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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1412

post #21166 of 42040
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

It's a fantastic design.  There's two reasons it looks like shit on a lot of people that pick one up:
  1. It's cut with a ten inch drop, which not a lot of people can pull off.  Most of the guys that I've seen post bad fits with one had a slight beer gut.
  2. It looks better a little oversized up top, and again, most of the shitty fit pics went super slim fit in the chest/shoulders.  

You don't have to be super skinny to wear it well, but it is still pretty body fascist in terms of the cut.

somewhat agree/disagree with this, here's my take on that jacket:

1) there's basically two versions in my mind - the original cut, with the older Italian hardware that we'll call 'a', and then the updated cut with the YKK stuff which we'll call 'b'. There is a noticeable difference between the two patterns I feel. The changeover happened at Spring 2007, I believe.
2) I don't have a 'b' version so my experience is limited to 'a' - 'a' is cut very boxy and does not have a severe drop. It's probably around 4-5" or so in the smaller sizes and maybe 7" if a larger size, I'm guesstimating there but bear with me.
The sleeves are wide, probably 8 or 9" across the bicep. That is for a size 46 that only measures something like 20.5" down the front. If you've ever ordered a TOJ jacket, you'd never come close to those kinds of proportions, they'd look horrible.

The only reason that the MMM can even pull off these proportions is that the front hardware is all chunky and very prominent. As you can see, 'b' went to more subtle hardware and the proportions were adjusted quite a bit.

'a' is meant to be worn in a classical way, and doesn't necessarily work in terms of how people expect a leather jacket to fit in 2012. Yes, a lot of fits of this jacket suck, and it's because people pick it up from the early 2000's but want it to fit like it were a successive piece in their line of Dior Homme>Rick Owens>Julius>etc tight-fitting things, and they size the jacket way too precisely. Look at the numbers again, and you will see that it's not meant to fit that way. I wear mine dropping off the shoulder, the sleeves are huge - but the lengths look right on me, and the leather crinkles up and takes up the slack anyway. It's a leather jacket, not a suit jacket.

'b' in my mind is just a leather jacket in contemporary terms. The design is there, but not done as well as 'a' and the fit has become genericized to cater to the above expectations, and that's why you hardly ever see 'b' looking that good. It's just not really the same jacket as 'a'

You don't have to be skinny to wear 'a' or 'b' - that isn't really the point, so much. That is just a point in general - skinny people pull off more dramatic appearances with regards to clothing.
post #21167 of 42040
Thread Starter 
regarding the suggestions, keep them coming (and inspired). Some are viable, some not so viable, but they're worth listening to. In the realm of making things, there are things that look easy but are hard to do, and the opposite as well - things seemingly difficult yet easy to do in actuality.
post #21168 of 42040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Milano View Post

Would love the return of classics. As for something different, definitely leather bags with mixed materials in a classic design (something in the details to set it apart).

i have a long list of stuff i want if the classic designs come back. brown goat bomber, black goat 4-zip, etc.... too many jawnz not enough $$

drew, any suggestions made thus far that would be most likely to come to fruition (or, conversely, definitely no-goes)?
post #21169 of 42040
Thread Starter 
I would say the 'tech' stuff is probably a no-go. Not much carryover there for me, iI'd have to take it mostly from scratch and requires large resources as far as I know. That last part is the antithesis to what i like to do. There are diminishing returns in life when you start adding complications and expect some sort of concurrent result - what you end up with never corresponds with the effort put in when you get deep in that hole. I prefer efficiency.
post #21170 of 42040

That's interesting.  I have the denim version in a size 40, so it's possible that my experience with it falls in neither category.  The zips are unlabeled and pretty chunky, which rules out YKK, but I think it was released in like 2010 or so. 

 

You've also got to remember that the OG version was designed in like 1999, when people had very different expectations for fit.

post #21171 of 42040
Gahh.. may need to buy another ma-1. Dad keeps stealing my jacket and he's bordering 70 shog[1].gif
post #21172 of 42040
I completely forgot to mention button closure varsities, as well as indigo and overdyed black denim.

And Drew I have question about the T1, is there any particular reason for the smaller buttons behind the regular ones?
post #21173 of 42040

I'd be interested in, not so much a tech fabric, but a waterproof slicker type of jacket.  Gotta stay dry sometimes.  And +1 on the black suede MA-1

 

hmm, would suede ma-1 which reverses to to a varsity be possible?

post #21174 of 42040
Would like to see TOJ channel its understanding of 'mode' with new shirt offerings to pair with the pants. I remember you mentioning that you had ideas for a biz-caz collection, so I guess I'm just throwing my support for that. I'd really like to see stuff with rich, deep colors and textures - like a really deep midnight blue done with black horn buttons and maybe some grosgrain thrown in somewhere. Patterned silk scarves would be cool too - maybe using a TOJ monogram print with some rich hermes-esque coloring.

I'd drop some loopwheeler money (or more, depending on materials) on a black TOJ luxe hoodie as well - maybe something made of pima cotton, cashmere, or merino wool.(
Edited by omgcookielol - 7/7/12 at 9:29pm
post #21175 of 42040
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

That's interesting.  I have the denim version in a size 40, so it's possible that my experience with it falls in neither category.  The zips are unlabeled and pretty chunky, which rules out YKK, but I think it was released in like 2010 or so. 

You've also got to remember that the OG version was designed in like 1999, when people had very different expectations for fit.

yours is type 'b' - they are YKK zips but not marked on the pull, however they are marked YKK on the back of the slider. Pattern would be the same as the leather version, and type 'b' is indeed very tapered through the midsection.
post #21176 of 42040
Shearling jacket that is under $1000 with riri zipper and a collar that is a bitch to mold.
post #21177 of 42040
I would insta-kop a TOJ take on the 5-zip pattern. That would be the perfect supplement to my MDR.
post #21178 of 42040
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgcookielol View Post

Would like to see TOJ channel its understanding of 'mode' with new shirt offerings to pair with the pants. I remember you mentioning that you had ideas for a biz-caz collection, so I guess I'm just throwing my support for that. I'd really like to see stuff with rich, deep colors and textures - like a really deep midnight blue done with black horn buttons and maybe some grosgrain thrown in somewhere. Patterned silk scarves would be coole20too - maybe using a TOJ monogram print with some rich hermes-esque coloring. (

+1, along with a kick ass MA-1 and the return of button closure varsities like someone mentioned earlier.

Edit: Bows, where dat trouser fit pic.
post #21179 of 42040
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceoceo View Post

Shearling jacket that is under $1000 with riri zipper and a collar that is a bitch to mold.

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post #21180 of 42040
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Milano View Post

Would love the return of classics. As for something different, definitely leather bags with mixed materials in a classic design (something in the details to set it apart). A toj herringbone trouser? Herringbone shirt? herringbone anything... 
 

11_hbntu.jpg

Mcnairy x BBC bee line made something close to what I was hoping to come up with in a herringbone varsity but then they went and added these over the top gold sleeves...whiskey or navy leather sleeves would be an instant classic in my mind

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