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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1416

post #21226 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I don't think I am gonna wake up tomorrow and become a producer of technical clothes, nor does Undercover really provide much inspiration for me personally. I think it's a brand both overrated and highly misunderstood, but that's a conversation for another day.

this sounds interesting, off to RFT!

darn looks like no ToJ hoodcoat redface.gif hopefully a really nice minimalist-ish wool coat kind of deal will be in the winter lineup though
post #21227 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1445 View Post

seriously dude? 

Yes, very much, do you have any idea about, how hard it is to find dog leashes that doesn't look like shit in a nice quality?

Quote:
Originally Posted by teenagelightning View Post

don't make these but do make a 20 minute in-depth video detailing how to measure your dog for mtm

Who said anything about MTM, I just want a nice high quality dog leash without paying through the nose, the current one I have is Elk and with the collar was around 200$.

Dog collars come in 10cm intervals.
post #21228 of 42665

http://www.tannergoods.com/collections/canine

Tanner makes high quality stuff, i have a wallet of theirs

post #21229 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1445 View Post

http://www.tannergoods.com/collections/canine
Tanner makes high quality stuff, i have a wallet of theirs

I don't like the design also I prefer round collars and leashes, as they don't rub the dogs coat (it's a long haired breed) and are more comfortable to hold.
post #21230 of 42665
Everyone is overlooking the blindingly obvious:

TOJ Megaman.

... in serious Synth do you still have that jacket?
post #21231 of 42665
Oh, yes. How awesome would that be in quilted white lamb leather?
post #21232 of 42665
Toj backpack
post #21233 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synthese View Post

Oh, yes. How awesome would that be in quilted white lamb leather?
I believe the answer is, PRETTY AWESOME. Yours is grey, yes? I always wanted to try on the navy one.

Re: backpack stuff, it seems to me that the TOJ suedepack is one of the most coveted discontinued items, no? Maybe it was one of those things like the BCDR where everyone was all bounce2.gif but no one stepped up and actually bought it. I'd potentially buy a bag depending on what it was like, but stuff like backpacks at this point have more or less no practicality for me personally.
post #21234 of 42665

Well, I don´t have a toj (yeah, I suck, I know), but I like the idea of a TOJ trenchcoat. I think drew would have a lot to work with and it´d look pretty sick.

post #21235 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razele View Post

All this tech ninja requests and knitted sleeve perfecto wants reminds me of how I said that Undercover was gonna get big...

I check that thread from time to time as the designer-customer direct e-relationship is something you don't see often. However it would appear a lot of people here just want ToJ to do very specific designs of things that already exist and can be acquired on Y!, sufu or even at active retailers. A brand that is a mish-mash of very brand/collection contextual designs from other brands is pure bullshit, dunno why you'd like that. If I want a 5 zip I will go to Margiela not here. A2 or whatever are different because they are generic styles that ToJ basically tweaked to interest guys interested in contemporary design and styling but not in a extreme way, some of the designs chosen also have a Korean dimension in the sense that non-wimpy looking older Korean guys from the working classes might still wear some of their military service pieces or something very similar. This is a brand identity, a sorta contemporary-classic feel, doing "best of styleforum" mashups isn't.
post #21236 of 42665
ToJ brand instant ramen, comes with real lambskin seasoning packet.
post #21237 of 42665

Drew do you have any source for decent wools?  I think if I were in your position I'd be trying to design a waist-length or possibly 3/4-length late fall/winter wool bomber/car coat, something less formal than the chesterfield, less "winter in Alaska" than the fishtail, and a little more unique than the peacoat.

 

I have a black wool V. Branquinho bomber that I could wear forever - it fits in the same spot stylistically as I imagine a lot of the ToJ jackets do (minus the DRs), but it's warm enough for all but the coldest days.  

post #21238 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synthese View Post

WINTER IS COMING

...and there must always be a ToJ thread on SW&D
post #21239 of 42665
seriosly though drew hair on hide backpack like the one i photoshopped.
PLEASE.
post #21240 of 42665
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

244txeq.jpg
Key:
Red: TOJ
Green: Superfuture
Yellow: Styleforum
Purple: Uncontrol
In the end I didn't bother to lasso Styelzeitgeist, as it's a 90/10 or 80/10/10 deal where they would want to consider themselves strictly Mode, but have tendencies towards street 'money/clothes' concept and there's the Hollywood celeb factor that they say they ignore, but is not ignorable, and frankly that idea centers more in the top right box.
Anyway, so to give you an idea of what this graph represents, it's all Japanese fashion magazines. As most may know, Japanese fashion magazines are very specific and centered around common aesthetics, age and socioeconomic statuses, etc. This idea of partitioning and cordoning is actually very effective and logical, and manifests itself pretty reliably, even outside of Japan like America where style is mostly confused and not identifiable. It's to the point where we can consider these boxes to be 'zoku' (families/tribes) and you can be part of a certain magazine's 'zoku' - like Free and Easy-zoku, etc.
Counter-clockwise from top left:
The box that includes Lightning, Free and Easy is 'Ame-oya-kei' = American oyaji look = Americana for old guys. Denim, heritage, repro. Superdenim.
below that in blue-grey with Samurai, Cool Trans, Street Jack = 'Street-kei' = streetwear. From Dunks to Kiks Tyo, used to include Visvim but it migrated a bit.
green box = 'Kireii-kei' = pretty boy stuff. Not necessarily gay, but not masculine, more cute. This is probably more suited to very young guys, high school age. Not really relevant to most discussion within the English-language fashion internet world.
purple center box = 'Onii-kei' = 'Big brother style' - Shibuya gal-o kei (the male counterpart to the Shibuya gyaru) - a sub-demographic of the Shibuya-kei (popular from about 1993 to 1996) style that many my identify with the tanned 'kogal' look - this is the male counterpart to them, and big brother in a fantasy sense that the guys are older than the girls (who were thought to be young) - this is 109 and Men's 109, the hairstyles and the clothes - within this realm also exists the Host (bar) look, male prostitution or pimping/scouting type subcultures that have been around the gyaru/gyaru-oh forever, the whole onii-kei look is generally marginalized as 'cheap' because well, the clothes are cheap (in relation to other 'serious' fashion lifestyles), and the lifestyle has some connotations of the sex industry, driven by the idea of turning to the sex industry rather than taking up a normal job, alternative lifestyles from 1990's Japan, yada yada. This is mostly in the past and not a relevant aesthetic in Japan, and not what it is in Shibuya nowadays like it used to be 15-20 years ago.
Pink box - Salon-kei = Hair salon stylist magazines. Not really relevant to the English language internet again, because nobody really cares about hair! haha. Anyway, these are fashion magazines, and not exclusively about hair, but they are focused around the idea that Ura-Harajuku/Aoyama/Omotesando hair stylists are creative/stylish types and therefore the focus of these magazines is to show off their own culture, the guys with cool hair and clothes and stylist's waist bags, etc. Naturally, not everybody in Japan lives near Harajuku and so it's a moveable piece of Japanese youth culture for the rest.
Grey box- 'Men's Non-kei' = Men's Non-no, ie young, mid-priced fashion. Occasionally featuring fast fashion, some elements of Mode, but stylized in a Japanese young menswear style. Obviously a huge category worthy of it's own box, and by far and large, the most important for this particular age group.
Taupe box - 'Mode-kei' - this is mode, high fashion. Enough said.
The dusty rose colored box, top right - 'Ita-oya-kei' = Italian oyaji kei = Italian old guy style. Men's Ex. Menswear. Styleforum's MC.
The N/W/S/E compass points on the edges of this matrix are qualities:
North = unchiku - knowledge - for the data/trivia obsessed
West = for the hobby of 'clothes' - i.e. to define 'Fashion, vs Style'
South = for aesthetic and stylistic interests - i.e. define 'Style, vs Fashion'
East = for 'Lifestyle'
Naturally, the intermediary areas are a mix, so Men's Ex - styleforum MC - naturally, it lies between the area between 'clothes' and 'trivia'
So interesting points to focus on here, just from the descriptions -
-you notice that Superfuture and Styleforum encompass many of these aesthetics, but at the same time, superfuture has 'superdenim' that is strictly Ameoya-kei, and styleforum has it's own counterpart in 'Itaoya-kei' with the MC forum. Both are strong, and completely different.
- 'Onii-kei' - which many fromthe outside might view as 'dress up' or costume-y, or based on fantasy and imagination - that box skews towards the unlikely direction (though not colliding) where Amekaji and Streetwear are floating, because you have to realize that Amekaji and Streetwear in Japan are also dress-up and costume-y in a similar sense. They are niche looks, subcultures ranging from hobbyists (Americana) to almost full-on lifestyle prescriptions (Onii-kei) - and naturally, you can see where Streetwear falls between that, as Streetwear tends to prescribe a certain set of interests on it's own (perhaps skating and certain kinds of music), but is more livable within normal society than the Shibuya-kei lifestyles.
I've added and boxed in where I think Styleforum, Superfuture, TOJ, and Uncontrol exist on the matrix. The groupings of magazines and 'kei's are fairly accurate, whereas the size of the boxes are not intended to represent anything... and therefore the representation of overlap is not intended to show anything proportional, just the fact, mainly.
Superfuture and Styleforum, as non-Japanese sites operated in the English language, they avoid Onii-kei, and I've shown that in the matrix as well by cookie-cutting them out of the main lasso'd areas.
Anyway, tons of info on this graph, have a look at it and see where you are.

Bump!

So, a few questions for our distinguished (and not so distinguished) members.

Where is styleforum standing now and what part of the graph is trending? Do you think the curtains (blog posts) match the drape (meat of the forum, i.e. the taste of SWD and MC members)?
Is sufu out of its total slump into irrelevence? I need to check it out again.
What are your curent leanings/style changes?
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