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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1550

post #23236 of 42029
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969 View Post

The button placket looks very clean. I typically won't wear shirts with them because they usually end up looking like wrinkled vag.

Yes, I discussed this before but there didn't seem to be a consensus on the wrinkled vag issue. Perhaps it wasn't understood, but we went ahead and spec'ed the fabric to be laundered and shrunk before they start cutting anything, so there's gonna be little to no shrinkage or puckering of the seams on this shirt. You can see that in the pics of the placket, which show it after pre-wash and then a home wash. When these shirts arrive they will be soft and free of starch, the out of package look won't be crisp and paper-y like you're used to with normal shirts.
There are some really pleasant aspects regarding the construction of this shirt that I really can't get enough of; the floating non-fused interface in the collars and cuffs is amazing. The collar itself rolls so beautifully and has such a substantial feel in the oxford cloth; that part must be seen to be believed. Likewise, the cuffs have the same substantial but unstructured feel that makes them do a slight hourglass where they come in for the button. There's these subtle organic shapes here and there that just make this shirt look so genuine and real, out of time, they make normal shirts look so 2D and without personality. Barring the trends in collar and cuff sizes that come and go, this is like what you'd imagine a shirt from 100 years ago to be like. I realize how ridiculously fluffy this all sounds and there will be those who give zero fucks, and the shirt wasn't really made for them, but it really must be experienced to be appreciated. This is a definite game-changer piece.
post #23237 of 42029
Thread Starter 
haha, who is this?

http://hansboobie.tumblr.com/post/31449256437/finally-the-toj-story
post #23238 of 42029
Cityhunter icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #23239 of 42029
Is there a price target for the oxfords? I can tell so far it's not going to be $400, but just wondering if I should hold off some purchases for those.
post #23240 of 42029

The shoulders on the v1 oxford were pretty small, I had to size up to xl to fit (42 chest), is the new one going to be the same pattern?

post #23241 of 42029
Quote:
Originally Posted by althanis View Post

Is there a price target for the oxfords? I can tell so far it's not going to be $400, but just wondering if I should hold off some purchases for those.

I think someone said over 200 and under 300 from what i remember

post #23242 of 42029
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post


Yes, I discussed this before but there didn't seem to be a consensus on the wrinkled vag issue. Perhaps it wasn't understood, but we went ahead and spec'ed the fabric to be laundered and shrunk before they start cutting anything, so there's gonna be little to no shrinkage or puckering of the seams on this shirt. You can see that in the pics of the placket, which show it after pre-wash and then a home wash. When these shirts arrive they will be soft and free of starch, the out of package look won't be crisp and paper-y like you're used to with normal shirts.
There are some really pleasant aspects regarding the construction of this shirt that I really can't get enough of; the floating non-fused interface in the collars and cuffs is amazing. The collar itself rolls so beautifully and has such a substantial feel in the oxford cloth; that part must be seen to be believed. Likewise, the cuffs have the same substantial but unstructured feel that makes them do a slight hourglass where they come in for the button. There's these subtle organic shapes here and there that just make this shirt look so genuine and real, out of time, they make normal shirts look so 2D and without personality. Barring the trends in collar and cuff sizes that come and go, this is like what you'd imagine a shirt from 100 years ago to be like. I realize how ridiculously fluffy this all sounds and there will be those who give zero fucks, and the shirt wasn't really made for them, but it really must be experienced to be appreciated. This is a definite game-changer piece.

 

But isn't the puckering actually from the thread shrinking, and not the cloth?  Can you get around that by just using nicer thread?

post #23243 of 42029
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

But isn't the puckering actually from the thread shrinking, and not the cloth?  Can you get around that by just using nicer thread?

most thread is poly or poly blend, it's not exactly shrinking the same way a woven cloth (woven of millions of threads, insert spooky branesplode music here) is
post #23244 of 42029
Hi
I just got my dr in calf from snowmanxl.
It is my first toj purchase and I could say it is amazing.
I just have a little question since this is my first leather jacket.
Do I need to put some cream on after wearing it Undering raining or snowing?
Thanks
post #23245 of 42029
Thread Starter 
Let's move on from the theoretical and look at some pictures, shall we?

As I said, the sample was made without buttonholes for the collar, so I just sewed a couple in place to see what the collar might look like if buttoned. Nice roll, there's a substantiality to it, even if on the hanger.

Fit is mostly the same as old TOJ shirts. We kicked out the shoulders just a tad but the size chart will represent something you guys are probably familiar with, as slim shirting doesn't have miles of variance.

643993_10101084566996000_1293301013_n.jpg
(box pleat will be widened just a fraction and this is just a pressing job by myself, so ignore the look of the box pleat basically) - the points to see are that the back is undarted, has a box pleat, has a locker loop, and what you can't see is that the yoke is 2-piece and bias-cut, bookmatched. It gives a nice roll over the shoulders.
550392_10101084566846300_50957184_n.jpg
pocket, and Italianate shoulder. Handwork around the scye
60245_10101084567080830_2010646370_n.jpg
closeup on handwork
307961_10101084567215560_2076060233_n.jpg
single needle
230851_10101084567325340_1405491065_n.jpg
that soft cuff with floating interface
247290_10101084566936120_263151300_n.jpg
post #23246 of 42029

When are these available to order?

post #23247 of 42029
Thread Starter 
Not sure yet, but soon. Still tabulating a price and double-checking on supply and labor before we take any orders. Also considering either making a separate minimalist dress shirt at the same quality level, or more in the same button-down collar style in different fabrics I find - or both.
post #23248 of 42029
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Giggity View Post

Vicarius bawcey collection mang, have you got a T-1?

No, I never got around to buying one. Maybe I should, although I feel like I have too many "light" jackets already though, it's pretty cold here half of the year and I've only really got the fishtail for when it's freezing.
post #23249 of 42029
Shirts are looking realll nice. WIll definately order when available, my v1 shirts are most comfortable shirts I own
post #23250 of 42029
think ill make a v2 my first white ocbd
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