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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever. - Page 2136post #32026 of 548036/25/13 at 11:18ampost #32027 of 548036/25/13 at 11:22ampost #32028 of 548036/25/13 at 11:45amPayment sent for Dark Brown Goat A-2 with half-length V-quilted placket flap and no suede name tag.
chest (pit-to-pit) 21.7"
body length, front 22.0"
body length, back 24.2"
sleeve length, from shoulder 26
sleeve width @ pit 7.6"
sleeve width @ elbow 6.7"
sleeve width @ cuff 5.7
thanks to Charly and everyone who helped with their knowledge.
BCDR order to follow.post #32029 of 548036/25/13 at 11:50amQuote:Originally Posted by dieworkwear
Thanks, Willy. Just to be sure, the RLPL/ Tom Ford/ Loro Piana leathers I've handled tend to be very soft, smooth, and slightly rubbery. Is ToJ's the same? I'm actually looking for something less luxe feeling and a bit more robust. Is goat similar to lamb, but just pebbled, or does it have a completely different hand?
What Drew has said about the goat:Quote:Originally Posted by impolyt_one
We've only made one goatskin jacket so far, that one for aeglus. Didn't have any access to goat previously and this new stuff is black and dark brown, which we'd not seen before. It's really nice, same texture and hand as aeglus's goat. Soft and slightly stretchy, but waterproof and slightly tougher seeming than the lamb. It will wear pretty hard without being as stiff and clunky as calf. It also has the really outgoing pebbled goatskin grain like aeglus' jacket, so it's definitely something different...Quote:Originally Posted by impolyt_one
Goatskin is allowable for Bombers, it would be good (though the brown is darker than the brown lamb) - I just like the idea of the 4 zip MDR in brown or black goat, it will be excellent. Trust me on this one. There are certain 'specials' now and then that come along as a result of the right meeting of design and material, and a 4-zip MDR in the super dark brown goat with brown-taped YKK's in silver is another one of them. We make a lot of nice stuff, but there's the few things that are just exceedingly NICE, like that whiskey 2010 DR we made for aeglus. I got to see that thing in person and it was pretty amazing. Blows up my ego to see stuff like that.
What I want to see is that dark brown goatskin 4-zip MDR with some age, maybe 3 months or more on it. It will look godly. Anybody who has to go back to college this coming fall should get one now so that it's perfectly worn-in by the time school starts, so you can style on campus plebes. Fuck, I wish I could be in college again... I'd leave a trail of styleless victims...Quote:Quote:Originally Posted by impolyt_one
We don't offer a choice on zips for the Bomber, it's had silver zips for over a year now. They work nicely. No nametag if you go goat for sure. A goat leather would shrug rain pretty well, but yes, goat has a texture that you need to be prepared for. It's very attractive but not smooth and silken like the lambskin or calf.Quote:Originally Posted by impolyt_one
of those, you'd want the 4-pocket Moto - need the top pockets to help break the visual expanse. They also define the chest a bit and at your height, would keep it from looking like leather curtains from your shoulders to your waist as they'd want to do otherwise.
materials wise, thinking maybe brown goat with the brown taped silver zips. Tough and thick enough to take a little abuse, lighter than calf and better out of the box feel. Completely classical, and no rib or fur to have to match to it - nice matchup. THe brown goat might fade and the whole thing would look vintage-y.Quote:Originally Posted by impolyt_one
Goat = soft, textured all over, slightly water resistant
Lamb = insanely soft, usually smooth (with some natural graining here and there) and not as water resistant. The lamb, though, is the one that people put their hands on and can't get enough of. I think as most can attest to here, the TOJ lamb will make you new friends, whether you want it to, or not.
Zippers: prefer the look of the silver, and the one-way operation is lighter and smoother than the two-way antiques. I just prefer them a whole lot more. It's worth considering what color leather you want first though, and then deciding on the zipper color.
We haven't set it in stone yet, but me and Charly were doing numbers and it's somewhere between those two figures. We haven't figured in a foreign exchange loss rate yet, so still subject to change.Quote:Originally Posted by impolyt_one
lamb is soft, almost oily sometimes, with a 'cool' hand feel that is meaty - and then goat has a very cold (probably one of the coldest of them all) handfeel due to the pebble grain and it feels more lacquered and slick. Also, a bit tougher feeling, but when made up, it's still a soft jacket.post #32030 of 548036/25/13 at 12:27pmpost #32031 of 548036/25/13 at 1:03pmpost #32032 of 548036/25/13 at 1:12pmpost #32033 of 548036/25/13 at 3:08pmpost #32034 of 548036/25/13 at 3:56pmIn for my last ToJ jacket: BCDR in the diesel blue suede with single-needle diamond quilting. This will go with a blacked-out lamb ADR and bottle green/silver 4-zip moto I got last year.
Just checked, and I ordered my first piece from ToJ back at the beginning of 2010: OCBDv1 and the original peacoat in black-white herringbone. Still things I wear regularly now (well, in the right season).post #32035 of 548036/25/13 at 4:02pmpost #32036 of 548036/25/13 at 6:58pmpost #32037 of 548036/25/13 at 8:06pmpost #32038 of 548036/25/13 at 9:26pmpost #32039 of 548036/25/13 at 10:26pmpost #32040 of 548036/25/13 at 10:59pmQuote:
- The Buyer's Guide to Fall Jackets
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