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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1457

post #21841 of 39200
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I want it to go to about half handwork and then the vital seams by machine, the same that you would expect from a top-level ready-made European dress shirt. The sleeveheads, cuffs, yokes - it will be apparent they are attached by hand when you look at them. Up close, like a European dress shirt, you will see the pickstitch around the scye and shoulder. Buttonholes will probably be darned by hand, buttons will be chickenfooted on. The sides will have proper gussets, and a nice single needle stitch in two parts (body and sleeve single-needled separately) - cuffs and collars will have full floating interface. We are talking the full meal deal. Add in Japanese selvedge oxford cloth and the thickest pure MOP dished buttons I've ever seen on any shirt.
There's a problem forming; the shirts are going to be at such a high level, where I will need to bring everything else up to the appropriate level if I want any kind of consistency. Looks like I have some work to do. redface.gif This is how I want TOJ to be, going forward though. Similar to what you know, but I'm looking for that next level.

Sounds like a very interesting project. My shirtmaker doesn't offer hand sewing but I've always admired those Borrelli / Finamore / etc shirts with the altoid buttons. Have a look at MC and the London Lounge, there are some threads that might contain some useful info for ways to guide your shirtmaker

http://www.styleforum.net/t/165024/the-ocbd-collar-roll-thread

http://www.styleforum.net/t/282854/a-view-on-neapolitan-shirtmakers-and-hand-finishes/0_100

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=183&start=0
post #21842 of 39200
Thread Starter 
Yep, one of my favorite dress shirts is a Truzzi, it is well made. Lots of handwork, down to the buttonholes, and felled scyes/yoke. It's not really in the TOJ aesthetic, so I was motivated to bring that level of craftmanship into TOJ, it's a really great feeling to just pore over the shirt and notice all the areas of attention. Something very human and romantic about it, that you can't get from those 100% machine made shirts.

I have a Formicola shirt too (we're talking about Naples vs Milan here) - it's relatively similar but 100% machine made. I only like the shirt a little, mainly for the nice buttons.

I've just been hanging out with friends and they've all pretty much gone to wearing OCBDs all the time, would be nice to get them into something upgraded from a Uniqlo or something. You've got to appreciate nice things to understand the point of this TOJ v2 shirt, but I think people will.
post #21843 of 39200

These silver zips man, I get shivers down my spine when I use them. So chunky.

post #21844 of 39200
Are there thoughts of non-bd dress shirts. TOJ suits?
post #21845 of 39200
All I can do.

bowdown.gif187829_204464202925111_4224130_n.jpg
post #21846 of 39200
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeneas View Post

Are there thoughts of non-bd dress shirts. TOJ suits?

if you thought the sizing questions for leather jackets were bad, the nitpicking for suits would be about 1000x worse.
post #21847 of 39200
I believe Drew has stated before that ToJ will never do suits.
post #21848 of 39200

Pardon the ignorance of this question, but is ToJ still in production? Or is the hiatus happening? Someone just asked if ToJ was producing a bomber in the fall, and that question alone made me second guess what i previously thought

post #21849 of 39200
TOJ is on hiatus as far as jackets are concerned, I believe pants are available albeit with limited email help, shirts may be forthcoming
post #21850 of 39200
OCBDs, I'm interested.
post #21851 of 39200

I'd definitely be interested in some next level OCBDs.

 

Are there any further thoughts on the "Ultimate Varsity" mentioned right before the hiatus? There weren't really any details given, but I'm curious to see what direction that could take.
 

post #21852 of 39200
I'm not in a place in my life to be buying next level OCBDs, but as someone who could wear an OCBD every day, this sounds amazing.
post #21853 of 39200
Just sell your bicycle.
post #21854 of 39200
Silly question but will v1 still be available?
Papa snow wants one. I showed him some of your older stuff the other day and he asked me why I didn't show him the oxfords before he bought some brooks brothers ocbds lol.
If not I'll try to get him to splurge.
Is it only coming in that blue fabric (v2)?
post #21855 of 39200
^ drew mentioned a blue and a white version as of now I believe.
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