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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1272

post #19066 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emixam View Post

what is the material used for the removable fur collar of the A2 bomber ?

Going on the fur collar, if you get a brown goat jacket do still get the removable shearling ?
post #19067 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

No raglan sleeves, would fuck it up.
Need that strong shoulder.
Black suede epaulets.

Gonna disagree with this. I'm pretty sure raglan sleeves are a part of the original/most popular design, so it wouldn't fuck up the jacket. Burberry's kept the raglans for most of their trenches (I think) and they still tend to be pretty popular/good looking.

Making the epaulets/shoulder straps suede just for the heck of it is kind of weird to me as well. Would prefer a thick rigid leather that keeps a sharp shape and has a nice deep color.
post #19068 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgcookielol View Post

Gonna disagree with this. I'm pretty sure raglan sleeves are a part of the original/most popular design, so it wouldn't fuck up the jacket. Burberry's kept the raglans for most of their trenches (I think) and they still tend to be pretty popular/good looking.
Making the epaulets/shoulder straps suede just for the heck of it is kind of weird to me as well. Would prefer a thick rigid leather that keeps a sharp shape and has a nice deep color.

That's why I don't really like the burberry ones.

It makes it too casual, too soft. Trenches should be sharp and, well, military IMO.
Yeah actually suede epaulets is gimicky.
I'd probably prefer just normal cotton epaulets or a grosgrain maybe.

This is all speculation, it'd be interesting to see what Drew's actually thinking.
post #19069 of 43209
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emixam View Post

what is the material used for the removable fur collar of the A2 bomber ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TACO_FLAVORED_KISSES View Post

Going on the fur collar, if you get a brown goat jacket do still get the removable shearling ?

It's shorn-pile shearling. You do get it if you get the brown goat, though the color of the shearling will be lighter in comparison to the leather; it will be a good look though. Just not the same on same look as with the brown lamb.
post #19070 of 43209
Thread Starter 
As for the trench, I like raglan sleeves myself; trench coats are either one way or the other - they fit or they fit over something and you can't make one do the other, tbh. Just no use in trying to get a modern fitted trench over a suit, and a modern fitted outfit calls for a suitably fitted trench.... on the other hand, I am a bit weary of making a set-in sleeve trench, not for deeper historical dialogue but because a slim-fit set-in sleeve trench brings to mind middling and forgettable Dior Homme and other ideas in that vein, just mercilessly overdone copies of that idea, yesstyle, et al. That is not to say that the actual build and fabric will be economic in volume, the pattern wouldn't necessarily be like that, I do steer clear of the recent past, that's all.
I do agree that suede epaulets would overdo it, also that's not a good placement for suede - people's first idea for a trench coat is to be worn in the rain; why put suede on the part that bears the most rain contact? Textile mix is fun, but should be done with logic and I prefer to do it when the intent is clever.
post #19071 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSafternoon View Post

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Shoes View Post

Drew, I want a QDR. What color/ leather are you digging? Also, I love the lamb but I think I want something more durable...would calf allow me to beat it up a bit more (eg jumping in bushes whilst intoxicated) or do I need to step up to horse for that kind of armor (not that QDR is available in horse....in fact, is calf even a good idea for QDR?). Help me Obi-won Keith-obi.

 

could be wrong, but I was under the impression the QDR was lamb only as the calf doesn't work well with the intricate quilt details.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BEAR JEW View Post

Long overdue pics of quilted DR in dark royal blue calf:

qmdr01.jpg

qmdr02.jpg

qmdr03.jpg

qmdr04.jpg

qmdr05.jpg

qmdr06.jpg

post #19072 of 43209
Would definitely kop some ToJ Goretex or tech pieces, along the lines of WM or Visvim
post #19073 of 43209
Thread Starter 
I don't know if goretex is happening, per se, the cost of that stuff is incredible and also very hard to do because of all the stupid rules that Gore sets up. It's a brand name textile and all they want you to do is pay up and flag the logo, the actual intrinsic qualities have been surpassed long ago. Any JP brand that is not Visvim (expensive to be expensive, nowadays) still has to flog gore-texs for at least 60,000Y if not 80,000Y. That's not a bad price but it translates into a higher dollar price nowadays. I am obviously fairly aware of the dollar to yen exchange, and in keeping with that I will be sticking with what I think is well-done in Japan but also representing good value. That is still a lot of things. Gore tex is not really one of them, that is a US-branded product with more hands in the till than is reasonable.
post #19074 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I don't know if goretex is happening, per se, the cost of that stuff is incredible and also very hard to do because of all the stupid rules that Gore sets up. It's a brand name textile and all they want you to do is pay up and flag the logo, the actual intrinsic qualities have been surpassed long ago. Any JP brand that is not Visvim (expensive to be expensive, nowadays) still has to flog gore-texs for at least 60,000Y if not 80,000Y. That's not a bad price but it translates into a higher dollar price nowadays. I am obviously fairly aware of the dollar to yen exchange, and in keeping with that I will be sticking with what I think is well-done in Japan but also representing good value. That is still a lot of things. Gore tex is not really one of them, that is a US-branded product with more hands in the till than is reasonable.

Totally understandable. Well what about newer, less known but more cutting edge tech fabrics that don't carry the hefty licensing fee? I'm not too familiar with any, but if the material is similar to or better than Gore tex, I'd be all ears!

I think you'd make a fortune if you sold reasonably priced tech goods MIJ. I'd certainly buy at least 1 piece
post #19075 of 43209
Thread Starter 
there's a lot of stuff like that, any textile-producing country usually has their own brands of 2.5-3L laminate.

I don't think I will be doing tech goods though, that's not really my focus and I dislike catering to passing trends that take sufu or styleforum - the quality of the styling discussion on both sites has died off. These tech outer based fits on sufu lately look horrible, Supreme cap/nerd glasses/nylon jacket/buttonup/rolled up jeans/chunky brogues is a look that I hope dies soon, it rarely has the potential to be good, has all the potential to look bad, and it's also expired years ago and wasn't particularly a good look in the first place. Pass.
post #19076 of 43209
Thread Starter 
interesting thing I just came across, Kolon is a huge textile manufacturer in Korea, and part of their vertical integration has them making consumer mountaineering clothes and outdoor gear; apparently they stole some of the para-aramid technology from Dupont's kevlar and put it into action, lol. They also make a 2.5L/3L tech fabric that is like gore-tex. The company page says they are in cahoots with Asahi kasei, et al, which are also scientific research-based textile producers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DuPont_v._Kolon_Industries


I like the technology and the research aspect of this stuff, but isn't wearing a technical waterproof shell with shorts or rolled up jeans the equivalent of putting expensive rims, a huge fartcan exhaust, and an intake on your 120hp Civic?
post #19077 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

interesting thing I just came across, Kolon is a huge textile manufacturer in Korea, and part of their vertical integration has them making consumer mountaineering clothes and outdoor gear; apparently they stole some of the para-aramid technology from Dupont's kevlar and put it into action, lol. They also make a 2.5L/3L tech fabric that is like gore-tex. The company page says they are in cahoots with Asahi kasei, et al, which are also scientific research-based textile producers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DuPont_v._Kolon_Industries
I like the technology and the research aspect of this stuff, but isn't wearing a technical waterproof shell with shorts or rolled up jeans the equivalent of putting expensive rims, a huge fartcan exhaust, and an intake on your 120hp Civic?

I think that particular aesthetic is a bit affected, but you have a certain power as a designer to make a high quality good and dictate to an extent how it is worn through some sort of designer dictum or intended vision. You're a very influential figure in how people wear these pieces, and if you were to make more than just a shell (perhaps tech pants as well?), you could develop an entire aesthetic of your own involving tech fabrics, much like White Mountaineering has done. Just a thought!


Also, combining tech with traditionally non tech goods (think Undercoverism's seam taped wool duffle or their wool tech suits) could be pretty fresh, albeit probably overly complex.
post #19078 of 43209
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by reedobandito View Post

I think that particular aesthetic is a bit affected, but you have a certain power as a designer to make a high quality good and dictate to an extent how it is worn through some sort of designer dictum or intended vision. You're a very influential figure in how people wear these pieces, and if you were to make more than just a shell (perhaps tech pants as well?), you could develop an entire aesthetic of your own involving tech fabrics, much like White Mountaineering has done. Just a thought!
Also, combining tech with traditionally non tech goods (think Undercoverism's seam taped wool duffle or their wool tech suits) could be pretty fresh, albeit probably overly complex.

I agree, I am just griping to gripe. redface.gif I got my own personal likes and dislikes...
post #19079 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I agree, I am just griping to gripe. redface.gif I got my own personal likes and dislikes...

It must be fucking nerve-wracking as well as incredibly exciting to be on the edge of such a big transformation with your brand. It sounds like you're really flirting with the idea of turning ToJ into a more widely known brand whose products represent a wide array of stylistic sets.

I'm excited to see where ToJ is in a year or two!
post #19080 of 43209
Quote:
Originally Posted by kasakka View Post

So I did some Photoshopping. I'm not sure if I got all the colors right but this should make it a bit easier to pick your TOJ. Obviously this doesn't have all those whiskey calf variations, just the current lineup plus some that are sadly no longer available (burgundy FQHH and red lamb).
442
DISCLAIMER: THESE ARE NOT OFFICIAL, ACTUAL COLOR MAY BE DIFFERENT!

What do you guys think: light dove gray or medium gray for a 2010 DR?
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