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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1737

post #26041 of 40635
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VLSI View Post

What is double/ single needle quilt?

honest question and dumb answer, so bear with me and my stolen-from-the-internets non-TOJ photos, but:

single needle diamond quilt is akin to this: (disregard actual size of cells, stitch spacing, and square/diamond shape)


double needle quilt has double seams where the single needle has single seams. My intent here is to run two heights of figuring in the same quilt panel, one is the small beaded lines of the double needling, and then the larger inner diamond cells will rise slightly higher in effect. Again, disregard cell size and stitch spacing, even spacing needle to needle, as I want to put the double needles pretty close and do large diamond cells. On a men's jacket they'd be about 4-diamonds across, width-wise, in a size smedium'ish jacket, maybe 5-6 cells across on a larger size.

(really shitty leather quality/quilting example, disregard most of this too, just pay attention to general stitch type)
post #26042 of 40635
Thread Starter 
I like the idea of tan suede in this jacket, but if you want to go really nice, kick the shade up once more and go to a light whisky, a darker tan, in other words. This jacket will really sing in both leather and suede if you get the quilt. Right there around the medium'ish earth tones, the greys, or the darker suedes like prussian blue or dark teal, which we have in the heavy calf suede (we can't use this stuff on other jackets, it's a little too thick for the other designs we normally make in suede) - that is going to be a sweet spot.

There was some discussion on it a couple days ago, but my philosophy is this: suede tends to bludgeon a lot of the visual depth you're used to with shinier leather, which is a good thing sometimes, and then less ideal at other times. In any case, for a jacket that can accept the quilted panels, like this BCDR, I think quilting will add just the right touch of figuring and visual depth to go with suede. It'd look great in leather too, but that's my suede+quilting relativity theory.
post #26043 of 40635
So the men's BCDR is out...ETA on the women's? Are we still waiting for the Coppidge Transition?
post #26044 of 40635
I don't know if I'm man enough for the diamond quilting. Channel I might be able to do.
post #26045 of 40635
Thread Starter 
no. The women's stuff has been on order for a bit, on the downlow. We offer it to anybody who asks about it, as a 'girlfriend DR/BCDR' as before, they are the new models available there. We aren't gonna do the John Coppidge transition til later, having some more important (than clothes) personal things within TOJ that we're attending to while continuing on the path we've been on, for now. Once we take care of our own, we'll make the metamorphosis to JC.
post #26046 of 40635
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lesamourai View Post

I don't know if I'm man enough for the diamond quilting. Channel I might be able to do.

these things shouldn't get labeled or pigeonholed tbh, I think that's how less than ideal makeups come to light, and over the top makeups also happen. There is a place and time for all of them; if you aren't sure, feel free to ask me what I think, based on what you're looking for/to do.

I get to see a different side of all of the production than you guys see on Styleforum; there are a lot of jackets that never make it back to the internet for fit pics once shipped, most are the same thing you've seen, but one out of a dozen or two dozen is sometimes something different and it doesn't always get seen again. We see anywhere from a dozen to three or four dozen jackets a week, all each unique in size/makeup, at that point it's very easy to see what is 'good' and then less than good in terms of the toggling of options. This is why I said a 'goat quilted 4-zip Moto' would be too salad bar for my tastes, whereas a dark green double-needle quilt BCDR would be nice - I can visualize it, not sure if everyone else can - here you have two theoretical makeups that have a number of complications from the stock black lamb pics you've seen; the former, I feel, is probably one deviation too much (quilting; goat would be okay, Moto as 4-zip is great as a base, it just doesn't need the quilt) - and then the latter is just right to me, it moves the design further along, is admittedly a little loosened up conceptually, but would provide a great visual mix that isn't off.

Like I said, if the exact image doesn't come straight to you in full, you can ask me what I think. I've seen thousands of these things and know what the colors/materials/material weights are, and can visualize it in my head instantly.
post #26047 of 40635

Drew, without wanting to lecture you on how to run your business, but if you make that many different jackets then why not take a quick picture of a few of the different options before shipping them out so instead of having to 'visualise' them, we can see them for ourselves?

Would certainly make the process a lot easier, for me at least.

post #26048 of 40635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmaged View Post

goddammit that is straight fire. thought i was done with leathers, too. is it available for configuration with DR lapels like the other sample?
and has goat been discontinued? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

got nextpage'd redface.gif
post #26049 of 40635
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by slstr View Post

Drew, without wanting to lecture you on how to run your business, but if you make that many different jackets then why not take a quick picture of a few of the different options before shipping them out so instead of having to 'visualise' them, we can see them for ourselves?
Would certainly make the process a lot easier, for me at least.

Honest answer: those jackets are a) not always (and often not) the examples I want to show for further orders, in my book of taste, that is, and b) if someone orders something different like that, I try not to premiere them on the internet because it takes away something special from the order to production process, I want the customer in question to be the first to see it. It's like, what if you were trying to bed a female and were really looking forward to seeing her naked for the first time and before that happens but after the chase, you happen to see her naked in a very unceremonious circumstance, such as accidentally walking in on her pooping in the nude, or something? haha.
Also, c) I'm not always there on every shipping day, and packing and shipping mass quantities of individual orders requires time and effort and snapping pics in the post office in the midst of that isn't a fun thing to do if it's not necessary.
post #26050 of 40635

Haha, that was a fucking great analogy. Fair enough, i still think snapping a few would be helpful, maybe not to put up on the site but if people really couldn't decide between sand suede or whisky suede for example, then that could help them out.

 

And by them I mean me shog[1].gif

post #26051 of 40635
Thread Starter 
You're right, I am gonna try to re-face the options board asap. Making samples is expensive and time consuming but making a menu board isn't, that's my fault. I will start it now and then finalize it when I go back to Seoul in a few days. There are some new leather choices out too.

Also, in the meantime, I have decided that we need to do a modest price bump for the 2013 schedule, starting on the first day of 2013. Supply side has been killing me and I've needed to adjust from the 2011 price schedule when things were much cheaper, but never got around to it since we got too busy to address that. Also, to clear production table/machine space for future items we need to probably axe a few models as usual, so I'm just deciding on which ones will go.
post #26052 of 40635
What kind of colours are you looking at available for the calf/heavy half suedes? I'm strong on the earthy tones and have been fantasizing about a subtle forest green/grey suede. would love to see what you have.
post #26053 of 40635
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmaged View Post

got nextpage'd redface.gif

That's a women's jacket. We will run the current QDR as usual, the new QDR for women will be unique as is there until further notice. It would need a round of sampling to make something like that possible and I have other things I'd rather make in place of that.
post #26054 of 40635

Forest green suede BCDR would be incredible. fuck.

post #26055 of 40635
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newo View Post

What kind of colours are you looking at available for the calf/heavy half suedes? I'm strong on the earthy tones and have been fantasizing about a subtle forest green/grey suede. would love to see what you have.

will put up a menu board asap, as I said. heavy calf suede is gonna be the same price as lamb, and there are a rainbow of colors available. We didn't offer many colors in the thinner calf suede on the Bball because we had to custom make that to get to the price/feel we wanted, but with the heavier stuff it's pre-made and waiting there for us. I'll get some good colors up, there's like 1-2 shades of every imaginable primary and intermediate color out there. I've been thinking that maybe I should grab a Windows PC separate from my MBP and do the color menus on uncalibrated monitors, in HTML colors. What do you guys think of this idea, preferably guys with web experience?
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