, or C641?)
Midsole/Edge Color: Brown
Size - Length: 12
Size - Width: E
Plan on swapping out the laces to flat waxed ones, & ordering these via your famous Kyle At Baker's.
I work freelance as a fabricator & art handler in Chicago - I'm on my feet all day, in all seasons, and that can include anything from building custom crates in the woodshop to lifting those crates around boxtrucks & loading docks to hanging paintings in a millionaire's high-rise to hobnobbing at gallery openings. I don't own a car, and bike or walk/public-transit everywhere - unless I'm hauling art in a truck. Basically these feet see many miles, & I need a versatile pair of solid boots - something that can handle carpentry scuffs & rural art residencies but still brush-up decent for occassions where I'm surrounded by snobs & supermodels White's Semi-dress sounded like they'll fit the bill.
I used to wear a pair of Red Wing's "Gentleman Travelers" (#9013), but after 4 years, 2 re-solings ('Commando' half-soles suck!), and at least one hike up a volcano the leather's starting to crack over the ball of the right foot. Time to upgrade. I still have a pair of RW steel-toes (#3508) for welding or framing carpentry, but will replace those with rough-out Smokejumpers when the time comes. They never fit right anyhow, and steel toes are miserably cold in the winter.
Right now I'm wearing a vintage pair of moc-toe Chippewa boots I found at a second-hand store. They're a bit narrow for me and suck by the end of the day. Plus the right sole's starting to crack... I'll be needing new boots ASAP.
So my questions are:
1) Do any White's Brown Horse Hide owners have a year+ review of how that leather has held up? Any photos after a year or more of regular wear? Most of the HH pics I've seen on here seem to be fresh'out the box.
2) Should HH receive the same treatment as your usual steerhide? -In my case, initial saturation with Obenauf boot oil, then treatment with Obenauf's LP a couple times a year afterwards. Regular horsehair brushing & saddle soap as needed. Cedar shoe trees or at least stuffing with dry newspaper overnight to pull out the damp.
3) Would another brown leather straddle this work/fancy divide better - Brown Smooth, British Tan (doesn't seem to be an option on the Baker's Build-a-Boot site), Distressed Smooth, or Brown Dress?
(I've dealth with CXL before & don't consider it boot-worthy - great though for wallets, watchbands & such)
4) I hear White's requires a lining for horsehide boots. Choices are black, white, or tan - do these all breathe equally well? Don't know if those are truly just different color options or also different hides/tanning processes. I'm very rarely in air conditioning during the summer months; that's the main reason I went to unlined all-leather boots in the first place.
5) I'm right at the verge of a D/E width, but my last couple pairs of boots have really been tight, width-wise, at the ball of my foot so I'd like to go wide on these. People seem to hate on the Swing Last without much reason, what gives? Sounds like it'd be more comfortable for walking/lifting all day. For the same reason I'm considering ditching the Celastic toe liner. Anyone who actually works in White's have thoughts on lasts & Celastic toe from a functional-comfort perspective?
So that's it. Thanks for reading this essay!
Edited by broken_oracle - 6/10/14 at 4:08pmpost #3896 of 81986/10/14 at 3:39pmQuote:
My experience has been to go tts on SJ and half size down on SD
Edit- my SJs are lace to toe so maybe I'm not a good point of referencepost #3897 of 81986/10/14 at 3:51pmQuote:
I can't comment on most of what you asked since I don't own any HH boots, but on the width issue, if it was me personally, I would go with the E width if you're on the border between widths. It might seem counter-intuitive, but wool socks are cooler in summer because they wick perspiration away. If the width is slightly large, I would just wear a thicker wool sock. You need socks with high wool content (I'd say over 70%, the higher the better). I am slowly changing over to wool socks for wear with boots as any old socks of mine wear out.post #3898 of 81986/10/14 at 4:06pmYup I'm already president of the National Wool Council. I usually go with Redhead hunting socks, or SmartWool/REI when they come up on sale. Have a few pairs of GoldToe 'PowerSox' padded cotton boot socks for real hot days.
http://blogs.basspro.com/blog/bass-pro-shops-harrisburg-pa/redhead-lifetime-guarantee-sockspost #3899 of 81986/10/14 at 5:20pmQuote:Originally Posted by broken_oracle
Yup I'm already president of the National Wool Council. I usually go with Redhead hunting socks, or SmartWool/REI when they come up on sale. Have a few pairs of GoldToe 'PowerSox' padded cotton boot socks for real hot days.
You gotta be kidding me! That is pretty cool. I have a few pairs of the RedHeads and I did buy them from Bass Pro. I will definitely buy more of them.post #3900 of 81986/10/14 at 5:33pmSocks: LLBean's light wool hiking socks are reasonably priced and have high merino wool content.
I'm going to be wearing my boots for work, although I am 80% in the office/meetings and only 20% on a construction site, and want to find a blend of tough and nice looking boot. Here are some I like. (None of these are my boots, just picked from google)
I like the smooth and rough out combo here.
This is just classic style.
But this soft toe farmer/rancher looks fantastic.
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