The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1889

Originally Posted by bertie 

No of course not. Not like that at all. They are totally different. Okay maybe. But no ropes.

And alcantara lined of course

Originally Posted by uNiCoRnPriNcEsSx 

lamb = lux
goat = softer than calf, textured
cow = armerz

Originally Posted by impolyt_one 

it is, and that is lamb; to be really honest, I prefer lamb for everything. They're obviously not jackets for really riding a bike in, but lamb falls nicely on your right out of the box, you can wear it a little slimmer because it stretches and doesn't crease hard in your elbows or pits like the harder leathers do, and it looks really fucking cool when you have a Bomber in A-2 style but it's cut trimly, see what BoO is doing this season (and what I've done for 2 years now with the Bomber - I<3Bacon wears the very first prototype and wears it well, it may not even come across slimly enough in pics but it definitely is, because it was made for me
) The thick lamb we have (which is all of those colors except the red, which is mid-thickness) is something really nice, not run of the mill stuff. That's why I tend to use it on all sorts of things, like varsity jacket sleeves, coat trimmings, there will be more; it's 'ours' if anything were. Other makers make leathers in Korea here using the same garment leather sources that we do, like Geller, etc, but they don't step up the extra $1-2/square to the nicer lamb that we use, because a larger sized leather jacket with detailing can be 50 squares per jacket. They tend to stay with the thin Italian nappa hides that are more standard and run fairly cheaply, it's genuine leather as opposed to full on aniline dye leather like I prefer to use, which has a transparent, deep finish with several color layers and a full grain, as opposed to the painted-on opaque finish that covers blemished or split-down hides.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one 

if you could see my MMM leather in person, this question is not even a question - the jacket looks cool because it's been worn to death for almost 12 years, but it's not high quality. The MMM calf is about one to one with the TOJ stuff on the topside finish though I might be edging the MMM out a bit, it's hard to tell since there isn't an unwrinkled spot on my MMM anywhere (our calf is near flawless in the hide and we pay a huge premium for that) but the MMM is very thin for calf, not even 3oz, more like 2oz (about 0.6-8mm, it's really quite thin), the lining is cheap cotton+viscose (that has gaping holes all over, and I have to stuff the strands of sleeve lining back into the sleeves), all the seams around the zippers and placket are just sewn and then excess edges are cut - when the seams break away from the stitching there's nothing to do about repairing it cleanly that way.

The jacket is missing the little flashing details of leather that 'hide' the zips like on my TOJ jackets, etc, and the folded over/sewn seams. The MRS zippers are nice on the MMM, but pound for pound the YKK Japans are about as good functionally - which is why MMM themselves moved to the same YKK zips later on. If you ever look at the Junya X Vanson leathers, you see they use the same exact front zip as we do. It's the same part in a bright finish.