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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 211

post #3151 of 6066
classic work boots, mine has more rounded toe box.
post #3152 of 6066

I don't know how much difference there is "supposed" to be in the various lasts but I bought a pair of SJ's in an 11.5D and a pair of the Classic Work Boots in an 11.5D.  The SJ's are just about broken in and are very comfortable whilst the Classics are much tighter all the way around even though the classics do have plenty of room in the tow box.  The Classic's were much tighter than the SJ's when both were new.  The classics are taking about 3X longer to break in but are starting to feel pretty good.

 

The SJ's fit perfect with heavyweight socks when I first put them on then loosen up throughout the day especially if I do a lot of walking around in deep snow where they get real wet which has been the case for a few weeks now.  They were Obenhaufed and oiled a few times when new so they don't get soaked through.  Then after sitting all night they fit tighter at the beginning of the next day.  I usually have to re-lace them a couple of times during the day.

 

I never even knew what a "last' was until I started reading this forum.

post #3153 of 6066
What is your guys opinion on cowhide leather or the cxl leather for the semi dress boot. I currently own the wolverine 1000 mile. I'm sure glad I didn't pay full price for them because the veiny look from the cxl is getting terrible. Do the whites cxl do this as well? What about the cowhide?
post #3154 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloridafan93 View Post

What is your guys opinion on cowhide leather or the cxl leather for the semi dress boot. I currently own the wolverine 1000 mile. I'm sure glad I didn't pay full price for them because the veiny look from the cxl is getting terrible. Do the whites cxl do this as well? What about the cowhide?

CXL is also cowhide. White's CXL won't do it as readily, but it can still be a crapshoot. I think Wolverine and OSB use lower quality CXL, and so you'll see the awful-looking creasing. I haven't noticed these on my Vibergs, or as much as in the White's CXL pictures out there. Alden seems to do it much less, but it happens occasionally.

post #3155 of 6066

As far as SJ vs SD in toebox room, I can only say that I tried on a pair of SJs for sizing from Baker's, and they were MUCH tighter in the toes than I anticipated, and seemed tighter than the SDs I had tried on.  Though certainly the pics above would indicate otherwise, so I don't know...  Though there again ben2t's appear wider than the emptygarage pics.  Almost looks like that SJ from emptygarage is on the "Swing" last...

 

I think the C461 looks great, and I have gone ahead and ordered a pair of HH SDs in that last.  I will report back upon their arrival.

 

I also think that CXL is hit or miss.  Some clearly gets creasy quickly, with Viberg being the main exception.  But in any case, it is clearly a soft leather and picks up every little nick and ding, and definitely is susceptible to stretching.  (I have a pair of OSBs in natural CXL.)

post #3156 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

 

I also think that CXL is hit or miss.  Some clearly gets creasy quickly, with Viberg being the main exception.  But in any case, it is clearly a soft leather and picks up every little nick and ding, and definitely is susceptible to stretching.  (I have a pair of OSBs in natural CXL.)

I haven't noticed much in the way of stretching for my Vibergs. Maybe it's the thickness of the leather, or the lining mitigated it. I'm also not sure if Viberg pre-stretches anything. I know Nicholas Hollows does that for his CXL belts.

post #3157 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by misterjuiceman View Post
 

I haven't noticed much in the way of stretching for my Vibergs. Maybe it's the thickness of the leather, or the lining mitigated it. I'm also not sure if Viberg pre-stretches anything. I know Nicholas Hollows does that for his CXL belts.

 

Viberg's leathers definitely seem of a higher quality than most, and I bet the lining helps a lot too.

post #3158 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by misterjuiceman View Post

CXL is also cowhide. White's CXL won't do it as readily, but it can still be a crapshoot. I think Wolverine and OSB use lower quality CXL, and so you'll see the awful-looking creasing. I haven't noticed these on my Vibergs, or as much as in the White's CXL pictures out there. Alden seems to do it much less, but it happens occasionally.

That's the thing. I don't want it to be a crapshoot. I have already missed on these wolverine 1000 miles, and if I buy another pair, especially for around 400, I don't want trash. Just curious, whats your thoughts on the whites non cxl leathers? Do they get the veiny creases?
post #3159 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloridafan93 View Post


That's the thing. I don't want it to be a crapshoot. I have already missed on these wolverine 1000 miles, and if I buy another pair, especially for around 400, I don't want trash. Just curious, whats your thoughts on the whites non cxl leathers? Do they get the veiny creases?

Wolverine's does it much more readily than others. I wasn't enamored with the leathers I felt from White's. The dress leather and dry tan leather from White's was plasticky. The oil tanned leathers were fine, some thinner than others---I believe that the leather they use for the harvest roughout is oil tanned, and I liked that as a roughout, but it's thinner than the black and distressed roughouts. I don't think the "veiny creases" that you found on your Wolverine will be common with White's, and I don't recall ever seeing them on non-CXL leathers from them. I've seen it on Nick's non-CXL standard offerings, so I suppose it could happen.

post #3160 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloridafan93 View Post

Just curious, whats your thoughts on the whites non cxl leathers? Do they get the veiny creases?

None of my three pairs of White's have those creases. Every pair of Red Wings I have owned have had them. The Wolverines I've seen seem to be a similar quality to Red Wing.
post #3161 of 6066
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloridafan93 View Post


That's the thing. I don't want it to be a crapshoot. I have already missed on these wolverine 1000 miles, and if I buy another pair, especially for around 400, I don't want trash. Just curious, whats your thoughts on the whites non cxl leathers? Do they get the veiny creases?

 

There's a lot of pics of the brown dress leather well-worn, and it always looks great.  I assume the black would too, though you don't see as many pics.  Seems like Whites CXL does not get the creases as much, but just gets the standard CXL early evo wear -- that is, scuffed up easily, etc.  Black and brown oil tan seem to age well...

post #3162 of 6066
The wrinkles that you're talking about are loose grain. Typically you find that on the belly section of a hide, and good makers will avoid using it. A lot of the "seconds" and "blemish" discounted boots you see will have portions of loose grain.

Every side has a belly section, so it's not a chromexcel thing, it's just a hide selection thing. Good chromexcel from the better parts of a side doesn't do that. There are a lot of makers using entire sides of second quality chromexcel that are pretty much ALL loose grain, but that's more common with carry goods, not boots.

Basically when you see loose grain on a boot, it's a cost cutting measure. In order to be as efficient as possible, the pressure is always on to sneak portions of belly into products. Leather sells by the foot, so the more belly you throw away, the higher the pricetag goes.

I've yet to see any White's or Vibergs with obvious loose grain, in Chromexcel or any other leather.
post #3163 of 6066

Good info, thanks for that.

Josh accepted my order today.

 

1×    White's Semi Dress
1×    Brown Dress Leather
1×    Single Celastic Toe Box
1×    Brown Dress Toe Cap
1×    Tan (Reddish Brown) Leather Liner
1×    No Pull Loop
1×    All Brass Eyelets
1×    Standard Trim Sole
1×    #269 Sole

 

I've got funny (more hm than ha ha) feet that I've decided are worth the upcharge for a custom last.

Narrow heel and wide forefoot.

I've also decided on the Swing Last, not a popular choice here I realize, but I want that extra bit of room on the outside where my small toes often feel the pinch.

post #3164 of 6066
hey guys, really enjoying this thread. I'm recently getting really interested in Whites and Nick's boots. I'm not a logger, firefighter, packer etc...I just appreciate the craftsmanship, leathers, fit and look of these boots.

Today I've got a 2-tone brown/red dog packer. Just treated with Obenauf's. The arch in the right is bugging me a little but left is perfect.
Look forward to seeing more pics of everybody's collection...and I've got a few more models to post soon.

post #3165 of 6066

Thanks to Kyle once again at Bakers for help putting these together.

 

690C Packer

Natural CXL

Natural Edge

Single Leather Sole

Celastic Toe

Six Brass Eyes, Three Hooks

Leather Laces

 

Super comfortable right out of the box. The Packer boot is incredible. I had an old, beat-up pair of packers and always liked the fit so I gave these a try in a dressier leather. I also added a couple more rows of eyes to hide the hooks when worn. Classic workboot vibe.

 

I can't wait for the leather to develop a little patina.

 

Just perfect.

 

 

 


Edited by SkyShot - 2/15/14 at 9:57am
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