It's a fantastic design. There's two reasons it looks like shit on a lot of people that pick one up:
- It's cut with a ten inch drop, which not a lot of people can pull off. Most of the guys that I've seen post bad fits with one had a slight beer gut.
- It looks better a little oversized up top, and again, most of the shitty fit pics went super slim fit in the chest/shoulders.
You don't have to be super skinny to wear it well, but it is still pretty body fascist in terms of the cut.
somewhat agree/disagree with this, here's my take on that jacket:
1) there's basically two versions in my mind - the original cut, with the older Italian hardware that we'll call 'a', and then the updated cut with the YKK stuff which we'll call 'b'. There is a noticeable difference between the two patterns I feel. The changeover happened at Spring 2007, I believe.
2) I don't have a 'b' version so my experience is limited to 'a' - 'a' is cut very boxy and does not have a severe drop. It's probably around 4-5" or so in the smaller sizes and maybe 7" if a larger size, I'm guesstimating there but bear with me.
The sleeves are wide, probably 8 or 9" across the bicep. That is for a size 46 that only measures something like 20.5" down the front. If you've ever ordered a TOJ jacket, you'd never come close to those kinds of proportions, they'd look horrible.
The only reason that the MMM can even pull off these proportions is that the front hardware is all chunky and very prominent. As you can see, 'b' went to more subtle hardware and the proportions were adjusted quite a bit.
'a' is meant to be worn in a classical way, and doesn't necessarily work in terms of how people expect a leather jacket to fit in 2012. Yes, a lot of fits of this jacket suck, and it's because people pick it up from the early 2000's but want it to fit like it were a successive piece in their line of Dior Homme>Rick Owens>Julius>etc tight-fitting things, and they size the jacket way too precisely. Look at the numbers again, and you will see that it's not meant to fit that way. I wear mine dropping off the shoulder, the sleeves are huge - but the lengths look right on me, and the leather crinkles up and takes up the slack anyway. It's a leather jacket, not a suit jacket.
'b' in my mind is just a leather jacket in contemporary terms. The design is there, but not done as well as 'a' and the fit has become genericized to cater to the above expectations, and that's why you hardly ever see 'b' looking that good. It's just not really the same jacket as 'a'
You don't have to be skinny to wear 'a' or 'b' - that isn't really the point, so much. That is just a point in general - skinny people pull off more dramatic appearances with regards to clothing.