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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever. - Page 1560
Styleforum Top Pickspost #23387 of 5403510/14/12 at 10:11ampost #23388 of 5403510/14/12 at 10:13ampost #23389 of 5403510/14/12 at 10:15ampost #23390 of 5403510/14/12 at 10:32ampost #23391 of 5403510/14/12 at 10:35ampost #23392 of 5403510/14/12 at 10:36amThread Startergoing back to some pertinent posts real quick -
- still want to make more MA-1's, but in a new style. No reprise. Like everything, don't want to put it out unless I feel it's truly ready, and often times those things just happen without pushing much. Pushing the issue never seems to make them come out the way I want them, so i'm trying to avoid that.
- Yes, I wear Heat Tech pretty religiously in the winter, though I get a little cold naturally. I think as I get older and wear longer sleeves and stuff in summer, I've transposed my body heat to be a little lower in winter too; YMMV. I wear heat tech, a shirt, a sweater or knit of some sort, and then a leather or a coat (wore the TOJ peacoat last winter) and that's fine for -10C weather, even if -20C-like winds as in Seoul. Korea is pretty fucking cold, it gets like Chicago without as much miserable precipitation and moisture, possibly stronger winds sometimes though. If I had a Bomber still, I'd wear that with the HT, an OCBD, this SNS cardi I have, and then the jacket over and I'd be ok. I wear like 3 layers of the heat tech bottoms though, under jeans. Legs already get cold.Quote:Originally Posted by magicalporks
Drew - just curious since you mentioned omgcookielol's order a while back, how did you feel about this quilted mdr vs the stock qdr? I've been itching for a qdr for a while but I quite like the 3-zip configuration too.
This.... is basically a reworded form of something I talk about quite often in this thread, and the answer stays the same. It's worth repeating though, simply to keep things on track;
Essentially, there are sometimes options are there, in general, for something different. However, all are not created equal, nor can one take a salad bar approach to building a jacket with the details and all that. Just doesn't work. Patterns are unique and not shared, materials aren't always sympathetic or equal, etc.
What TOJ came from in the very beginning, and still works upon now is a simple premise, two, really - I want to make stuff that I'd wear myself but also hope for others to enjoy just as much, and then the second requirement is that I price them at somewhere so that I am not giving them away for free or paying people to take them, but still pricing them at a price that is unbeatable and an amount I myself would enjoy paying for the quality of product received. Each basic design in their stock design, in our well-known staple materials (ie black lamb, or brown lamb, or the same colors in calf or goat, or the limited stock leathers where I come back and say 'these will make nice jackets) - those are the house specialities. I get excited about those. If someone comes along and starts breaking them down, maybe subtracting features, and then adding other deviations? I'll be truly honest, I don't like that - either because I know for sure it won't turn out as well as the 'stock' set, or that I don't know if it will turn out well or not (speaking of limited materials here, or a makeup that is deviated from stock) - but in the latter case, usually not. There's a reason I do each thing in a design. It may not agree with all, but that's just the nature of setting up a product for manufacture. I'd never want to run absolutely true one-off, customer chooses everything-type setup - as hard as I'd try, people would get angry that something doesn't turn out 100% like they envisioned in their heads (and not mine) or photoshop, or frankly speaking, many things would just turn out to be abortions or abominations. If anyone has ever spent time in a bespoke suit shop and is into that, you'd realize how many things a shop does for other customers that aren't really that great and bad exercises of the shop's resources. I've sat in shops where they make suits for NBA stars, and that's easy to see - you sit there and look at these way maxed-out suits and think 'oh god, why'
Anyway, I don't want that to sound selfish, that it's all about my recipe and that no one can ask for their own tastes - it's related to a) feasibility and b) how far down that road we are going, whether I should stop someone from making an aesthetic mistake - after all, Charly and I tend the fort because they're our house style and so we need to make sure that people get what they want but also don't end up configuring something they might dislike in the end.
As I've always done, it's much like a restaurant - we don't work on a normal sales model and we embrace that, because I do believe in clothing being a personal thing that you should have real input in if it's something you're paying for, but there's definitely some general boundaries you shouldn't cross for your own sakes, and not ours. Even as one chooses the restaurant they go to , they should be asked at the beginning if there's something in particular they don't want or how the experience can be made better suited to them; we try to do something as feasibly similar as possible by offering some options. The sky is not the limit, but I feel the options often outnumber the actual ones I love personally, and that's alright. I feel a chef may feel the same way about what he is responsible for cooking.
About 12 years ago or something, the internet was taking off, 'interactive multimedia' was really coming to fruition - that led to websites where you can virtually pimp out any conceivable product; I understand the appeal, but I don't want to blow it wide open, as above. I mean, this is an extreme analogy, but you don't go to a French restaurant and ask the chef to make you Chinese food, just because. You obviously order up the stuff you want, and you can make substitutions and stuff here and there if they're logical - but still, the best experience, the one that is put together for the most satisfaction, those are the true house specialities.
Regarding the options, particularly materials - the staple materials nowadays should be known by now; I come across certain leathers and stuff that meet the quality standard I want to use; often times lately I let Daniel pick some out too, he's been at it for 3 years so he knows what's good. Sometimes options like that beige lamb creep in unannounced through the side door and they find their way onto the menu, and I don't always approve of them for what reason or another, but you know, not bad in their own right, just not what I want for a piece personally but they're there and sometimes people order them through. I just want it to be known that there is some sort of hierarchy of materials related to each piece and it's different per case, and that I try to make it clear which makeups are guaranteed to be good. The more deviations you go away from those, really, I don't want it to sound like 'I warned ya' but I also want to be truthful and say, I think the staple/suggested makeups are better IMO.post #23393 of 5403510/14/12 at 11:01ampost #23394 of 5403510/14/12 at 11:09ampost #23395 of 5403510/14/12 at 11:25ampost #23396 of 5403510/14/12 at 11:28ampost #23397 of 5403510/14/12 at 11:35amQuote:
Yeah, I've been toying with the idea of either a black or a whiskey or other lighter brown A2 for awhile now, but I'd really prefer it with a natural shearling if that's possible.post #23398 of 5403510/14/12 at 12:33pmpost #23399 of 5403510/14/12 at 12:46pmQuote:
I think Gbear's 4zip moto is the current whiskey calf
I have a 4zip MDR in whiskey calf on the waypost #23400 of 5403510/14/12 at 1:23pmQuote:
The dense and short haired shearling used by TOJ is much better in dark colors. Natural shearling looks better when long haired and a bit shaggy.
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