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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1449

post #21721 of 41227

yes I bought it from cityhunter

post #21722 of 41227
Quote:
Originally Posted by bows1 View Post

the handle ripped off my ToJ tote. It was my favorite frown.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by artishard116 View Post

want me to sew it? reinforced mine when they started coming loose.

How cute. shog[1].gif
post #21723 of 41227

My 4-zip has been in customs for 4 days. Hoping this is routine, didn't have to wait at all for my ocbds. Kinda worried.

post #21724 of 41227
Surprise email from Drew resulted in this:

JWcYfl.jpg

First thoughts: Perfect fit this time. The silver hardware is really fantastic, as is the banded hem. I liked the sleeves on my old jacket, so the convertibles don't feel like a step up. Zipper is different in movement, too, but I'm not sure how to describe it.

"Downsides" - or just "asides": Much more visible grain on this leather, stiffer feel too. I'll have to see if it breaks in differently. Pooches out a bit in the stomach, that could settle as well, but is maybe also a function of the hem style and single-direction zipper. It could just be because I owned the 2010, but the torso feels maybe a bit naked without the buckles - could be because I'm 6'1 and the jacket is sized accordingly.

Overall: Much less of a superhero-type jacket. Slouchy, lots of character, lots of really nice detailing, as usual. Feels more "TOJ" than the 2010, and although it's kind of moot now, still the best your bones can buy. Construction is insane, as usual, and feels like slipping back into a second skin.

cooking brussel sprouts with pancetta now, it's cheating but it's the only way to make them taste good.
post #21725 of 41227
Why the hell did Drew get rid of the double zip anyways? I think it's one of the most functional bits on my DR, use it every time I zip up. Seems like a real downgrade
post #21726 of 41227
SHITS GONE CRAY CRAY
Edited by Razele - 8/1/12 at 7:44pm
post #21727 of 41227
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashwindow View Post

I already have a brown lamb and now I'm getting the grey suede. This really only leaves the fishtail (considering I live in CO this will be super useful) and a blue harrington on my wishlist that one I saw earlier on the page was inlove.gif .

That grey a-1 is really really nice man.

If it doesnt work out for you I'm happy to buy it from you / trade nice stuff (and I think everyone knows my nice stuff is the shit)
post #21728 of 41227
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razele View Post

Do you people know that tailors can replace zips? Guys on SZ get generic zips replaced with RiRi's all the time IIRC.
Note: I do not care at all about brand name zips, this is just information for the tards that do

oh christ, do NOT open that can of worms. As soon as you say that, 15 people will email me and say they've ordered some random zippers and taken their jackets to a tailor's, and now the jackets are fucked up beyond belief and expect me to listen.
post #21729 of 41227
I edited it out, didnt realise people would be that retarded

What has this thing become???
post #21730 of 41227
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashwindow View Post

yes I bought it from cityhunter

I really should thank Willie for posting my sales link here. It sold like 15 minutes After he did it after a few days of nothing.

Enjoy it. That thing is essentially unworn unless CityHunter wore it a lot but doubtful in that CA heat.
post #21731 of 41227
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdeuce22 View Post

I really should thank Willie for posting my sales link here. It sold like 15 minutes After he did it after a few days of nothing.
Enjoy it. That thing is essentially unworn unless CityHunter wore it a lot but doubtful in that CA heat.

yea really considering buying yours when it first came out. but i know i wont wear it in this terrible asian weather.
post #21732 of 41227
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

What is the collection? Just some leather jackets? Some of them look a lot like your neighborhood friendly designer's... redface.gif
Anyway, that is the age-old question - "what could I do if _________?" - and there are myriad answers to that.
If someone threw me a bone and said, here's a bunch of money, make nice clothes to sell, make them attractive enough to buy so that we make some money back - then that's easy. I don't think it works exactly that way, but then again, in some of those scenarios, it does work similarly I guess. APC seems to have that experimental itch, that desire to make nice clothes without having to stuff the bank on everything - sometimes it truly is just for fun. Sometimes, those things aren't even really appreciated that much, I mean, do you guys really care about the APC quilts or APC Madras by Jessica Ogden? APC has the jeans to make them a little money and they turn out a staple line of clothes, and then some fun stuff. I can appreciate that, but it's not necessarily even what I want to do - they always have a lot of filler still, I don't do filler just to have filler.
As you guys know, there's a bunch of stuff I've always wanted to make - most can't be justified in my position, there's a lot of time and money needed to make things happen sometimes. Clothes are a creation, and can involve several sub-recipes within a master recipe. At my scale, my kitchen is too small to turn out tons of those sub-recipes like a big kitchen with seemingly unlimited resources can. Say I wanted to make something in an exact fabric - well if I was big, I could just design the fabric and order it up, at big expense that will be recouped through sales. If I want Riri zippers to please the internet zipper experts, I'd have to order them up 6 months ahead of time hoping I'd get all the specs and lengths and executions and spare parts correct in one order, and then spend many thousands there. They'd please, but I can do things my way and not sacrifice the important things. At my level, I've got to go out there and parse through some choices, sometimes compromise on what it is I want in order to achieve a certain quality and feel. I usually have to give up color choices, and patterns are just a pipe dream often times, but I'd do something in a different color if it meant staying with the material content I want. I can't open a box of crayolas and point to a color and hope the exact color and quality of leather/kind of leather I want co-exists in one in-stock leather. Sometimes I hit the jackpot and get ahold of things like that whisky and red/greens/blue/graphite calfskin from Italy, but those are rare and I have to cherish them.
To be sure though, having larger resources would make for a bigger variety in the material pool alone. The scale of TOJ sales is actually there to support it, but the model is not set up so that I can invest tens of thousands into making something and exact way and then casting my dice to make sure everything sells out. That's the old retail model, and I think parts of it are broken. There's other models of retail nowadays, but I wouldn't want to do them that way either really - just my philosophy coming into play. Which kind of restaurant would you rather eat at - one where the food is all pre-made quite far in advance, and then set out like a buffet for nameless people to look at and graze on? Or a restaurant where people want to know your name so that they can make your order to your liking? To me, one suits personal style more.
There's a ton of upstart fashion designers all the time, a lot of them just want to make print tees, whatever, I dunno - but one thing is for certain, a lot of them just want the riches and to be famous, as if making clothes and the fame and fortune were supposed to go hand in hand. I almost feel that the distraction of that takes away from the product sometimes. It's often like the restaurant/bar business (haha, let me go on once again) where there's a glamorous allure to be in that business for many, but the reality of it is that these businesses require attention to certain areas to become great, and most don't do this. That's why so many restaurants/bars are shitty, people have too many selfish reasons for having their businesses and don't care at all about the work they attach their names to, or they themselves actually think it's good stuff and that's what they want to offer.
In any case, the broader question - if I had more resources, would TOJ be better? Yes. Not even commensurately, probably exponentially.


Coming back to this post to add some more to it, as I thought even further on the topic and mulled over some things -

I'm looking for two jobs to be filled at TOJ, and now is a good point in time with our operations to be talking about this:

One is a beginner's level job that can only be filled in Seoul. I need someone who can do communicating with locals and improve our resource spread, develop relationships, and help with production. Obviously, this person needs to be a native Korean or someone who can speak native-level Korean. Unfortunately, that is my need, so I can't budge from that and accept a different skill set to supplicate for that - the primary job skill with be speaking with people. I have no education or previous work requirements for this job, and the work hours and schedule will be mostly a self-responsbility. I will have tasks to be performed, and all I ask is that they be done to satisfaction. I don't care at what hour of the day or what day of the week they are done on, as long as they are done by deadline and done with thoroughness. Quite simple.
I realize most people on styleforum are not in Korea, nor can they speak Korean, but just throwing that out there. Would obviously prefer someone who is interested in clothing, but even then, as long as someone is just a diligent worker with the kind of responsibility to be able to appreciate the kind of job terms I am offering - it could be great. There's not much work to do, and if someone was both very smart and efficient, it could be a matter of a few minutes on the day. I will pay a flat monthly salary rate for this job if the tasks are completed without fail. The job will be conditional month to month, but I am open to it being a full-time, long-term position.

Second is a big job, and relates to the above previous post. I've talked about this in times before and other big projects, and then got busy and forgot about it - but basically, I'm looking for someone who would be interested in buying TOJ. There is a twist this time around - previously, I had wanted to spin off the business and all of the tangible assets, provide training, and let someone try their hand at it from the very middle of the operation. I had some counter offers that asked if I would continue as designer, and at the time, I wanted to move countries and just do something else. Now, a year or more later, I am willing to do that, continue as designer if required, bring out my planned items in the reboot, do my job as-is basically. I just will no longer be the accountant, basically. I have an accountant, so I am not looking for accounting services - I'm looking for someone who would like to buy an incredibly strong, living, breathing investment with safe numbers, willing to be a manager of sorts (this is optional but preferred) and also be the one to make the decisions about money tie-ups involving those pre-order materials and pieces as I've talked about (custom fabric, zipper bulk orders, etc). I would like to continue living in Japan, and I feel strongly about continuing work with my workers in Seoul as I feel they're very talented and have done just what is needed, they're part of the magic. The actual 'owner' can live anywhere, and we can communicate electronically, which is best as it's free and clear, or we can meet up periodically somewhere around the world as well. I see the latter as unnecessary but some might just want to do it to do it.

Why am I doing this? Well, to be honest, after 3 years - I am willing to cede the 'boss' role of TOJ if it means bringing in better equipment, a better business plan, and more of what people want to see out of this project. People most commonly ask me - 'why isn't TOJ bigger?' or 'what would TOJ be like if it were sold in stores/bigger than it is now?' etc, etc - and to be honest, I am just doing things in my own style, my own methodology, the safety zone. I've always used the analogy of a small restaurant with a chef who doesn't mind there being a big lineup outside to get a seat at one of my few tables. With this, I'm not saying let's take the small restaurant and turn into a franchise chain, I'm saying, 'what if we move premises to a still modest, but slightly more accomodating facility?' or 'what if we doubled the seat area? the line outside says we would be ok'
If someone had deeper pockets than I, someone who doesn't react the same way as I do to the idea of investing in a money tie-up to order $5,000 of Riri zippers, or putting $15,000 into getting a custom run of the 4oz horsehide everybody wants but we never have - that would be great, obviously. It's a 'you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours' thing, but I envision the relationship, at it's least active - (we'll call this the 'buying a house buy never moving into it' scenario) - the whole thing can continue as is, healthily but small, and 3 or 4 of us would work under a new owner on salaries, and it's up to the owner to steer the surplus and his investment accordingly. I've never heard of too many small businesses asking for a takeover when they're as healthy as mine (TOJ has worked never worked with debt, since day one) - this is more like an opportunity for a bit of work to be taken off my back in exchange for a slice of the profits. I'm willing to do that now, because it's now 3 years down the line and I'd rather choose to keep designing the clothes and make what I've dreamed of making - but if it means having to be a multi-purpose accountant/designer/manager forever, I might end up quitting and doing whatever else it is I'd like to do.

I'm working on a plan to create to a chain restaurant in America that I feel insanely passionate about right now, it feels better than love. I've been thinking on this for months now, it just came to me in an instant and it's not gone away, it's only made itself clearer to me over time. It's not Mexican food but I admire the expansion and buyout/buy-back of Chipotle and their controlled sprawl/product, so I keep thinking about it all the time - that's why I had that dream about me and Synthese driving around Denver looking for Chipotle's original store. I was just studying it like the day before. Anyhow, to that end - that's my long term project, if someone were to join me at TOJ, I'd also offer some sort of opportunity to join me in this unrelated venture in return, as well. I'd like to have a national/international chain restaurant that people are proud to eat at, and use a similar method as TOJ has done to offer a honest product that explains itself at a fair price. That's getting far ahead of my point now, so back to the clothes -

I will say that the numbers stack up nicely, the model is set up so that the business does not need to carry debt if one chooses to continue my model - anyone seriously interested (I will need an intro and a prospectus to take you seriously, I know a few guys already from talking to them) - if I see serious interest, I will put forth some numbers from previous records as well as projections. I have only rough numbers in mind for what I'd like to get for my stuff yet, but these can be negotiated as we see fit.
post #21733 of 41227
Thread Starter 
Also, want to point out that at the same time I offered TOJ for sale for the first time, I had an alternate offer of training aspiring designers to produce their own clothing/start their own businesses - I'm now doing that with TOJ Labs, so that is struck off the offer sheet this time around.
post #21734 of 41227
Why didn't I notice that the sleeve zips are visible without using the convertible cuffs redface.gif
Anyways I just bought an 05 raf perfecto so if it looks good I'll be splurging on the toj 4 zip icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #21735 of 41227
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Second is a big job, and relates to the above previous post. I've talked about this in times before and other big projects, and then got busy and forgot about it - but basically, I'm looking for someone who would be interested in buying TOJ. There is a twist this time around - previously, I had wanted to spin off the business and all of the tangible assets, provide training, and let someone try their hand at it from the very middle of the operation. I had some counter offers that asked if I would continue as designer, and at the time, I wanted to move countries and just do something else. Now, a year or more later, I am willing to do that, continue as designer if required, bring out my planned items in the reboot, do my job as-is basically. I just will no longer be the accountant, basically. I have an accountant, so I am not looking for accounting services - I'm looking for someone who would like to buy an incredibly strong, living, breathing investment with safe numbers, willing to be a manager of sorts (this is optional but preferred) and also be the one to make the decisions about money tie-ups involving those pre-order materials and pieces as I've talked about (custom fabric, zipper bulk orders, etc). I would like to continue living in Japan, and I feel strongly about continuing work with my workers in Seoul as I feel they're very talented and have done just what is needed, they're part of the magic. The actual 'owner' can live anywhere, and we can communicate electronically, which is best as it's free and clear, or we can meet up periodically somewhere around the world as well. I see the latter as unnecessary but some might just want to do it to do it.
Why am I doing this? Well, to be honest, after 3 years - I am willing to cede the 'boss' role of TOJ if it means bringing in better equipment, a better business plan, and more of what people want to see out of this project. People most commonly ask me - 'why isn't TOJ bigger?' or 'what would TOJ be like if it were sold in stores/bigger than it is now?' etc, etc - and to be honest, I am just doing things in my own style, my own methodology, the safety zone. I've always used the analogy of a small restaurant with a chef who doesn't mind there being a big lineup outside to get a seat at one of my few tables. With this, I'm not saying let's take the small restaurant and turn into a franchise chain, I'm saying, 'what if we move premises to a still modest, but slightly more accomodating facility?' or 'what if we doubled the seat area? the line outside says we would be ok'
If someone had deeper pockets than I, someone who doesn't react the same way as I do to the idea of investing in a money tie-up to order $5,000 of Riri zippers, or putting $15,000 into getting a custom run of the 4oz horsehide everybody wants but we never have - that would be great, obviously. It's a 'you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours' thing, but I envision the relationship, at it's least active - (we'll call this the 'buying a house buy never moving into it' scenario) - the whole thing can continue as is, healthily but small, and 3 or 4 of us would work under a new owner on salaries, and it's up to the owner to steer the surplus and his investment accordingly. I've never heard of too many small businesses asking for a takeover when they're as healthy as mine (TOJ has worked never worked with debt, since day one) - this is more like an opportunity for a bit of work to be taken off my back in exchange for a slice of the profits. I'm willing to do that now, because it's now 3 years down the line and I'd rather choose to keep designing the clothes and make what I've dreamed of making - but if it means having to be a multi-purpose accountant/designer/manager forever, I might end up quitting and doing whatever else it is I'd like to do.


The last paragraph makes it sound more like an investor, than a buyer.
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