As far as I understand it's not a clean up run, it's back to business as usual, as they all have had time of.
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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1501
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From the TOJ Unofficial page:
"It will be the same as before, until we roll out the new things. I don’t know how much longer, but this is more like a cleanup run opportunity. Also, we haven’t changed prices in awhile but the supply chain keeps eating away at us, so when the new things drop they will be reformulated a bit and I will have to change the prices a bit as well. I will be taking them up a little bit, as with the shirts."
Also, any advice on fit? It's a little tight around the back shoulders so Ill get that loosened up and sleeve width probably 1.5 inches wider.
I have no idea which post you guys are talking about with the leathers so here are all the posts:
it is, and that is lamb; to be really honest, I prefer lamb for everything. They're obviously not jackets for really riding a bike in, but lamb falls nicely on your right out of the box, you can wear it a little slimmer because it stretches and doesn't crease hard in your elbows or pits like the harder leathers do, and it looks really fucking cool when you have a Bomber in A-2 style but it's cut trimly, see what BoO is doing this season (and what I've done for 2 years now with the Bomber - I<3Bacon wears the very first prototype and wears it well, it may not even come across slimly enough in pics but it definitely is, because it was made for me
) The thick lamb we have (which is all of those colors except the red, which is mid-thickness) is something really nice, not run of the mill stuff. That's why I tend to use it on all sorts of things, like varsity jacket sleeves, coat trimmings, there will be more; it's 'ours' if anything were. Other makers make leathers in Korea here using the same garment leather sources that we do, like Geller, etc, but they don't step up the extra $1-2/square to the nicer lamb that we use, because a larger sized leather jacket with detailing can be 50 squares per jacket. They tend to stay with the thin Italian nappa hides that are more standard and run fairly cheaply, it's genuine leather as opposed to full on aniline dye leather like I prefer to use, which has a transparent, deep finish with several color layers and a full grain, as opposed to the painted-on opaque finish that covers blemished or split-down hides.
How's your calf compare to the calf on your old margiela 5-zip? I mean, we know your lamb's the tits but where do you think your calf ranks on the ladder of all calf leathers used?
if you could see my MMM leather in person, this question is not even a question - the jacket looks cool because it's been worn to death for almost 12 years, but it's not high quality. The MMM calf is about one to one with the TOJ stuff on the topside finish though I might be edging the MMM out a bit, it's hard to tell since there isn't an unwrinkled spot on my MMM anywhere (our calf is near flawless in the hide and we pay a huge premium for that) but the MMM is very thin for calf, not even 3oz, more like 2oz (about 0.6-8mm, it's really quite thin), the lining is cheap cotton+viscose (that has gaping holes all over, and I have to stuff the strands of sleeve lining back into the sleeves), all the seams around the zippers and placket are just sewn and then excess edges are cut - when the seams break away from the stitching there's nothing to do about repairing it cleanly that way.
The jacket is missing the little flashing details of leather that 'hide' the zips like on my TOJ jackets, etc, and the folded over/sewn seams. The MRS zippers are nice on the MMM, but pound for pound the YKK Japans are about as good functionally - which is why MMM themselves moved to the same YKK zips later on. If you ever look at the Junya X Vanson leathers, you see they use the same exact front zip as we do. It's the same part in a bright finish.
Goatskin is allowable for Bombers, it would be good (though the brown is darker than the brown lamb) - I just like the idea of the 4 zip MDR in brown or black goat, it will be excellent. Trust me on this one. There are certain 'specials' now and then that come along as a result of the right meeting of design and material, and a 4-zip MDR in the super dark brown goat with brown-taped YKK's in silver is another one of them. We make a lot of nice stuff, but there's the few things that are just exceedingly NICE, like that whiskey 2010 DR we made for aeglus. I got to see that thing in person and it was pretty amazing. Blows up my ego to see stuff like that.
What I want to see is that dark brown goatskin 4-zip MDR with some age, maybe 3 months or more on it. It will look godly. Anybody who has to go back to college this coming fall should get one now so that it's perfectly worn-in by the time school starts, so you can style on campus plebes. Fuck, I wish I could be in college again... I'd leave a trail of styleless victims...
good question and I should've addressed the other question like this a few pages back but I've lost the post now, the one asking why so many people go for the same makeup as the sample colors, there's definitely more than just those.
I'd say, off hand;
2010 DR, basically all of the available colors, but I'm not cracked up on the idea of cream/off white - skip that one if you want my opinion.
Lamb: black, brown, navy, whiskey, sand, bottle green, olive green, cream/off white, medium gray, light dove gray.
Calf: black, brown (light, medium/standard and dark), navy, olive green, bottle green.
Goat: dark brown, black.
Horse: medium brown, dark brown.
If you want the best of the best of that list, I'd say the two green Italian calf leathers are insane quality leather, if you want something solid but not yet done before, go for the goatskins, and if you want the standby, black lamb of course
Moto - black or brown calf or goat, or brown horse; whisky or sand tan if you can swag it
MDR, I like the 4-zip version, get it in black or brown goatskin, or one of the calf colors, or black lamb
QDR, all the lamb colors work, the two green calfskins, skip the goat and horse for this model. You want something softer that lets the leather undulate from the many stitch lines on this jacket, it's an amazing effect. Black lamb is standby here again
A2 Bomber - black or brown lamb, or black or dark brown goat
CWU-45 - black lamb
Bball - tan or grey calf suede
A-1 Bomber - colored lamb suede
T-1 and T-3 jackets - colored lamb suede
am I missing any?
Drew, your advice please (and apologies as these questions have probably been asked many times, I just did not see them in my admittedly desultory searches).
1. Would you use the peacoat in a formal/ corporate environment? if so, which color - I 'm split between black or blue?
2. A2 Bomber or CWU-45? Goat or lamb?
3. The QDR - black or green (OG or BG) lamb?
4. Is there one 'classic' TOJ jacket you would recommend? I have the tan Bbal and the VTG collared Moto.
good questions, i'll Q+A in order;
1) yes, most definitely. Can't fit over a suit jacket but if you're likely to just wear say, trousers, a shirt, and a light knit - spot on, would look very nice. I have done fits like this previously. Expect people to comment on how nice the leather collar backing is.
2) A2 or CWU, either or. Get the CWU in black lamb, or try the A2 in black goat if you like the sound of that. Haven't seen any orders for black goat A2's but that would be so spot on. Try without the name patch on the A2 if going black goat. That was originally a nice contrast between lamb and lamb suede, but the goat is harder and the matchup would be less congruent. The A2 jacket itself in goat would be phenomenal though, with that fur collar.
3) QDR, the black lamb is excellent, the greens are calf, also good for the QDR. You saw how good that red Moto was - expect the a bottle green QDR to be shockingly good like that as well. For you thoughm I'll be totally honest here, I may not recommend the QDR - I don't know your frame exactly, but you had requested us to make jackets more relaxed in fit previously- nothing wrong with that because we make something for everyone, but the QDR is one of those jackets for the skinny guys. I say this because it has horizontal features across the width of the sleeve head, and DR's when worn open do not flatter, they have the extra width behind the zipper that normally overlaps when closed. The visual appearance is wide across the midsection. Guys who are not slim will look biker'ish, guys who are slim will find this style suitable. Some styles just aren't cut out for each person. I can't really wear DR's either and I'm slim. Just not my style tbh. The green leather is nice in other models.
4) Yes, there are. Considering the above, and considering all the models in the stable, if you don't have a black lamb Moto, you may want to consider that. It seems simple but the chances one has to pick up a perfect fitting black single-breasted leather with minimal decoration - those chances are rare. In general, for everybody - the jackets you see pop in this thread often, like black 2010 DR, the MDR, the Moto - those are staple and just don't disappoint.
Edited by willy cheesesteak - 8/29/12 at 6:02pm
It's a good compromise between weight and functionality, from what I understand, Langlitz likes to use goatskin on their jackets because it's a little lighter than horse and calf, but still offers good abrasion protection in a fall. I picked goat (moto, black) for those reasons, but also note 99.9% of my riding is under 40mph on streets. I am wrestling with the idea of ordering another jacket in calf (probably a DR in olive) for my infrequent jaunts up the interstate, but honestly, I'd like to see if ToJ is going to produce MTM armor-fitted jackets first.
it's all a matter of personal preference. i have jackets with ribbed collars and toj regular bomber collar. both are cool their own way but tbh, ribbed looks better to me
The thought of anyone getting a CWU in anything other than black is pretty disturbing however. White CWU? Bottle green CWU?
Pics of you in it? In the gallery I can only find collared CWU, and ONE hanging CWU ribbed.
Really want a ribbed, but I'd like to see someone in it as well, and drool.
- The new official TOJ thread, 2011
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