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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts? - Page 176

post #2626 of 5817
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

I confess that this is mostly above my paygrade.  I thought White's was stitched-down as well...  But I am pretty sure that Viberg's can be resoled without replacing the upper; lots of folks talk about getting them done...

In any case, I certainly wouldn't question the toughness or durability of White's, though aesthetically there does seem to be some quality control issues on occasion.  Not a big deal for work boots of course, where looks are secondary to functionality.

Like I said, I'm just giving my opinion of liking the White's welt better. Both types can be resoled several times, but the portion of the welt you see sewn through on White's is a strip of leather sewn to the rest of the leather upper. The strip can be replaced once it has too many holes in it That is the gist of a "Goodyear welt". On the Vibergs, the portion of the welt you see sewn to the sole is just the upper leather turned outwards, pressed flat, and sewn to the sole.

The welts in both cases are sewn and glued, and really are about the same waterproofness. The issue that bothers me is where the welt ends by the arch. The White's Goodyear welt has the strip sewn down, and the rest of the upper forms a booty that is folded in under your foot. On the Viberg, the upper has a notch cut in it to allow it to fold under at the end of the welt seam. If care isn't taken during assembly there can be an actual gap at this point, and that would be the area most likely to allow water in.

I'm insane when it comes to this stuff, so who knows if it has any affect in the real world beyond my delusions. smile.gif White's, Viberg, and Wesco all have excellent reputations.

Andy B.
post #2627 of 5817
Quote:
Originally Posted by b-ewing View Post

Just arrived!!

Wonderful choice! They look perfect!

post #2628 of 5817
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy b. View Post


I don't own a pair of Viberg boots, and honestly I have no experience with them. I just want to point out one thing. The welt on the Vibergs is the same as Wesco (and I do own several pairs of Wesco boots). The Viberg welt is a stitch-down welt. The White's welt is a traditional Goodyear welt. Now this is just my opinion, and of course everyone knows what it is about opinions, but the traditional Goodyear welt takes more steps to manufacture, and from what I have found is more waterproof. One of the reasons I don't own more pairs of Wesco boots is because personally I dislike the stitch-down welt. I also feel that if a rebuild was necessary, the portion of the Goodyear welt that is sewn to the sole can be sewn through several times before replacing it. On the stitch-down welt, the portion of the welt sewn to the sole is part of the leather upper, and the only way to replace it is to replace the upper.

I'm just tossing my biased opinion out there. biggrin.gif

Andy B.

This isn't true, and Goodyear-welted shoes don't necessarily require more steps to manufacture, especially with the use of gemming. As far as I know, boots like these take longer to construct than a Goodyear-welted boot, and I think, in general, a basic Goodyear-welted boot is less waterproof than an offering from Viberg or White's. 

post #2629 of 5817
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

A classic! They really look great with the jeans...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4characters View Post

Wonderful choice! They look perfect!

Thx boys!! I'm really digging the brown dress leather. And did I mention double leather soles?? biggrin.giftongue.gif
post #2630 of 5817
Nice classic boot B. Double leather sole looks spot on. .....and on to your next pair... smile.gif
post #2631 of 5817
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastWestApparel View Post

Nice classic boot B. Double leather sole looks spot on. .....and on to your next pair... smile.gif

 

I agree, the double leather sole on these is a little thing that makes a big difference. Balances out the boot very nicely I think...

post #2632 of 5817
The sole and heel details completely define the way a boot looks. I'm like a total obsessive with mapping out my builds, but to me it's as much about the process as the end result.

Next up: soft toe roughouts!
post #2633 of 5817
LeftysRock,

Great shelf! I may now have to consider getting me a "boot" shelf!

Frankman
post #2634 of 5817
B, White's don't offer Natural CXL rough out, smooth only, haven't gotten into the why's and wherefores they just said we don't offer it. Will let them know of the potential demand though.
post #2635 of 5817
^^ thx buddy. Frustrating. So all in all distressed roughout is probably the closest in color to natty CXL roughout?

Distressed


Natural CXL


Some pics I've seen of harvest make me think it'd work but then other shots, not so sure

As example, all three of these are described as ring made out of harvest roughout




post #2636 of 5817
Quote:
Originally Posted by b-ewing View Post

^^ thx buddy. Frustrating. So all in all distressed roughout is probably the closest in color to natty CXL roughout?

Distressed


Natural CXL


Some pics I've seen of harvest make me think it'd work but then other shots, not so sure

As example, all three of these are described as ring made out of harvest roughout




Out of the pictures you posted, this 

is the most accurate representation of harvest. Keep in mind it's a bit thinner than the black oil and distressed roughouts. 

post #2637 of 5817
Agree with mjm B, the distressed is quite accurate aswell, it may be a shade lighter in daylight but.... Nat CXL RO darkens pretty quick also. Prefer the distressed, less orangey. Sent the popular suggestion to White's.
post #2638 of 5817

I notice one of the available options on White's is the top lace garment - either a hook or an eye. I usually see an eye as the top garment for speed hook work boots, but I'm not really sure the advantage. Does the top eye help prevent them from completely delacing if they come untied or something? It is faster for me to lace my hiking boots which have no top eyes, but admittedly if they come untied, there are only 2 or 3 rows of speed hooks to come undone. Maybe for a taller work boot the top eye saves a lot of relacing. If not, I'd rather just have hooks to the top. Anyone know?

post #2639 of 5817
This trend of chromexcel rough out is silly.

When you reverse chromexcel you hide its best qualities and amplify its drawbacks.
post #2640 of 5817
@Misterjuiceman and EastWest, thx for the input. i think distressed is the way to go. In fact it may be an even better option than natty cxl roughout becuase its a bit thicker. I'm probably going to go for unlined, so a little extra thickness would be nice.

@Hollows, i hear ya in regards to the wasted opportunity in evo of some smooth side natty CXL. In fact, I am heavily weighing whether I should just bite your style on your build. My photo library is all stacked up with your feet pics- haha!

But speaking as someone looking for a natural shaded roughout that most closely resembles WWII era service shoes, it seems to be about the most accurate (in terms of color) material available these days.

And concerning patina development, its like comparing apples to oranges IMO. You develop a completely different type of patina on roughout leather as you would on its smooth side counterpart.

That said, I sure as shit have no intention on ever ordering reverse shell anytime soon!!
Edited by b-ewing - 11/19/13 at 9:21pm
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