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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1469

post #22021 of 39219
Quote:
Originally Posted by reedobandito View Post

I'd say 44 honestly. I wear 46 and I'm 5'11" and around 160

Wow, really? TOJ1s seem to be sized different though. All leathers, I'm in the 47/48 range. I couldn't comfortably fit in a 48. 5'9" 158-160.
post #22022 of 39219
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBear View Post

Wow, really? TOJ1s seem to be sized different though. All leathers, I'm in the 47/48 range. I couldn't comfortably fit in a 48. 5'9" 158-160.

Guess that's true. Maybe a 46 for the TOJ1 then, don't have experience with varsity style ToJ offerings anyways
post #22023 of 39219
Correct me if I'm wrong, the non-leathers just seem that way to me at least. I didn't comfortably fit in the anniversary harrington nor the TOJ1 in size 48, yet I fit in leathers of the same size. So I sized up to 50 for my upcoming bball. smile.gif
post #22024 of 39219

reedobandido, I bet 44 would be too small for him, unless he wants toj1 really tight fitting. afaik toj1 fits smaller than the leathers?

 

 

I'm 5'6 and 132 lb and a 46 (45 length) 2010 bomber fits me great. definitely not too big at least.

post #22025 of 39219
I think the trend has been to size up from what you would normally get from them. I'm like a size 45-46 in my TOJ leathers, and my TOJ1 is a size 48 (with 46 lengths, I think). We're similar height and weight, but I don't have a clue if your body is shaped differently. So go with a 48 (maybe with a smaller length - nothing smaller than 46 though) if you can.
post #22026 of 39219
I was advised to go to a 54 for my TOJ1 even though my MDR sits between a 50 and 52. It's arriving today so we shall see. Was advised to go 52 on the baseball (with +1 on lengths). Again...arriving today.
post #22027 of 39219
Thread Starter 
Alright jawn fiends, the shirt is coming along well, not sure how long the sample will take though.

In the end, decided to nix a few details so that it wouldn't be overbearingly expensive, nor overwrought in design. Again, I want it to be a classic shirt you will seriously want to keep forever, so it's looking like the short detail list we confirmed will be centered around these:

-pre shrunk Japanese selvedge fabric
-18 stitches per inch. Nice medium stitch that you can see. 21 stitches per inch was possible, but looked a little off. Brioni dress shirts use the 18spi, we were happy with what we saw.
-thick (I think 4mm or so) genuine mother of pearl buttons, handsewn with chickenfoot stitching
-single needle construction, small gusset
-full floating/non-fused interface in collar and cuffs. Both sides. Incredibly soft yet holds shape.
-machine sewn seams with hand-felled arm scyes. The scye seam is on machine, the fell seam is by hand.

Design is going to be as unfussy and classical as they come. Locker loop, box pleat. Fit will be slim but I'm straying away from the too-tapered/darted look. I'd like to take the silhouette back away from the hips.

I nixed the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs for cleanliness, and nixed the handsewn buttonholes for cost reasons (incredibly expensive) - had we done everything I talked about before, the price would have indeed neared $400, so that wasn't gonna happen. I promised smashwindow already. redface.gif
post #22028 of 39219
Any idea when you will start taking orders?
post #22029 of 39219

EDIT: Deleted double post

post #22030 of 39219
Considering what the size chart for the original shirts looked like (along with the fit pics) I really hopes he sticks with that og cut. It's so much more mature than that Band of Outsiders stuff.

Gonna buy one in a nice pale blue nod[1].gif
post #22031 of 39219

Sounds like the shirt is gonna be truly incredible, I'm excited to place my order.

I think if was a good call to get rid of some of those details like the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs, it would've been a bit much.
And wow, you weren't kidding about those buttons being thick, the only other shirt I've seen with buttons that thick are the ones by Barba.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Design is going to be as unfussy and classical as they come. Locker loop, box pleat. Fit will be slim but I'm straying away from the too-tapered/darted look. I'd like to take the silhouette back away from the hips.

 

 

Whose shirts would you compare the slimness to? Will it be anything like BoO or Gitman?
 

post #22032 of 39219

Got my jackets in the mail today:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CM is calfskin. I feel like I would've been better off with lamb. The calf will take a while to break in.

 

Btw, anyone know how to mold the collar to something like these:

http://toj-gallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=5699

http://toj-gallery.com/main.php?g2_itemId=12815

 

I feel like the collar looks a bit weird right now and if I'm able to mold it into something like in the 2 pics above, it would look better. 

post #22033 of 39219
I got a CM in calf as well, when I first got it I had my doubts about the calf vs lamb but you will see once it breaks in that it was the right choice, goes from looking like shiny rubber to the most badass material ever. Best thing I can relate it to is flexible pitch black hammered brass. As for the collar just take the tips and tug them down constantly for like a week, they will get softer from the oil in your hands and take whatever shape you pull them into.
post #22034 of 39219

I used some obenauf's leather oil and just went at it with my hands, then used some clips to keep it down for 1 night and voila!  

 

I think Drew mentioned in the past that he just soaked the collar (in water), to make it more pliable and just molded it from there (not 100% sure).

 

As for the second picture you linked, it actually looks like the guy has snaps to keep the collar down like that.  

post #22035 of 39219
Thread Starter 
I think I mentioned this before but no one took me seriously - wet
(if lamb) and condition if calf, saturate it til it's floppy, then use a large rubber band like that which you get on a bunch of broccoli from the supermarket, or a hipster girls headband. Hang it zipped up, collar closed that way overnight or for a couple nights, refresh as necessary -It will keep the collar held in the middle with that reverse roll.
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