What makes the MDR especially difficult to pull off with jeans and a t-shirt?
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Styleforum Top Pickspost #30692 of 499305/20/13 at 1:45ampost #30693 of 499305/20/13 at 2:43amNot a fan of the whole versatility argument - I'd rather buy my first choice and build a fit around that, than buy something more versatile for more pedestrian fits. Feels kind of uninspired to me, but it's your money and that's just my opinion.
I think the problem with some raw denim fits is that the jeans already look/fit like crap. A leather jacket doesnt make a bad fit better. Drew seems to wear raws with all of the sample/preview pics, and his are definitely the best in the A2 part of the gallery.post #30694 of 499305/20/13 at 2:49amQuote:
Looks perfect to me. Personal preference, but I prefer no stacking in the sleevesQuote:
Huh? Thats like 95% rider fits though?
Edited by chv7 - 5/20/13 at 5:19pmpost #30695 of 499305/20/13 at 6:12ampost #30696 of 499305/20/13 at 7:50ampost #30697 of 499305/20/13 at 10:20ampost #30698 of 499305/20/13 at 10:29ampost #30699 of 499305/20/13 at 10:30ampost #30700 of 499305/20/13 at 10:51ampost #30701 of 499305/20/13 at 10:57am
In my oppinion, the typical white tee + jeans + DR fit can quite easily make a caricature of the wearer. I, for one, don't wear the MDR to get the rockabilly look, but rather because it adds a bit of edge to what I usually wear. Which is mostly BCDRs, coloured tees, and jumpers. I also feel my collarless CWU goes way better with tees per se. The cloth collar of the CWU feels better on the skin than the leather collar of the MDR. That might be a reason why I typically go MDR + button down, and CWU + tee.
But, hey. It is all in the eye of the beholder. DR + white tee + trashed jeans does look good on many people.post #30702 of 499305/20/13 at 11:04amI got a few pms about listing all of my leathers for sale and one request that I post about it, so here goes.
I ordered three jackets (lamb moto, blacked out lamb mdr, calf 2010dr) last year at the cutoff. Now, this was kind of stupid since it was my first toj leather order, and getting sizing right on one jacket is usually fraught enough, but at the time it seemed like toj might disappear, so I gambled. Unfortunately, the cutoff meant lead time jumped to six months in my case, so I didn't see those jackets until December.
A lot of sizing advice gets thrown around in this thread, and a ton of it is shitty and unhelpful. On one hand, people are super fucking picky about fit—often to the point of demanding skintight jackets—and on the other, whenever someone tries to ask a question, the standard response is SHUT UP TRUST CHARLY. I do think Charly knows what he's doing with sizing, but it's not always clear that he knows what you want, and he's definitely on the receiving end of tons of bullshit. In my case, I wanted something that basically fit like a 40US, but I'd lost weight due to getting sick, so my measurements were closer to a 38, and he recommended roughly a 48 (TOJ sizing and EU sizing do line up; I'll explain). And this is how I ended up with a calf 2010DR that was pretty uncomfortable, and I had no idea why.
In retrospect, my impression is Charly sizes for jackets for being worn with tshirts (probably unless you're very specific otherwise)—and I kind of can't blame him, considering how noisy this thread can be about this. It also matters a lot less with lamb, which is far stretchier and much more forgiving, and if you layer a little too much, it's not that big of a deal. This is not the case with calf—so much so that my lamb jackets had wider shoulder measurements from the calf jacket, despite all being ordered with the same measurements and at the same time (and I never wore any of them).
I think Drew really got it right with his 1.05/1.08/1.1 measurement multiplier thing—ie if you have a 38" chest, multiply by one of those numbers to get your size—where 1.05 is tight, 108 is slim, and 1.1 is relaxed/fitted/whatever. I'd add that 1.05 is basically a tshirt, 1.08 is a sweater, and 1.1 is a chunky sweater. But as far as I can tell, it's mostly gone unnoticed in this thread that if you're (say) a 40US, this is normally supposed to correspond to a 50EU (standard rule is roughly US = EU - 10). 40 x 1.1 = 44", which is around where the TOJ size 50 is on the pattern charts (which Drew says are out of date, but which show up on the JC website and are fairly close to what you get if you ask Charly for what the starting point of a particular size)—meaning that Drew seems to actually start from a more relaxed fit when patterning, and if you're a 40US and ordering a 48 in TOJ sizing (corresponding to x1.05), you're basically sizing down a whole size. You can do this if you're getting lamb, and considering how light they are, it kind of makes sense to size them for tshirts. I do not recommend doing this with calf.
Anyway, I haven't seen anyone provide any serious sizing advice in a long time, so I figured I'd weigh in. It was an expensive lesson to learn, but someone had to do it. Also, all of this applies only to the leathers. No idea if this is true of the wool jackets or not.post #30703 of 499305/20/13 at 12:09pmQuote:In my case, I wanted something that basically fit like a 40US, but I'd lost weight due to getting sick, so my measurements were closer to a 38, and he recommended roughly a 48 (TOJ sizing and EU sizing do line up; I'll explain). And this is how I ended up with a calf 2010DR that was pretty uncomfortable, and I had no idea why.
I don't get what happened here. Were you unaware you lost weight?Quote:if you're a 40US and ordering a 48 in TOJ sizing (corresponding to x1.05), you're basically sizing down a whole size
... well, yeah? a 40 US is a 50 EU, and one size down from that is 48 ...
I dunno, you wrote a lot but I don't understand what your actual advice or lesson was.post #30704 of 499305/20/13 at 12:18pmQuote:Nah, lost weight, was trying to gain it back. Pneumonia fucked me up for quite a while.
tl;dr: standard sizing advice on here is basically to size really tight (or basically to size down a whole size from your true size). You can do this with lamb, and you'll just get a skintight jacket that'll usually look good with a tshirt, but that shit does not work for calf. I've never seen anyone on here say TOJ sizing follows the same rules as EU/US sizing, but it does; it's just actually relaxed enough to wear a thick sweater.
When I went back digging through the thread, lmost every time I've seen Drew post about this, he's pushed for more relaxed fits/measurements, but it doesn't seem to make much of an impression.
Come to think of it, I think you made a similar point a few pages back when someone complained about some DR fit in a side shot looking too big when that was just how DRs hang sometimes.
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