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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 1187

post #17791 of 41833
CWU-45 in black lamb or black goat?
post #17792 of 41833
Thread Starter 
Correct, but also maybe give me random graphic direction too possibly. I say that because I realize the jobs might be small and diversified, but I like to run slim and efficiently and so I want a multi-talent - who is missing the ability to actually make clothes, which I feel is the opposite problem that many aspiring designers have.
Restaurant analogy - I would be the chef with a small team who knows how to make a wide range of food already with a reputation for high quality, I know what stuff costs and how to put it on a plate to sell it - I am just talking about a thinker who could come in an redecorate the store, bring what is my solid 2 star restaurant into the 3 star realm (or maybe I'm thinking too highly of things, and we can say 1 star to 2 star redface.gif ) and help tick off a list of things I've wanted to do but haven't been able to do so far, either due time/labor constraints or having to find some ingenious solutions, etc.

I think the person I'm looking for can be pretty schizoid, are you familiar with the Asian blood type stereotypes? I am like the type A rhythm section and I make all the beats, but I'm looking for some sort of Type B, a guitarist or something, I guess.
post #17793 of 41833
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakatora View Post

CWU-45 in black lamb or black goat?

lamb. the goat is a little stiffer and I think it'd make a better rider's style jacket. Those bombers are best in soft lamb.
post #17794 of 41833

Goat, I'd love to see a goat CWU-45.

EDIT: Just to play the devil's advocate against Drew, if you did go for the stiffer goat you'd have something unique, nobody's done it with a CWU yet (as far as I'm aware). It could look great, it's a similar wear to the calf without being as clunky.

Some shots of Aeglus' goat if you haven't seen them:

http://27.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ltomxnajAK1qcq3abo1_500.jpg

http://29.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_liuvidqP9d1qcq3abo1_500.jpg

http://26.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lfz3nawwpw1qcq3abo1_500.jpg

At the very least it'd be something interesting.


Edited by IronKnochs - 3/26/12 at 2:41am
post #17795 of 41833
Thread Starter 
Nereis, think of it this way- see how snowman came in and saw the picture from the ground up, said 'this is the look, it's a blazer and then the two items you've made already, and it's going to be a minimalistic outfit like Jil Sander or Prada' - that's a huge overlap with what I can do already; one can surmise by the dicussion in this thread, and the toj-gallery as my portfolio that that much is within my realm.
What I am looking for, you're right - I need a shell, the workings from the outside in; I need someone to say to me 'dude, let's make an Amish quilt themed collection (imagine this is N. Hoolywood S/S2009)' - and then filling in a line of clothes under that premise is not difficult for me.
As I said, I think fashion schools across the globe have tons of dreamers, but the constructors are fewer, I feel.

I don't want that to be taken in a one-note way, or taken to extremes, I am just trying to describe the mental outlook of the personalities I think would work together well, if I were one of them.
post #17796 of 41833
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronKnochs View Post

Goat, I'd love to see a goat CWU-45.


EDIT: Just to play the devil's advocate against Drew, if you did go for the stiffer goat you'd have something unique, nobody's done it with a CWU yet (as far as I'm aware). It could look great, it's a similar wear to the calf without being as clunky.

I recommend lamb. There are tactile and manufacturing concerns that must be taken into account before anything else.
post #17797 of 41833

Fair deuce. I was getting excited there, too. devil.gif

post #17798 of 41833
drew, the way you're talking sounds like you're a planning seasonal collections or something?
post #17799 of 41833
toj will become like wjk and wht and all the other three letter brand names

maybe i will draw some ire for this but if demand is outstripping supply maybe prices are too low on some items? idk
post #17800 of 41833
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad-t View Post

toj will become like wjk and wht and all the other three letter brand names
maybe i will draw some ire for this but if demand is outstripping supply maybe prices are too low on some items? idk

While the libertarian and purely-rational-agents-economist in me goes 'if the demand is so high that supply can't meet it then prices must go up', classical theory doesn't take into account the nature of doing business in the real world.

In the real world, people don't like seeing prices fluctuate too much so prices tend to move by less than the basic commodities do. The human brain inherently 'anchors' a 'fair price' for a set time period and moreover, customers of a firm like TOJ tend (and want to be) repeat customers. Unless there are legitimate costs of doing business that are rising, raising prices drastically will impact on TOJ's goodwill with its customer base.

Now given that a lot of TOJ customers are coming via good word-of-mouth or reputation, that may not be the smartest move to take. If the margins have remained the same and it's still as profitable as ever then it tells me that the supply simply needs to become more productive.

Now that's easier said than done, and especially with so much labour intensive work on these products (good workers don't come cheap nor do they grow on trees). So an option may be to take production completely inhouse. On the other hand, Drew could begin widening his net of acceptable workshops and simply demanding more stringent QC on the products coming out of those lines.

/consultantrambling
post #17801 of 41833
oh.
post #17802 of 41833
TOJ F/W 2013. The Leatherman.

1467038
post #17803 of 41833
^

All leather er'thang?
post #17804 of 41833
Thread Starter 
haha, good story. Leatherman was only 31? =(
post #17805 of 41833
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nereis View Post

While the libertarian and purely-rational-agents-economist in me goes 'if the demand is so high that supply can't meet it then prices must go up', classical theory doesn't take into account the nature of doing business in the real world.
In the real world, people don't like seeing prices fluctuate too much so prices tend to move by less than the basic commodities do. The human brain inherently 'anchors' a 'fair price' for a set time period and moreover, customers of a firm like TOJ tend (and want to be) repeat customers. Unless there are legitimate costs of doing business that are rising, raising prices drastically will impact on TOJ's goodwill with its customer base.
Now given that a lot of TOJ customers are coming via good word-of-mouth or reputation, that may not be the smartest move to take. If the margins have remained the same and it's still as profitable as ever then it tells me that the supply simply needs to become more productive.
Now that's easier said than done, and especially with so much labour intensive work on these products (good workers don't come cheap nor do they grow on trees). So an option may be to take production completely inhouse. On the other hand, Drew could begin widening his net of acceptable workshops and simply demanding more stringent QC on the products coming out of those lines.
/consultantrambling

Pretty good summary - though i feel it it may speak about a business in an earlier phase than mine is now, I guess it could speak in later phases too, but I feel we've rubbed elbows with the scenario much earlier on. This could be like, back where I went from zero to 60 with the original varsity jacket in 3 seconds, and should've repriced once serious demand was established - but did not. Since then, I price at whatever the true cost is and then add in the safety margin, send them out - the goal is not to make every possible penny from each piece, rather it is about selling a few, enough to break free from the developmental cost at least, and hopefully more. We pay an inflated rate since we don't get to employ any scales of economy, and therefore the pricing game begins a little differently.

The real basis for all of this talk is the fact that our lead times get longer with longer queues at times - and well, I just take that to be the name of the game and unfortunately, that's the way it has to be for the customer too. There are off the peg jackets out there you can buy instantly (and wait a week or two to ship) and then there's mine. I'd be equally impressed if I could turn out MTM leather jackets from scratch as fast as people want them, but it's pretty much a one a day thing because they're all diffferent sizes, styles, and colors/materials - so they just can't be worked up on the same bench at the same time. We could duplicate the work setup to have more complete manufacturing stations (cutter, sewer) but if I employ people I have to make sure I really employ them with a full load of work, and not sprinkle orders on them, on-call - and we have a lot for one team, not enough for two teams, really.
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