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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1456

post #21826 of 44906
I'd be down for a tastefully patterned flannel shirt for this fall and winter if such a thing were to be offered sometime down the line.

But let's not get ahead of ourselves - I am looking forward to this ocbd that's in development.
post #21827 of 44906
Thread Starter 
kinda iffy on offering V2 as a flannel or something - I mean that'd be really laying it on thick, I can appreciate a sick oxford at the level I want to make, and I could also get some nice flannel cloth in Japan now - but put all of it together, does a flannel shirt need to be put together like an Italian handmade shirt? That's gilding the lily a bit. I'd fight for the right to have a unnecessarily rare and luxuriant oxford worth saving and giving to your offspring or wife, but flannel, not sure. lol
post #21828 of 44906
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Oh, and we'll continue to use the same size chart, but with v2, I'm open to allowing length changes. That suits most people. I really like the TOJ shirt block, I just wish I could push the quality way up to untouchable status - and now, that's what I am going to attempt to do.
If there's a genuine need for MTM and people can handle the responsibility of measuring themselves, I can consider that too. Part of it being the ultimate shirt means it needs to fit properly too, obviously. Since it's mostly a casual shirt, we may only need basic measurements, like 4 or 5.

I missed this too...good to hear MTM is not off the table entirely.
post #21829 of 44906
Quote:
Originally Posted by pistolero View Post

I have several TOJ MTM shirts from the brief period when there were tons of fabric options besides the standard OCBD. The buffalo check is my favorite shirt right now, the fabric breathes nicely in the summer and the fit is perfect. My only regret is that I didn't order 10 more at the time.

This will sound terrible, but flipping through a lot of the old fabric swatches for those shirts was what made me take note of ToJ. Before that, I always just scrolled past the thread, figuring it was of no interest to me (couldn't fathom wearing a leather jacket or varsity at that point).
post #21830 of 44906
TOJ x matuozzo?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post




post #21831 of 44906
Quote:
Originally Posted by APK View Post

This will sound terrible, but flipping through a lot of the old fabric swatches for those shirts was what made me take note of ToJ. Before that, I always just scrolled past the thread, figuring it was of no interest to me (couldn't fathom wearing a leather jacket or varsity at that point).
I wasn't interested in the brand until I read Drew's thoughts on shearling and trenchcoats. It was the description of the materials and processes that go into his jackets that opened me up to TOJ, and that got me curious about what the brand was like aesthetically. I was blown away by the design of the BCDR (seriously, murked out lamb bcdr - just name your price, Mr. TOJ!), the CWU-45, and the A2. Since then, I've bought the CWU-45 and A2, the TOJ1, and the 2010DR and MDR. I regret not becoming interested in the oxfords, dress shirts, and safaris while they were still available, but from the sound of it, better things are on their way.
post #21832 of 44906
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Oh, and we'll continue to use the same size chart, but with v2, I'm open to allowing length changes. That suits most people. I really like the TOJ shirt block, I just wish I could push the quality way up to untouchable status - and now, that's what I am going to attempt to do.
If there's a genuine need for MTM and people can handle the responsibility of measuring themselves, I can consider that too. Part of it being the ultimate shirt means it needs to fit properly too, obviously. Since it's mostly a casual shirt, we may only need basic measurements, like 4 or 5.

The potential sleeve length tweak is clutch...This sounds epic and my only concern being 6'3 was sleeve length. Can't wait - this is going to put all my Thom Browne oxfords to shame.
post #21833 of 44906
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one

Oh, and we'll continue to use the same size chart, but with v2, I'm open to allowing length changes. That suits most people. I really like the TOJ shirt block, I just wish I could push the quality way up to untouchable status - and now, that's what I am going to attempt to do.
If there's a genuine need for MTM and people can handle the responsibility of measuring themselves, I can consider that too. Part of it being the ultimate shirt means it needs to fit properly too, obviously. Since it's mostly a casual shirt, we may only need basic measurements, like 4 or 5.

OOOOhhhhh... If you've already got measurements for a jacket, would that suffice?
post #21834 of 44906
Hey guys new to TOJ, I'm a little over 6 ft, around 170 pounds, fairly slim with fairly broad shoulders, would 50 be the right size for the TOJ 1 varsity??

Thanks.
post #21835 of 44906
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

TOJ x matuozzo?

yep, think of what might happen if Anna Matuozzo and Thom Browne had a baby and it came out looking like a shirt.... I want it to be an oxford shirt in style for sure, with no compromises there, but I am a fan of the hand-attached sleeves and cuffs, yoke, etc, and I seek that perfect collar roll, so the collar and cuffs will be floating, unfused interface. Foo's pickstitch down the shoulder line is a bit loud for my tastes though. I wouldn't have it looking like it was trying so hard. You'll recognize the TOJ oxford when you see it, but to most, it will just look like this nice oxford shirt with a more organic cut and drape to it than their shirt has. To the guys who don't frequent MC, it's like the visual difference between a cheap H+M suit and a bespoke suit with full floating canvas, nice materials, etc.
post #21836 of 44906
Buy TOJ so you can swim in a sea of a thousand jawnz.
post #21837 of 44906
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I don't know what she will charge me for labor, so we'll have to see. It obviously won't be cheap, I can tell you that - the fabric alone at raw cost is almost $50 on it's own, and we're talking one woman making the entire shirt on her own, mostly by hand. She has experience making shirts in Europe for the big names. Needless to say, it won't be price battling with all the factory-made OCBDs on the market. I suspect we won't sell too many of them, as they won't be cheap enough to cop in the multiples - but there's only going to be the two or three possible colors anyway, so it won't be one of those situations where you feel like you 'gotta catch em all' and end up spending $2000 on cheaply made shirts. I'm trying to go for the opposite here, quality over quantity. I just wear the same white BBBF oxford most days. It fits absolutely horrifically, but it is made pretty well. I need to get something even more nicely made, in a fit I like. If I can do that, I might finally reach staple status with it, wear it til it's frayed, wear it even past that point.
I think if she's not too busy, we might be able to see it release on it's own this month. Separate manufacturing means it's not related to the load of jacket orders.

Will the shirt be completely machine sewn or will there be hand sewing (shoulders/button holes/etc...) involved? Will the buttons be shanked or sewn on flat like most shirts?
post #21838 of 44906
I hate to change the topic here, but Drew, is there any chance of a really nice wool bomber this fall? My girlfriend really wants a bomber and thinks she wants wool, instead of the brown lamb she almost ended up with last year. Not that I'm uninterested, of course, but you did mention an expanded women's lineup, and as she's in love with her DR I can very easily see her acquiring a couple more pieces, especially if some diversity is available. Also, I haven't forgotten to PM you, I just have to gather my thoughts a bit.
post #21839 of 44906
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

Will the shirt be completely machine sewn or will there be hand sewing (shoulders/button holes/etc...) involved? Will the buttons be shanked or sewn on flat like most shirts?

I want it to go to about half handwork and then the vital seams by machine, the same that you would expect from a top-level ready-made European dress shirt. The sleeveheads, cuffs, yokes - it will be apparent they are attached by hand when you look at them. Up close, like a European dress shirt, you will see the pickstitch around the scye and shoulder. Buttonholes will probably be darned by hand, buttons will be chickenfooted on. The sides will have proper gussets, and a nice single needle stitch in two parts (body and sleeve single-needled separately) - cuffs and collars will have full floating interface. We are talking the full meal deal. Add in Japanese selvedge oxford cloth and the thickest pure MOP dished buttons I've ever seen on any shirt.

There's a problem forming; the shirts are going to be at such a high level, where I will need to bring everything else up to the appropriate level if I want any kind of consistency. Looks like I have some work to do. redface.gif This is how I want TOJ to be, going forward though. Similar to what you know, but I'm looking for that next level.
post #21840 of 44906
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synthese View Post

I hate to change the topic here, but Drew, is there any chance of a really nice wool bomber this fall? My girlfriend really wants a bomber and thinks she wants wool, instead of the brown lamb she almost ended up with last year. Not that I'm uninterested, of course, but you did mention an expanded women's lineup, and as she's in love with her DR I can very easily see her acquiring a couple more pieces, especially if some diversity is available. Also, I haven't forgotten to PM you, I just have to gather my thoughts a bit.

Hard to say with the women's stuff right now. Would like to interview some of my female friends and see what they'd wish for me to make. That way I can push forward on the women's things naturally, like the men's side has always been.
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