Wow, really? TOJ1s seem to be sized different though. All leathers, I'm in the 47/48 range. I couldn't comfortably fit in a 48. 5'9" 158-160.
Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami,... Last post on Today at 2:30 pm in Streetwear and Denim
- Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? Last post on 9/21/16 at 4:54pm in Streetwear and Denim
- JUN HASHIMOTO AT PITTI 86 Last post on 9/12/14 at 1:58pm in Streetwear and Denim
- Looking for longer "military" style leather coat. Can't decide between Burberry or... Last post on 12/8/12 at 5:43pm in Classic Menswear
Styleforum visits De Bonne Facture at Paris Men's Week 2016
Last edited: 1/29/16
- The Buyer's Guide to Fall JacketsLast edited: 9/7/15
- Using Gliptone on your leather jacket - recommended or not? From...Last edited: 2/1/16
- The 2015 Buyer's Guide: OuterwearLast edited: 11/11/15
- Deals of the Week: October 5th, 2015Last edited: 10/6/15
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- H.N. White
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever. - Page 1469post #22021 of 547538/15/12 at 10:56pmpost #22022 of 547538/15/12 at 11:00pmpost #22023 of 547538/15/12 at 11:08pmpost #22024 of 547538/16/12 at 12:20ampost #22025 of 547538/16/12 at 12:34amI think the trend has been to size up from what you would normally get from them. I'm like a size 45-46 in my TOJ leathers, and my TOJ1 is a size 48 (with 46 lengths, I think). We're similar height and weight, but I don't have a clue if your body is shaped differently. So go with a 48 (maybe with a smaller length - nothing smaller than 46 though) if you can.post #22026 of 547538/16/12 at 2:28ampost #22027 of 547538/16/12 at 3:28amThread StarterAlright jawn fiends, the shirt is coming along well, not sure how long the sample will take though.
In the end, decided to nix a few details so that it wouldn't be overbearingly expensive, nor overwrought in design. Again, I want it to be a classic shirt you will seriously want to keep forever, so it's looking like the short detail list we confirmed will be centered around these:
-pre shrunk Japanese selvedge fabric
-18 stitches per inch. Nice medium stitch that you can see. 21 stitches per inch was possible, but looked a little off. Brioni dress shirts use the 18spi, we were happy with what we saw.
-thick (I think 4mm or so) genuine mother of pearl buttons, handsewn with chickenfoot stitching
-single needle construction, small gusset
-full floating/non-fused interface in collar and cuffs. Both sides. Incredibly soft yet holds shape.
-machine sewn seams with hand-felled arm scyes. The scye seam is on machine, the fell seam is by hand.
Design is going to be as unfussy and classical as they come. Locker loop, box pleat. Fit will be slim but I'm straying away from the too-tapered/darted look. I'd like to take the silhouette back away from the hips.
I nixed the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs for cleanliness, and nixed the handsewn buttonholes for cost reasons (incredibly expensive) - had we done everything I talked about before, the price would have indeed neared $400, so that wasn't gonna happen. I promised smashwindow already.post #22028 of 547538/16/12 at 3:33ampost #22029 of 547538/16/12 at 6:57ampost #22030 of 547538/16/12 at 7:00ampost #22031 of 547538/16/12 at 7:01am
Sounds like the shirt is gonna be truly incredible, I'm excited to place my order.
I think if was a good call to get rid of some of those details like the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs, it would've been a bit much.
And wow, you weren't kidding about those buttons being thick, the only other shirt I've seen with buttons that thick are the ones by Barba.Quote:
Whose shirts would you compare the slimness to? Will it be anything like BoO or Gitman?
post #22032 of 547538/16/12 at 8:54am
Got my jackets in the mail today:
CM is calfskin. I feel like I would've been better off with lamb. The calf will take a while to break in.
Btw, anyone know how to mold the collar to something like these:
I feel like the collar looks a bit weird right now and if I'm able to mold it into something like in the 2 pics above, it would look better.post #22033 of 547538/16/12 at 9:11amI got a CM in calf as well, when I first got it I had my doubts about the calf vs lamb but you will see once it breaks in that it was the right choice, goes from looking like shiny rubber to the most badass material ever. Best thing I can relate it to is flexible pitch black hammered brass. As for the collar just take the tips and tug them down constantly for like a week, they will get softer from the oil in your hands and take whatever shape you pull them into.post #22034 of 547538/16/12 at 9:13am
I used some obenauf's leather oil and just went at it with my hands, then used some clips to keep it down for 1 night and voila!
I think Drew mentioned in the past that he just soaked the collar (in water), to make it more pliable and just molded it from there (not 100% sure).
As for the second picture you linked, it actually looks like the guy has snaps to keep the collar down like that.post #22035 of 547538/16/12 at 9:17amThread StarterI think I mentioned this before but no one took me seriously - wet
(if lamb) and condition if calf, saturate it til it's floppy, then use a large rubber band like that which you get on a bunch of broccoli from the supermarket, or a hipster girls headband. Hang it zipped up, collar closed that way overnight or for a couple nights, refresh as necessary -It will keep the collar held in the middle with that reverse roll.
- The Buyer's Guide to Fall Jackets
- › Official Terrorist Bombing and Other Acts of Inhumanity Thread 17 seconds ago
- › Paul Smith Stripe Wallet 2 minutes ago
- › Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope) 3 minutes ago
- › Edward Green - mens Boots - 10.5E FINAL Drop 9-21 5 minutes ago
- › SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread 5 minutes ago
- › Rubinacci "...Best Bespoke Tailor on Earth..." article 6 minutes ago
- › The What Are You Wearing Today (WAYWT) Discussion Thread, Part II 8 minutes ago
- › Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. 12 minutes ago
- › Suitsupply NYC 15 minutes ago
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 15 minutes ago
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Lasalle Dress Shoes by Lobster33
- › Clark Street Casual Shoes by Lobster33
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...