The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 102

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

TOJ will morph a bit into something different as a project of mine later on; but in the near future I've decided to do an 'Eat, Swag, Love' tour that will bring more swag juice to my projects to come.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

by more swag juice I mean so fucking swaggy and straight from the centre and yeah I just put that r before the e swag juice central; TOJ is putting the stethoscope to the ground in Tokyo.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

had about 8 fingers high on that Bowmore from the Chateau d'Yquem casks by the time I went off to my corner, and a six pack before that; my flawless typing alone is swag juice. A technological Arnold.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

real talk though, my OCBD pattern is not fucking around, it's the best slim (but not Stanley Van Buren femme torso/hip problem slim) around. It's an in-house pattern from scratch that skips the plague of being copied stitch for stitch from BoO, and therefore fits the male sex properly. I haven't seen it fail anyone, check the gallery.

Originally Posted by skunkworks

TOJ: Dropping swag like ordinance on the ground

Originally Posted by wj4

Are the shirts available to purchase now? The unofficial site has no shirts under "Available Products".

I'm eager to try one out as sport and dress shirts are what I'm focusing on next.

Originally Posted by modalsaliency

Grain, mostly, and fairly exclusively. It doesn't gloss, or drape, or coddle the touch, or stave off wear, or any of the other things that differentiate one leather from another. But it has a rather unique texture that isn't found in other sources of dead hide.

My experience could be skewed though, if anyone wants to chime in.

Originally Posted by uNiCoRnPriNcEsSx

in comparison to calf, goat is more lightweight and has about the same abrasion resistance as calf. you see this kind of leather more on custom motorcycle jackets. stylistically, goat leather has a more pronounced texture, requiring less of a "break in" period that some people dread. personally though, I think it looks like toad skin.

this is the observation that i got anyway, from comparing the sample swatches i got from langlitz.

but because we don't care about abrasion resistance, it makes sense to just offer calf (durable), lamb (soft) and horse (indestructible) , since that covers the gamut of what most people want anyway.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

deerskin is not worth doing. Pigskin looks 80% the same and costs 1/6th the raw cost, one sheet of deer (and we'd need 3, maybe even more) costs well over a hundred bucks a piece. It's deerskin from France, very expensive. It might end up looking cool but I think it's a waste of money.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

it is, and that is lamb; to be really honest, I prefer lamb for everything. They're obviously not jackets for really riding a bike in, but lamb falls nicely on your right out of the box, you can wear it a little slimmer because it stretches and doesn't crease hard in your elbows or pits like the harder leathers do, and it looks really fucking cool when you have a Bomber in A-2 style but it's cut trimly, see what BoO is doing this season (and what I've done for 2 years now with the Bomber - I<3Bacon wears the very first prototype and wears it well, it may not even come across slimly enough in pics but it definitely is, because it was made for me ) The thick lamb we have (which is all of those colors except the red, which is mid-thickness) is something really nice, not run of the mill stuff. That's why I tend to use it on all sorts of things, like varsity jacket sleeves, coat trimmings, there will be more; it's 'ours' if anything were. Other makers make leathers in Korea here using the same garment leather sources that we do, like Geller, etc, but they don't step up the extra $1-2/square to the nicer lamb that we use, because a larger sized leather jacket with detailing can be 50 squares per jacket. They tend to stay with the thin Italian nappa hides that are more standard and run fairly cheaply, it's genuine leather as opposed to full on aniline dye leather like I prefer to use, which has a transparent, deep finish with several color layers and a full grain, as opposed to the painted-on opaque finish that covers blemished or split-down hides.

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

if you could see my MMM leather in person, this question is not even a question - the jacket looks cool because it's been worn to death for almost 12 years, but it's not high quality. The MMM calf is about one to one with the TOJ stuff on the topside finish though I might be edging the MMM out a bit, it's hard to tell since there isn't an unwrinkled spot on my MMM anywhere (our calf is near flawless in the hide and we pay a huge premium for that) but the MMM is very thin for calf, not even 3oz, more like 2oz (about 0.6-8mm, it's really quite thin), the lining is cheap cotton+viscose (that has gaping holes all over, and I have to stuff the strands of sleeve lining back into the sleeves), all the seams around the zippers and placket are just sewn and then excess edges are cut - when the seams break away from the stitching there's nothing to do about repairing it cleanly that way. The jacket is missing the little flashing details of leather that 'hide' the zips like on my TOJ jackets, etc, and the folded over/sewn seams. The MRS zippers are nice on the MMM, but pound for pound the YKK Japans are about as good functionally - which is why MMM themselves moved to the same YKK zips later on. If you ever look at the Junya X Vanson leathers, you see they use the same exact front zip as we do. It's the same part in a bright finish.