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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1457

post #21841 of 30674
8/7/12 at 9:09pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

Will the shirt be completely machine sewn or will there be hand sewing (shoulders/button holes/etc...) involved? Will the buttons be shanked or sewn on flat like most shirts?

I want it to go to about half handwork and then the vital seams by machine, the same that you would expect from a top-level ready-made European dress shirt. The sleeveheads, cuffs, yokes - it will be apparent they are attached by hand when you look at them. Up close, like a European dress shirt, you will see the pickstitch around the scye and shoulder. Buttonholes will probably be darned by hand, buttons will be chickenfooted on. The sides will have proper gussets, and a nice single needle stitch in two parts (body and sleeve single-needled separately) - cuffs and collars will have full floating interface. We are talking the full meal deal. Add in Japanese selvedge oxford cloth and the thickest pure MOP dished buttons I've ever seen on any shirt.

There's a problem forming; the shirts are going to be at such a high level, where I will need to bring everything else up to the appropriate level if I want any kind of consistency. Looks like I have some work to do. redface.gif This is how I want TOJ to be, going forward though. Similar to what you know, but I'm looking for that next level.
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post #21842 of 30674
8/7/12 at 10:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synthese View Post

I hate to change the topic here, but Drew, is there any chance of a really nice wool bomber this fall? My girlfriend really wants a bomber and thinks she wants wool, instead of the brown lamb she almost ended up with last year. Not that I'm uninterested, of course, but you did mention an expanded women's lineup, and as she's in love with her DR I can very easily see her acquiring a couple more pieces, especially if some diversity is available. Also, I haven't forgotten to PM you, I just have to gather my thoughts a bit.

Hard to say with the women's stuff right now. Would like to interview some of my female friends and see what they'd wish for me to make. That way I can push forward on the women's things naturally, like the men's side has always been.
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post #21843 of 30674
8/7/12 at 11:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I want it to go to about half handwork and then the vital seams by machine, the same that you would expect from a top-level ready-made European dress shirt. The sleeveheads, cuffs, yokes - it will be apparent they are attached by hand when you look at them. Up close, like a European dress shirt, you will see the pickstitch around the scye and shoulder. Buttonholes will probably be darned by hand, buttons will be chickenfooted on. The sides will have proper gussets, and a nice single needle stitch in two parts (body and sleeve single-needled separately) - cuffs and collars will have full floating interface. We are talking the full meal deal. Add in Japanese selvedge oxford cloth and the thickest pure MOP dished buttons I've ever seen on any shirt.
There's a problem forming; the shirts are going to be at such a high level, where I will need to bring everything else up to the appropriate level if I want any kind of consistency. Looks like I have some work to do. redface.gif This is how I want TOJ to be, going forward though. Similar to what you know, but I'm looking for that next level.

Sounds like a very interesting project. My shirtmaker doesn't offer hand sewing but I've always admired those Borrelli / Finamore / etc shirts with the altoid buttons. Have a look at MC and the London Lounge, there are some threads that might contain some useful info for ways to guide your shirtmaker

http://www.styleforum.net/t/165024/the-ocbd-collar-roll-thread

http://www.styleforum.net/t/282854/a-view-on-neapolitan-shirtmakers-and-hand-finishes/0_100

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=183&start=0
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post #21844 of 30674
8/7/12 at 11:49pm
Thread Starter 
Yep, one of my favorite dress shirts is a Truzzi, it is well made. Lots of handwork, down to the buttonholes, and felled scyes/yoke. It's not really in the TOJ aesthetic, so I was motivated to bring that level of craftmanship into TOJ, it's a really great feeling to just pore over the shirt and notice all the areas of attention. Something very human and romantic about it, that you can't get from those 100% machine made shirts.

I have a Formicola shirt too (we're talking about Naples vs Milan here) - it's relatively similar but 100% machine made. I only like the shirt a little, mainly for the nice buttons.

I've just been hanging out with friends and they've all pretty much gone to wearing OCBDs all the time, would be nice to get them into something upgraded from a Uniqlo or something. You've got to appreciate nice things to understand the point of this TOJ v2 shirt, but I think people will.
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post #21845 of 30674
8/8/12 at 5:41am

These silver zips man, I get shivers down my spine when I use them. So chunky.

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post #21846 of 30674
8/8/12 at 7:40am
Are there thoughts of non-bd dress shirts. TOJ suits?
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post #21847 of 30674
8/8/12 at 7:56am
All I can do.

bowdown.gif187829_204464202925111_4224130_n.jpg
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post #21848 of 30674
8/8/12 at 8:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeneas View Post

Are there thoughts of non-bd dress shirts. TOJ suits?

if you thought the sizing questions for leather jackets were bad, the nitpicking for suits would be about 1000x worse.
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post #21849 of 30674
8/8/12 at 9:25am
I believe Drew has stated before that ToJ will never do suits.
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post #21850 of 30674
8/8/12 at 11:06am

Pardon the ignorance of this question, but is ToJ still in production? Or is the hiatus happening? Someone just asked if ToJ was producing a bomber in the fall, and that question alone made me second guess what i previously thought

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post #21851 of 30674
8/8/12 at 11:14am
TOJ is on hiatus as far as jackets are concerned, I believe pants are available albeit with limited email help, shirts may be forthcoming
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post #21852 of 30674
8/8/12 at 11:21am
OCBDs, I'm interested.
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post #21853 of 30674
8/8/12 at 12:36pm

I'd definitely be interested in some next level OCBDs.

 

Are there any further thoughts on the "Ultimate Varsity" mentioned right before the hiatus? There weren't really any details given, but I'm curious to see what direction that could take.
 

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post #21854 of 30674
8/8/12 at 1:22pm
I'm not in a place in my life to be buying next level OCBDs, but as someone who could wear an OCBD every day, this sounds amazing.
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post #21855 of 30674
8/8/12 at 2:14pm
Just sell your bicycle.
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