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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 985

post #14761 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post

I would just like to curse all of you skinny people.
D - The Moto is sweet. Prob go for that. What do you mean by 4 zippers vs. 2? Are you talking about the ones on the sleeves? I only see 2 on the lower body.

4 pockets, 2 at the chest, 2 at the bottom.
post #14762 of 42079
Thread Starter 
After having that conversation with jakekrait about selvedge fabrics, I spent the day researching Japanese selvedge available to me and turned up a lot. This is going to be interesting. I love good cottons and the feeling of finding something you've wanted for years is great. I am seeing some possibilities here. Possibly a test run on the TOJ denim too.
post #14763 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

if I had a dayjob right now, I'd want these pants in 5-7 colors and the shirts in 5-7 colors/patterns as well - get nice black shoes, work outfit complete. That's how the pants originally came about actually - I made them a few months before TOJ was born or even conceived, when I had a job and needed work clothes. Was gonna wear them with my Raf and Jil, Bless, some MMM stuff - I was wearing modern biz-caz to work at the time.

are the shirts youre talking about the hidden placket shirts?
post #14764 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

are the shirts youre talking about the hidden placket shirts?

whats so good about hidden placket shirts? do they lighten your nipple colour so they wont be visible if you are wearing white hidden placket shirts?
post #14765 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post

I would just like to curse all of you skinny people.
D - The Moto is sweet. Prob go for that. What do you mean by 4 zippers vs. 2? Are you talking about the ones on the sleeves? I only see 2 on the lower body.


How big are you, exactly, if you don't mind my asking?

post #14766 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotClever View Post



How big are you, exactly, if you don't mind my asking?

foo.gif
post #14767 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Been studying down garment construction, and most of what I said before is the basis I've found, but on the construction level, I'm pretty amazed, actually. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Good 'fashion' down pieces (i.e. not a cheap tubular North Face or Uniqlo with a bunch of down shot into the hollows, the kind of cheap down jackets that constantly leak little feathers) are quite labor intensive from a sewing standpoint, at least a couple steps I'd have not thought of, I guess.
To put down in from what I saw (and how I'd want it to be done) - you have make a bunch of muslin bags, or a light fabric with a tight enough weave to trap the down inside, and you fill those independently with down on the 'stuffer' machine (looks like a huge industrial thing with a nozzle) that you just put the bags on like balloons and mete out the fill weight. The down bags are shaped specifically to the pattern and design, so they look like kidney beans or 'L's or what have you, those are random and individual.
So once these random down bags of all shapes and sizes are filled and sealed at the end, you take them and sew them into the shell, maybe flattening out the bags evenly and then quilting over them at the same time, so that the fill gets distributed to each channel and stays put and lofty. Then you sew in the lining like any other. It's like any jacket we make already, but has those fill pads sewn inside. It'd take a few more steps of design planning and workflow plans (I normally don't need to dabble too hard in workflow ideas, considering our scale) to make a successful down piece the way I'd want it.
I think I could circumvent the need for a fill machine if I handmade the fill bags, meted out the fill on my digital scale, then sent the finished fill bags to a workshop of my choice to be sewn to the panels. I'd have to find a supplier willing to sell me down in big 100L trash bags at only a few bags at a time, because I have a small work room that would get out of hand and piss off Mrs TOJ if there were any more than that at one time. redface.gif So, I guess the outlook for down is better, but again, would take some real thought to engineer, possibly a lot of trials and stuff. I just don't like doing things the easy way if I find out about the next level.

Some pretty interesting stuff here, thanks. I get what you're saying about once you find out about the next-level process, you can't imagine doing it a more standard way.

I've never even heard of that individual bladder way, and not even this $3500 Cuchinelli down jacket I checked out a few years ago, that had every conceivable detail imaginable had that. rotflmao.gif

Although it did have that down where the inner shaft part is removed, so there is no firm part to it at all, and supposedly that eliminates or at least reduces feathers popping out since there is nothing to poke through. It made it even lighter weight too while still being so warm because all of the weight is in that middle shaft. I only mention this coat because I've looked at a lot of down products and nothing comes close to that thing. Gamme Bleu, etc can't touch it.

Could that type of down be something to look into?

Just throwing ideas out there because the only thing I want to see more than ToJ luggage is some kind of mixed material down vest or coat icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #14768 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by skitlets View Post

4 pockets, 2 at the chest, 2 at the bottom.

Ah, I see it now. I had to dig into the gallery as the pic on the Moto page is of the 2 zipper variety.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotClever View Post



How big are you, exactly, if you don't mind my asking?

Only 6' but I've got a 12 drop and slightly shorter arms than normal for my size. So all XL or XXL items that fit me up top are HUGE in the waist and the sleeves end up being an inch or two long. That's why I need custom.
post #14769 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Sadly, this guy has gone off to do his mandatory army service

rotflmao.gif 9 months left for me

Trousers with shorter inseam for small guyz??
post #14770 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post


Ah, I see it now. I had to dig into the gallery as the pic on the Moto page is of the 2 zipper variety.
Only 6' but I've got a 12 drop and slightly shorter arms than normal for my size. So all XL or XXL items that fit me up top are HUGE in the waist and the sleeves end up being an inch or two long. That's why I need custom.


bro, can i get a spot?

post #14771 of 42079
Thread Starter 
i can barely lift the bar. But that's alright, cuz swag has no strength requirements
post #14772 of 42079

swag doesn't lift a finger

post #14773 of 42079
I know its a deadhorse-a.gif but I just realized that Woodyear called himself black from Drew's sig. Made my day
post #14774 of 42079
Quote:
Originally Posted by pronxs View Post

whats so good about hidden placket shirts? do they lighten your nipple colour so they wont be visible if you are wearing white hidden placket shirts?

sadly, they do not. but they do hide all those pesky buttons. and if you have a third nipple in the middle of your chest i am sure it will be hidden as well teacha.gif
post #14775 of 42079
I need to get my hands on a TOJ leather soon icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif Is TOJ's tall people friendly? Say 6'2"-6'3" range? Also, I don't have my measurements yet, but I have to say I'm not pencil thin nor am I obese. I am more on the lean side around my waist. However, my chest and back may be an issue (when I reach for things or bend over, jackets tend to pull and get tight on me facepalm.gif).
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