Wow, really? TOJ1s seem to be sized different though. All leathers, I'm in the 47/48 range. I couldn't comfortably fit in a 48. 5'9" 158-160.
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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever. - Page 1469post #22021 of 547828/15/12 at 10:56pmpost #22022 of 547828/15/12 at 11:00pmpost #22023 of 547828/15/12 at 11:08pmpost #22024 of 547828/16/12 at 12:20ampost #22025 of 547828/16/12 at 12:34amI think the trend has been to size up from what you would normally get from them. I'm like a size 45-46 in my TOJ leathers, and my TOJ1 is a size 48 (with 46 lengths, I think). We're similar height and weight, but I don't have a clue if your body is shaped differently. So go with a 48 (maybe with a smaller length - nothing smaller than 46 though) if you can.post #22026 of 547828/16/12 at 2:28ampost #22027 of 547828/16/12 at 3:28amThread StarterAlright jawn fiends, the shirt is coming along well, not sure how long the sample will take though.
In the end, decided to nix a few details so that it wouldn't be overbearingly expensive, nor overwrought in design. Again, I want it to be a classic shirt you will seriously want to keep forever, so it's looking like the short detail list we confirmed will be centered around these:
-pre shrunk Japanese selvedge fabric
-18 stitches per inch. Nice medium stitch that you can see. 21 stitches per inch was possible, but looked a little off. Brioni dress shirts use the 18spi, we were happy with what we saw.
-thick (I think 4mm or so) genuine mother of pearl buttons, handsewn with chickenfoot stitching
-single needle construction, small gusset
-full floating/non-fused interface in collar and cuffs. Both sides. Incredibly soft yet holds shape.
-machine sewn seams with hand-felled arm scyes. The scye seam is on machine, the fell seam is by hand.
Design is going to be as unfussy and classical as they come. Locker loop, box pleat. Fit will be slim but I'm straying away from the too-tapered/darted look. I'd like to take the silhouette back away from the hips.
I nixed the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs for cleanliness, and nixed the handsewn buttonholes for cost reasons (incredibly expensive) - had we done everything I talked about before, the price would have indeed neared $400, so that wasn't gonna happen. I promised smashwindow already.post #22028 of 547828/16/12 at 3:33ampost #22029 of 547828/16/12 at 6:57ampost #22030 of 547828/16/12 at 7:00ampost #22031 of 547828/16/12 at 7:01am
Sounds like the shirt is gonna be truly incredible, I'm excited to place my order.
I think if was a good call to get rid of some of those details like the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs, it would've been a bit much.
And wow, you weren't kidding about those buttons being thick, the only other shirt I've seen with buttons that thick are the ones by Barba.Quote:
Whose shirts would you compare the slimness to? Will it be anything like BoO or Gitman?
post #22032 of 547828/16/12 at 8:54am
Got my jackets in the mail today:
CM is calfskin. I feel like I would've been better off with lamb. The calf will take a while to break in.
Btw, anyone know how to mold the collar to something like these:
I feel like the collar looks a bit weird right now and if I'm able to mold it into something like in the 2 pics above, it would look better.post #22033 of 547828/16/12 at 9:11amI got a CM in calf as well, when I first got it I had my doubts about the calf vs lamb but you will see once it breaks in that it was the right choice, goes from looking like shiny rubber to the most badass material ever. Best thing I can relate it to is flexible pitch black hammered brass. As for the collar just take the tips and tug them down constantly for like a week, they will get softer from the oil in your hands and take whatever shape you pull them into.post #22034 of 547828/16/12 at 9:13am
I used some obenauf's leather oil and just went at it with my hands, then used some clips to keep it down for 1 night and voila!
I think Drew mentioned in the past that he just soaked the collar (in water), to make it more pliable and just molded it from there (not 100% sure).
As for the second picture you linked, it actually looks like the guy has snaps to keep the collar down like that.post #22035 of 547828/16/12 at 9:17amThread StarterI think I mentioned this before but no one took me seriously - wet
(if lamb) and condition if calf, saturate it til it's floppy, then use a large rubber band like that which you get on a bunch of broccoli from the supermarket, or a hipster girls headband. Hang it zipped up, collar closed that way overnight or for a couple nights, refresh as necessary -It will keep the collar held in the middle with that reverse roll.
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