that thing looks well made, but the actual importance of things matching up and doing what they are gonna do took second seat here. For example. the leather looks ok and the main and horizontal zippers are Riri, but the verticals are YKK. The pulls don't even match up. In the classical LL version (which the TOJ is based upon) the pocket zippers are most definitely all matching. The Japanese have been doing this a lot lately, because the Riris are expensive to import and the YKKs are local; TOJ buys YKK at import so it really doesnt make a big difference to us, we'd just have to wait half an eternity to get Riris. The office uses faxes and actual paperwork to do real business to, they take forever.
I want it to go to about half handwork and then the vital seams by machine, the same that you would expect from a top-level ready-made European dress shirt. The sleeveheads, cuffs, yokes - it will be apparent they are attached by hand when you look at them. Up close, like a European dress shirt, you will see the pickstitch around the scye and shoulder. Buttonholes will probably be darned by hand, buttons will be chickenfooted on. The sides will have proper gussets, and a nice single needle stitch in two parts (body and sleeve single-needled separately) - cuffs and collars will have full floating interface. We are talking the full meal deal. Add in Japanese selvedge oxford cloth and the thickest pure MOP dished buttons I've ever seen on any shirt.
There's a problem forming; the shirts are going to be at such a high level, where I will need to bring everything else up to the appropriate level if I want any kind of consistency. Looks like I have some work to do. This is how I want TOJ to be, going forward though. Similar to what you know, but I'm looking for that next level.
D....this gives me a full on stiffy. such great stuff!!