or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › The new official TOJ thread, 2011
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1316

post #19726 of 41419
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fungz0r View Post

with the japan pricing, does that mean jackets will be more than $1k, since I think that is the pricing in Japan

I don't think they'll go to $1000 unless they have a good reason to, in other words, if I upgrade the material content then the price might have to go up. They will be different designs over time, but will still be made in the same way, just made in batches so that production can run faster and with more perfection. Our material cost continues to rise and has risen 40% or so since I started TOJ and working with the suppliers, and the prices have had to rise a bit, but we haven't raised prices in awhile and the internal price raises keep eating away at our safety margin. I am worried about continual material price increases but I can worry about that later. That's just part of living in the world.
If our production runs clear, the store is stocked, and Dan seems to have free time in the future and we sewing table space, we may entertain the idea of MTM'ing for an added surcharge and the conditions that a) the person actually really needs it and doing this much work for one jacket will be worth it, b) that person understands how much time it takes to make a jacket from scratch and can accept this fact, and c) back to point a, it's not some nitpicky person who is asking for .5" off somewhere, rather it's somebody like Islander who is much taller than most of you guys and genuinely needs a unique size, so it won't be an option on the table for most. The .5" people will simply be told no. We just can't expend time hacking away at the 'no' questions like we have been up until now. I feel that there was so much productivity and potential lost in that noise. We have talked about it at length.

Overall though, I still want to have a competitive price on the leathers and if I can, I will end up pushing a lot of them locally to my Japanese clientele. The market here has a lot of leathers but many are overdesigned, most don't have the kind of leather I use, not even close; the overall effect I see is that I could have the next generation of TOJ's on the rack and they'll not be stepping on the toes of local Japanese brands, rather the immediate hand feel and overall look will be something that really speaks subtly and more to the style of foreign brands. That makes sense, as I don't particularly have a taste for the wilder Japanese designs of leather jackets. I feel they age too quickly. As I said I hope to bring more women's models into the line and I suspect they will fly in Japan, nobody pays that much attention to the quality of women's leather jackets but they do price them up high, so I can hit hard with those just as I've been doing with men's leathers for awhile now.

The items of clothing that will be priced in line with Japanese clothes are the ones that will be made in Japan, alongside aforementioned clothes. Naturally, the price will vary from where we were at with Korean production, and I feel if they're more expensive, they're more expensive for a reason. The materials are very nice here as I said, and the production quality is high. Lots of machinery and stuff to allow for complex creations, and the real strength is that I will be working with Japanese production that has research in particular styles of clothing, like flight jackets or denim jeans, or oxford shirts. That kind of knowledge produces better clothing.
Anyway, don't be alarmed - I'm not talking Visvim prices, I am talking like Japanese boutique house brand pricing like Beams house label, which is very fair on stuff. They have better economies of scale, but I have little overhead, so we might balance out there. Check out zozotown to get an idea of what stuff costs in Japan. I think there's some really good values that will be more than worth their asking price. If I can get my Toyo Enterprises deal to work out, my flight jackets and military-inspired coat ideas that I've kind of experimented on previously would become very serious and deep, just insane quality and spec. Expect the same with all the other respective pieces. The bottom line, all of these changes - they're strictly for improvement and the pursuit of perfection. If I wasn't seeking the next level, I'd already have quit.
post #19727 of 41419
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Fellow Linguist View Post

Hey Drew, will the TOJ store / webstore stock brands other than TOJ? Kinda interested to see what you would pick.

Probably not, unless they're on a independent basis similar to mine. I don't identify with most other clothes on the market because as I've gone to length on here, my clothes are designed from the inside out, for quality and for what I hope is a lasting garment. That sometimes goes by the wayside if people pick strange combos I'm against, but the intent is deliver a quality item that isn't subject to planned obsolescence. In that way, I'm kind of like the heritage brands, but I obviously don't identify with them either, because they bank on name and also often ignore modern fits and go for a rustic appeal, whereas I feel very strongly about fit and trying to create a modern look.

If some of my friends were to come up with their own clothing or creations, I would consider bringing them into the store if they fit the attitude. Naturally, I am supportive of coming up independently and using pure work and innate talent to replace bought skills, so maybe a theme of that could be built into the store.
post #19728 of 41419
Love reading Drews' posts. Makes me really excited for the future of toj.
post #19729 of 41419
so are yous still keeping the TOJ name or what?

cant wait to see furniture too smile.gif
post #19730 of 41419
Ah okay thanks Drew, that clarifies it a lot, I thought everything was going to be Japan priced, but from what I gather, the pricing will depend on location of production and since the leathers will still be made in Korea, the pricing should still be relatively the same.
post #19731 of 41419
Thread Starter 
yeah, maybe some variation of it at least. Furniture might be one-off for the store only. redface.gif I have an LC2 I want to put in the showroom but I think it will be too hard and not rewarding a design to recover in TOJ leather. I may look at getting another seating arrangement if it looks possible to re-cover in our leather.
post #19732 of 41419
cool, looking forward to some pics of the showroom!
post #19733 of 41419
It might be too late to change, but how much length do folks add on the bomber sleeves relative to the arm length from the body measurements? Obviously depends on how much stacking one wants, but does 3/4 inch sound okay?
post #19734 of 41419
Thread Starter 
you can add an inch or even an inch and a half for that.
post #19735 of 41419
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

If our production runs clear, the store is stocked, and Dan seems to have free time in the future and we sewing table space, we may entertain the idea of MTM'ing for an added surcharge and the conditions that a) the person actually really needs it and doing this much work for one jacket will be worth it, b) that person understands how much time it takes to make a jacket from scratch and can accept this fact, and c) back to point a, it's not some nitpicky person who is asking for .5" off somewhere, rather it's somebody like Islander who is much taller than most of you guys and genuinely needs a unique size, so it won't be an option on the table for most. The .5" people will simply be told no. We just can't expend time hacking away at the 'no' questions like we have been up until now. I feel that there was so much productivity and potential lost in that noise. We have talked about it at length.
.

As a shorty who will probably want another jacket in the future, this is great news.
post #19736 of 41419
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

you can add an inch or even an inch and a half for that.

Thanks Drew. I actually only asked for a quarter inch extra originally, hopefully it is not too late...
post #19737 of 41419
Ordered my first leather last night. Black lamb collared moto with silver zippers. Hoping I got my measurements alright.... hard to keep from second guessing things.
post #19738 of 41419
heeeelll yeah, just go the ball rolling on my 2010 rider.
post #19739 of 41419
regarding the quilted leather rider

would it look bad on people with relatively narrow shoulders? Also would a 6'1" guy with 43/44 chest be too "big" to wear them (referring to drew's post a few days back)?
post #19740 of 41419
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

................
If our production runs clear, the store is stocked, and Dan seems to have free time in the future and we sewing table space, we may entertain the idea of MTM'ing for an added surcharge and the conditions that a) the person actually really needs it and doing this much work for one jacket will be worth it, b) that person understands how much time it takes to make a jacket from scratch and can accept this fact, and c) back to point a, it's not some nitpicky person who is asking for .5" off somewhere, rather it's somebody like Islander who is much taller than most of you guys and genuinely needs a unique size, so it won't be an option on the table for most. The .5" people will simply be told no. We just can't expend time hacking away at the 'no' questions like we have been up until now. I feel that there was so much productivity and potential lost in that noise.......... .

I have to ask the stupid questions - You define MTMing as what you're doing now for every order, i.e. making jackets crafted to individual sizes.

After the deadline passes, the jackets that you do decide to sell will, by and large, be sold in 'standard sizes' . So in the new world, I would buy a particular size - say 52 or 54 and hope it fits, or have it tailored somewhere else to my specs?

BTW, the TOJ0 would be one hell of a temptation. it's the one TOJ product I regret not being around to purchase.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › The new official TOJ thread, 2011