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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1692

post #25366 of 42250
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meis View Post

I don't know about that particular one, but usually when drew takes those shots it's not a jacket made for him personally, and it's usually a size or so bigger than he usually wears so of course it's going to look more relaxed
As far as bunching in the back, w/ the riders its bound to happen at least a little bit unless you size it to fit really short / have no ass. Mine does it a bit, especially if I layer much under it.

I will go over a few points again in a little collage post here;

above; I am really skinny. that's about all there is to it. We present the sample fit pics on me because I am skinny (i r TOJ modelz) and I just don't have the kind of muscles or build to fill out a jacket. I have wide enough shoulders, elbows, a chest and all that, but I'm not a bodybuilder. The samples are actually made to my size, and then sold in a sizing formula similarly, but the caveat is, since they are made to measure, you should manipulate the measurements as you see fit. If you want to see fits on guys of other builds, there are usually plenty in the gallery. If one is aware of their body shape and what they do want to emphasize and what they don't want to, then they should communicate any of those facets to Charly so he can dress your body type better. Sometimes the 'perfect fit' is not the best looking one. in AriGold's case, the unzipped look is good, though I think he's just got a large drop and a big butt and so the zipped look will not be as elegant. It's a tradeoff sometimes. Grug had the same problem, except that he got jackets that were sized better for him and he went and tailored them to fit too closely around the midsection and ended up with a zipped fit like AriGold's. On bodies that taper a great deal, it's better to dress your body type and sort of 'shape' the shell that you wear, neverminding that it won't hug the body or some such misguided blanket idea of fit.

As for production and current lead times, the ever present 'when is my order shipping?' questions - always the same thing. For those just joining, we run production of separate designs at separate factories, we try and run orders in their paid-for, fully-confirmed state of order but sometimes group like pieces so that they are made faster; the assembly line is capable of switching between Big Macs and McChickens back to back in other words, but we can make them a whole lot faster if the order was 4 Big Macs and 4 McChickens in alternation and they stamp out 4 Big Macs in a row and then the 4 McChickens in a row, side by side, so as to make assembly and adornment more automated. We don't go fully automated with these things and manage to keep the quality under lock this way, but it does take time.
In any case, the constant in our model is the production base; they have X number of things they can make per day. The variable is the number of orders that come in per day; sometimes we reach quota or go over that and then production fills the next day(s), or not. Sometimes, as in the case of the past couple years, there are just so many orders that the production time does indeed stretch out for a longer wait. That's just the breaks of running something to-order, making a product specifically for a person, rather than making something completely for no one in particular, and then hanging it up in a store like bait.
The good news, as has been said, is that our order logs have slowed down in the latter part of the year and so the wait time has diminished significantly. Previously, the long wait was due to the fact that we ran a cutoff order in the end of May where a bunch of orders got jammed in on the last couple days, obviously exceeding daily quota like crazy. That gave us all summer to work on each jacket in the same way we always do. That was a one-time thing and we are on a normal production schedule now.

Buttons and stuff - these things aren't invincible, guys. We sometimes, or often, use delicate materials that are of a more luxurious quality than the mainstream can put into their clothing content. As such, they are to be worn, but with the care that they deserve. Simply put, not everything needs to be waterproof/bombproof/bulletproof to be 'quality' or even have a reason to exist, they are, because they are.
post #25367 of 42250
so i zipped it up and wore it for a good few hours watching the pistons get smashed by the golden state warriors - it's become a bit more comfortable over time as the leather breaks in, it definitely has give and it seems like it will continue over time.



Overall Drew's advice above is right.. it's important to dress for your body... my drop is large and my glutes are fucken massive, it wouldn't make sense to get super skin tight form fitting clothing but getting clothes that flatter my build. After a few years of trying, i've nailed it with suits, and I'm starting to figure it out with leathers and more casual wear, so next time, with the advice of charly and those on this board, i can come up with sizing that works much better for me.


Again, I want to say thanks to drew, charly and dan for their help with the whole process, and it's been one of learning for me. The product that they make is amazing. I have nothing but praise for the quality that they put out and i hope that they can continue to work on improving their production quality and efficiency to serve the great demand that is out there.

Oh yeah and now i'm off on holidays - so seeya later knts!
post #25368 of 42250
Thread Starter 
that looks much better that way, sans the sweatpants.
post #25369 of 42250
All this fit talk is great, but I want photos of new products to jerk over, ok??
post #25370 of 42250
anyone have both gitman OCBDs and the TOJ new or old? looking for real life comparisons between the two not just measurement comparisons. from the measurments I've gathered i cant even fit into a xl TOJ but wear an gitman L fine
post #25371 of 42250
Drew, how long does it take, start to finish, to make one jacket?
post #25372 of 42250
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipractice View Post

Jawnz don't fit right? It's k drop 10 lbs better than losing $100 in B/S.

lol
post #25373 of 42250
Some fit pics of my A2 happy.gif love this jacket


post #25374 of 42250

^lamb or goat?

post #25375 of 42250
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synthese View Post

Drew, how long does it take, start to finish, to make one jacket?

If nothing else was going on, and every single material and component was on hand - they would take about a work day from start to finish. We have 3 married couples, each with their own shop they run on their own, who do the same roles by gender - man takes original TOJ pattern base and slides measures to fit and then cuts patterns, cuts leather, preps for sewing (some stuff requires glue or taping plus hammering for tuck, as you can't exactly use pins to hold seams in place on leather) - and then the wife is at the machine sewing, then the man goes back and does the finishing work. They all work well together. It's kind of surprising how they all check in for work day after day and can sit in the same room as husband and wife and work together, lol. I guess they are all well-matched couples.

In real terms, since there are always so many things to make, and patterns get cut as something else gets sewn, minute for minute- the jackets overlap and they can turn 2-3 finished things a day since things are in motion and the two people can multitask. Seasonally we sometimes get another sewer or two at each location to assist the couples and the male cutter can hand off ready to sew bundles like these, faster than the women can sew them.

post #25376 of 42250
Quote:
Originally Posted by B0Bs4g3t View Post

^lamb or goat?

sweet tender lamb smile.gif
post #25377 of 42250
looks very good
post #25378 of 42250
Does anyone with an A2 or ribbed jacket have a similar problem where they've got a crease in their leather that goes horizontally a bit above the lower back?





Always thought this was a case of the way it was packed and shipped, but its been a year (I'm late, I know) and it's still there... Is there a way to get rid of it?

Just to note that I noticed this right after unpacking it, so it's not something that I've done to it over time... At least I don't think so
post #25379 of 42250
patiently awaiting more ma-1 info
post #25380 of 42250
^^^

Likewise
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