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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1555

post #23311 of 43295
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Also, one more thing that will be apparent as you view that picture - we are using 19 stitches per inch on the v2 shirt, whereas more common shirts such as the Uniqlo use significantly fewer stitches per inch.
My Kiton shirts have 26 stiches per inch but then again it costs alot more wink.gif
Btw how long is the usual waiting time for a MDR?
post #23312 of 43295
Thread Starter 
26? Are you sure? Brioni uses 19spi; I was offered 21spi but the spacing between stitches was so microscopic that I felt it didn't match the style of the oxford cloth, that there needed to be some distinction of stitching to go with the weave of the cloth. I might go to 21spi if using a smoother cloth for a dress shirt.
post #23313 of 43295
Thread Starter 
check out the 3rd page of this pdf:

http://www.dewellton.com/images/Stitch_Guide/Stitch%20Length.pdf


Regarding lead times - we're looking at a few more weeks to get some of the 'cutoff' orders done (I learned today that a lot of these cutoff orders were actually finalized into June or changed along the way, and were at the very end of the list) - and then orders from the fall are at 2-3 months lead. We'll add new sewers if the demand stays strong, otherwise, the longer lead time just reflects the longer line. The jackets are still made at their same pace, one by one, at about one jacket per day, and I don't want to compromise that in exchange for making them faster. That's just how long it takes to cut a jacket from scratch and make it up, so no use in trying to shorten that process.
post #23314 of 43295
I think so, however, it varies. For example, the collar is stiched with 10 stiches per cm and the shoulders with only 7 per cm.
post #23315 of 43295
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

pocket, and Italianate shoulder. Handwork around the scye
60245_10101084567080830_2010646370_n.jpg
closeup on handwork
307961_10101084567215560_2076060233_n.jpg

 


I think the shirt looks good overall but I do have one gripe. That "Italianate" shoulder does not do it for me at all. I just think that if the goal (as stated) is to create a really luxurious AND classic OCBD, then that ruffling effect at the shoulders does not work. Makes it look more like a women's dress shirt.

post #23316 of 43295
I bet that detail is much more subtle IRL.

Apart from the pleating effect, I think it also means that you can have a larger arm going into a smaller armhole - i.e. optimal movement and comfort.
post #23317 of 43295
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Regarding lead times - we're looking at a few more weeks to get some of the 'cutoff' orders done (I learned today that a lot of these cutoff orders were actually finalized into June or changed along the way, and were at the very end of the list) - and then orders from the fall are at 2-3 months lead. We'll add new sewers if the demand stays strong, otherwise, the longer lead time just reflects the longer line. The jackets are still made at their same pace, one by one, at about one jacket per day, and I don't want to compromise that in exchange for making them faster. That's just how long it takes to cut a jacket from scratch and make it up, so no use in trying to shorten that process.

300px-Orfice.jpg

post #23318 of 43295

Hi guys,

 

I am planning to place an order for A-2 Bomber in black sometime around these two weeks. Anything I need to be cautious about the measurement and materials? Since its my first order, I will appreciate any advice you may have. Also, I have been hearing about the talk between goat skin and lamb skin, which material is better for A-2? What are Half-length V-quilted placket flap and suede name tag that said on the website? How long will it approximately take until I receive the leather jacket?
 

These questions may sound dumb to some of you people, but I guess this is how people learn by asking questions! :D Thanks in advance!


Edited by Hugo Tam - 10/10/12 at 2:39pm
post #23319 of 43295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Tam View Post

Hi guys,

I am planning to place an order for A-2 Bomber in black sometime around these two weeks. Anything I need to be cautious about the measurement and materials? Since its my first order, I will appreciate any advice you may have. Also, I have been hearing about the talk between goat skin and lamb skin, which material is better for A-2? What are Half-length V-quilted placket flap and suede name tag that said on the website?

 
These questions may sound dumb to some of you people, but I guess this is how people learn by asking questions! biggrin.gif Thanks in advance!

on the A-2 add between 1" to 1.5" to the length that you would want a non-ribbed jacket to hit to account for riding up attributable to the elastic waist
post #23320 of 43295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Tam View Post

Hi guys,

I am planning to place an order for A-2 Bomber in black sometime around these two weeks. Anything I need to be cautious about the measurement and materials? Since its my first order, I will appreciate any advice you may have. Also, I have been hearing about the talk between goat skin and lamb skin, which material is better for A-2? What are Half-length V-quilted placket flap and suede name tag that said on the website? How long will it approximately take until I receive the leather jacket?

 
These questions may sound dumb to some of you people, but I guess this is how people learn by asking questions! biggrin.gif Thanks in advance!

I am loving my black goatskin A-2. The lamb is thicker/warmer but the goat is water resistant and tougher, and in my opinion looks more expensive/high-end.

On sizing, I'd say avoid the temptation to go too long; I'd frankly like to knock off 0.5 - 1 inch off mine (24" front length at height of 6'1")
post #23321 of 43295
Love the cropped look on a-2.
post #23322 of 43295
I added some length to the sleeves on my A2. Really like the look of a little stacking in the sleeves. Wore my A2 today. Fucking love this jacket. It's seriously so great.
post #23323 of 43295
Quote:
Originally Posted by VLSI View Post

I added some length to the sleeves on my A2. Really like the look of a little stacking in the sleeves. Wore my A2 today. Fucking love this jacket. It's seriously so great.

I feel like the thing with the A-2 is that you don't understand how much swagger it has until you actually wear it a few times, see everyone staring at it, etc. I only ordered it for the sake of variety and because of the TOJ cutoff. Now I understand the hype.
post #23324 of 43295
It's not just the leather but DAT FUR. Everyone wants to touch the fur.
post #23325 of 43295
I haven't even broke out the fut yet.

Speaking of, when ordering my A2 and speccing measurements with Charly, I just said I want it to look like Willy's laugh.gif
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