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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1554

post #23296 of 44936
I will get it mtm, I want to see what the leather/details are like before I buy it.
post #23297 of 44936
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by okonomi View Post

The new oxford looks sick Drew. All those details sound impressive too - but could you educate us unenlightened ones on what these features actually result in? I wanna be able to explain to my other image-oriented friends why my oxford is better than theirs.

For instance a bias-cut, bookmatched yoke sounds cool but it leaves me thinking ???

They result in a much nicer shirt than most are accustomed to buying? haha. There are some facets that are esoteric and romantic, such as the hand fell around the scyes and the cleaner single needle stitch, but then there are more outward things like the soft yet structured cuffs and collar that give it an honest to goodness 'rich' look, the immensely quality looking buttons that are sure to be pointed out to you every time you wear the shirt, the selvedge fabric, and then of course, our fit. There is indeed tactile and visual evidence for sure though, it's not like a wine tasting or something, lol. Definitely not just 'asking you to trust me on it' or force it down your throats, it's there and it's all good for what I make it out to be. We only have the 3 colors now and two of them are blue, so it's not supposed to be something you scoop up by the dozens, either.
I lean towards more uniform-like, minimalist wardrobes anyway and prefer to have quality items that inspire me via their honest qualities - think of those '$5000 wardrobe' threads that pop up all the time on styleforum - I'd feel nice being able to eventually cover some or many of those categories or items without spamming a checklist up as well, where one could recommend a TOJ thing here and there because they genuinely are a nice choice to get excited about.

Beyond all that, I said it from the outset - I didn't really make this shirt with everybody in mind, for that reason - people will have to decide if they want to step up and find out about the next level of shirts if they want to. There are some guys in here who are already familiar with some of the construction aspects via MC-minded Italianate shirts they might wear to work or something but I'm aiming to bring these sort of things down here in my own version, to SW+D, where guys might be more accustomed to the standard factory-run style shirts with the crispy fused collars and cuffs, the double needle sides, cheaper buttons and all that. The differences are subtle, but I already know after wearing this sample that they're enough to impress and spoil you to not want to go back to normal shirting.
post #23298 of 44936
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

They result in a much nicer shirt than most are accustomed to buying? haha. There are some facets that are esoteric and romantic, such as the hand fell around the scyes and the cleaner single needle stitch, but then there are more outward things like the soft yet structured cuffs and collar that give it an honest to goodness 'rich' look, the immensely quality looking buttons that are sure to be pointed out to you every time you wear the shirt, the selvedge fabric, and then of course, our fit. There is indeed tactile and visual evidence for sure though, it's not like a wine tasting or something, lol. Definitely not just 'asking you to trust me on it' or force it down your throats, it's there and it's all good for what I make it out to be. We only have the 3 colors now and two of them are blue, so it's not supposed to be something you scoop up by the dozens, either.
I lean towards more uniform-like, minimalist wardrobes anyway and prefer to have quality items that inspire me via their honest qualities - think of those '$5000 wardrobe' threads that pop up all the time on styleforum - I'd feel nice being able to eventually cover some or many of those categories or items without spamming a checklist up as well, where one could recommend a TOJ thing here and there because they genuinely are a nice choice to get excited about.
Beyond all that, I said it from the outset - I didn't really make this shirt with everybody in mind, for that reason - people will have to decide if they want to step up and find out about the next level of shirts if they want to. There are some guys in here who are already familiar with some of the construction aspects via MC-minded Italianate shirts they might wear to work or something but I'm aiming to bring these sort of things down here in my own version, to SW+D, where guys might be more accustomed to the standard factory-run style shirts with the crispy fused collars and cuffs, the double needle sides, cheaper buttons and all that. The differences are subtle, but I already know after wearing this sample that they're enough to impress and spoil you to not want to go back to normal shirting.

You got me jizzing in my pants right now, and the Band of Outsiders blue oxford i'm wearing right now just doens't feel like it will cut it anymore!!!!
post #23299 of 44936
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

They result in a much nicer shirt than most are accustomed to buying? haha. There are some facets that are esoteric and romantic, such as the hand fell around the scyes and the cleaner single needle stitch, but then there are more outward things like the soft yet structured cuffs and collar that give it an honest to goodness 'rich' look, the immensely quality looking buttons that are sure to be pointed out to you every time you wear the shirt, the selvedge fabric, and then of course, our fit. There is indeed tactile and visual evidence for sure though, it's not like a wine tasting or something, lol. Definitely not just 'asking you to trust me on it' or force it down your throats, it's there and it's all good for what I make it out to be. We only have the 3 colors now and two of them are blue, so it's not supposed to be something you scoop up by the dozens, either.
I lean towards more uniform-like, minimalist wardrobes anyway and prefer to have quality items that inspire me via their honest qualities - think of those '$5000 wardrobe' threads that pop up all the time on styleforum - I'd feel nice being able to eventually cover some or many of those categories or items without spamming a checklist up as well, where one could recommend a TOJ thing here and there because they genuinely are a nice choice to get excited about.
Beyond all that, I said it from the outset - I didn't really make this shirt with everybody in mind, for that reason - people will have to decide if they want to step up and find out about the next level of shirts if they want to. There are some guys in here who are already familiar with some of the construction aspects via MC-minded Italianate shirts they might wear to work or something but I'm aiming to bring these sort of things down here in my own version, to SW+D, where guys might be more accustomed to the standard factory-run style shirts with the crispy fused collars and cuffs, the double needle sides, cheaper buttons and all that. The differences are subtle, but I already know after wearing this sample that they're enough to impress and spoil you to not want to go back to normal shirting.

Your'e a gifted salesman, Drew.

And that is not to say you're not a gifted craftsman, because you are.
post #23300 of 44936
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgcookielol View Post

Drew/goat jacket owners, how do you dudes think black goatskin would look on a murked out 2010DR? This is pretty much my last 'planned' leather purchase (a black t1 sounds better and better every day...) before getting into the coats/shirts/pants.
Kinda worried the pebble grain would overwhelm the sleek black hardware. Goat probably looks best with the new silver zips, huh?

 

Wearing my goatskin DR today - some seriously good shit!  Not a fan of murked out except on motos and I think the goatskin is interesting enough on its own, so I vote for standard gunmetal 2-way zips or the silver.

 

 

I'm seriously contemplating copping a T-1 ready for next summer (probably madness given the amount of rain in UK this past summer but hey) having trouble deciding on a color though...

post #23301 of 44936
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by emilo View Post

Your'e a gifted salesman, Drew.
And that is not to say you're not a gifted craftsman, because you are.

If it weren't for handsewn shirts and nice leather jackets, then there might be Slapchops and Magic towels.... glad I have the clothes.
post #23302 of 44936

Just to clarify, I'm not doubting you Drew - I intend to purchase. It's genuinely that I was showing the shirt pics to my friend and trying to convince him that it would be better than his (I am an asshole).

post #23303 of 44936
yeh dude fuck your friends, they'll respect you more and think of you as superior based on your superlative TOJ oxford icon_gu_b_slayer[1].giffoo.gif
post #23304 of 44936
I don't understand why a split yoke is better on a RTW shirt without a pattern that requires matching, but for some reason all the split yoke shirts I have feel better through the shoulders. Not a very big sample size so it could just be a figment of my imagination.
post #23305 of 44936
Thread Starter 
the bias of the fabric stretches and drapes better on the split yoke vs straight across, emanating from the center of the back, rolling over the shoulders.
post #23306 of 44936
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

the bias of the fabric stretches and drapes better on the split yoke vs straight across, emanating from the center of the back, rolling over the shoulders.

Ah, so the direction of the fabric weave influences the direction that it stretches most, and having a split yoke means that it can be aligned to stretch in the way of movement? makes sense.
post #23307 of 44936
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

Ah, so the direction of the fabric weave influences the direction that it stretches most, and having a split yoke means that it can be aligned to stretch in the way of movement? makes sense.

You can try it. Take your woven shirt, orient the weaves so it goes up and down, left and right. Pull up and down, left and right. As you will see, it doesn't stretch much. Now try pulling it diagonally and you will see that there is much more give. Apply this to a split yoke and it will allow the upper back to stretch out when you reach far out forward.
post #23308 of 44936
Thread Starter 
1969 asked for a pic of how high the sides scallop - so here we go; TOJ is in the front, a Uniqlo in the back. You can see that ours scallops up about an inch or so more than the Uniqlo, though the lengths are about the same. I find the height of sides on this TOJ to be about the same as last time though; the Uniqlo just has a particularly straight-cut bottom whereas ours has a defined scallop.

317658_10101087330238440_152366988_n.jpg
post #23309 of 44936
Thread Starter 
Also, one more thing that will be apparent as you view that picture - we are using 19 stitches per inch on the v2 shirt, whereas more common shirts such as the Uniqlo use significantly fewer stitches per inch.
post #23310 of 44936

Speaking as someone who owns like ten uniqlo ocbds, all of my shirts now seem totally inadequate

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