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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 831

post #12451 of 42020
swag cuffs = foldable surgeon cuffs on select models. not just how it's styled. pretty sure i didn't see any of that on the BS ebay page. teacha.gif

the club thing is a real deal. buy enough toj, and you start getting discounts. but i don't think you'll ever reach that lvl, juss sayin'

and if you have to justify your purchases, it just means you need to lvl up in life, pal. to the point where u start saying, "$2000? so what, i like it." $700-800 isn't even that bad for a jacket like this. yes, we have a couple of fanboys here, but toj is like AAPL to them. if you don't think it's a good deal, vote with your dollar and carry on.
post #12452 of 42020
Thread Starter 
in reality you ate it's body long before it's skin got turned into luscious black leather, so no hard feelings man lol8[1].gif The guys who pm me about "chinchilla availability" though, I do get ideas... uhoh.gif
post #12453 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

in reality you ate it's body long before it's skin got turned into luscious black leather, so no hard feelings man lol8[1].gif The guys who pm me about "chinchilla availability" though, I do get ideas... uhoh.gif

rfx?
post #12454 of 42020
I'm surprised there was no discussion about that parka post a few pages back.

I was actually thinking about something similar last night in bed (0)

Drew was talking about how TOJ has its roots in leather and wool, and I was wondering if maybe a cool project would be a leather and wool down vest of some kind. Not necessarily western style, but I can see some really good combos coming out of the materials he already sources.
post #12455 of 42020
Thread Starter 
^^ actually, no, not RFX or some exotic baller - The reality is that people pm and email all the time about strange things, think there's a good chance that I have a slaughter zoo of exotic animals, and expect that not only would they be the same price, but cost less, even - the reasoning being that the animals are smaller or something. The logic behind that, I don't know.

I will say, I actually like animals, and really only want to make jackets from animals that are caught and used for mainstream purposes. I think people are getting the wrong idea, since 90% of this thread tends to be fiction. We focus on lamb and calfskin, and wool.
post #12456 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

We don't run a zipper shop as if we were baking up macaron flavors here, dudes. The anodized blacks give way to rainbow-y nickel, fwiw.

something totally off topic here, but what's your take on IDEAL zippers? My gf has a lamb DR from Topshop(when they first produced leather jackets made of real lamb leather) that has some pretty heavy duty IDEAL zippers. The zippers pulls are really chunky and sturdy imo, and it has one of the thickest zipper I ever felt so far. Much heavier than any other zippers from any other leather jackets I own. Went back to Topshop a couple of weeks ago, and there was the same DR again(though the leather seems to have gotten more plasticky), and they switched the new run of zippers to some cheap, plasticky feeling YKK zippers.

So, I just want to get your views on the different brands of zippers available in the market.
post #12457 of 42020
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tween_spirit View Post

I'm surprised there was no discussion about that parka post a few pages back.
I was actually thinking about something similar last night in bed (0)
Drew was talking about how TOJ has its roots in leather and wool, and I was wondering if maybe a cool project would be a leather and wool down vest of some kind. Not necessarily western style, but I can see some really good combos coming out of the materials he already sources.

I am going to explore different material combinations coming up, but down is prohibitively expensive unless you have proper machinery to pack the hollowfill, run standard sizing so that said fill can be meted out, and then you have to literally buy a truck full - a metric ton or something. It's obviously not expensive, since you see tons of cheap down products all the time, but at the same time they have to make thousands of copies, and we don't just use the cheap stuff just because it's the cheap stuff - I choose the material viability based on the quality of it first, and then availability comes second and decides whether it can be used or not.
post #12458 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I am going to explore different material combinations coming up, but down is prohibitively expensive unless you have proper machinery to pack the hollowfill, run standard sizing so that said fill can be meted out, and then you have to literally buy a truck full - a metric ton or something. It's obviously not expensive, since you see tons of cheap down products all the time, but at the same time they have to make thousands of copies, and we don't just use the cheap stuff just because it's the cheap stuff - I choose the material viability based on the quality of it first, and then availability comes second and decides whether it can be used or not.

Makes sense to me. Would you consider a poly-fill for something that is puffy? I guess I can just keep my mouth shut since you said you're going to explore different material combinations coming up, but I figured it was some food for though.
post #12459 of 42020
I hope the MA-1 comes back for SS. With wool, maybe Drew's take on the M65 jacket?
post #12460 of 42020
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurhur View Post

something totally off topic here, but what's your take on IDEAL zippers? My gf has a lamb DR from Topshop(when they first produced leather jackets made of real lamb leather) that has some pretty heavy duty IDEAL zippers. The zippers pulls are really chunky and sturdy imo, and it has one of the thickest zipper I ever felt so far. Much heavier than any other zippers from any other leather jackets I own. Went back to Topshop a couple of weeks ago, and there was the same DR again(though the leather seems to have gotten more plasticky), and they switched the new run of zippers to some cheap, plasticky feeling YKK zippers.
So, I just want to get your views on the different brands of zippers available in the market.

IDEAL are very nice, actually. They're in the same league as YKK, Riri, Lampo, MRS, just different companies. Prices are all relatively the same, just depends on where you are and what you can get through trade companies. They all make metal or aluminum zippers that are heavy duty and slide nicely, and work reliably. I have had some reliability problems with RY zippers, so I leave them out of that, but fundamentally they should be in there too I guess, millions of zippers out there so it's probably not fair to count out a couple lemons.
Metal and plastic zippers are apples and oranges so they don't need to be compared here.

There is an honest difference between all of those makers, and I might be the only to have to gotten to the point of actually thinking about this - Riri is way overbeasted on, Swiss manufacture, gothninja gunmetal colors, it comes on your favorite gothninja brands, and so on- but the material content of Riri is slightly different - the teeth are very narrow (not the gauge of the two teeth put together width-wise, I'm talking each individual tooth in 'height') and so the look is lean, together they look like dashes. They teeth are hand polished (though they're not the only ones to do this, at all) yet they don't really sparkle or bling too much - it's because they come on muted cotton tape and the teeth are narrow, so they look 'stitched' - I admit, it looks cool. It's so very minute though, nobody really notices this, nor does it affect how it feels in your hand or the pull function. IDEAL makes a slightly narrow toothed zipper as well.
YKK metal and Excella metal, which we use - the former is built like all the other brands listed above, the Excella has very wide pyramidal teeth that are unique in their own right, and have a different look - it looks like a solid strip of metal for a zipper. It's cool but heavy looking, and the opposite of what Riri metal series looks like.

Anyway, these differences are like, microscopic minute. One guy is here asking what the difference between a DRKSHDW jacket, no i mean black scissors, no i mean Burberry, and TOJ is, and I'm here explaining the geometric makeup of popular metal heavy duty zippers. lol8[1].gif I'm not sure if I should take a break for the night or keep going. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #12461 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I am going to explore different material combinations coming up, but down is prohibitively expensive unless you have proper machinery to pack the hollowfill, run standard sizing so that said fill can be meted out, and then you have to literally buy a truck full - a metric ton or something. It's obviously not expensive, since you see tons of cheap down products all the time, but at the same time they have to make thousands of copies, and we don't just use the cheap stuff just because it's the cheap stuff - I choose the material viability based on the quality of it first, and then availability comes second and decides whether it can be used or not.

Then I can understand, I thought you missed the post.


edit: Great Greenland also does polar foxes and polar bears. Can I have a polar bear shearling bomber 5 zip?
edit2: I have about 410 USD to spend.
Edited by buran - 11/30/11 at 10:48am
post #12462 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

Anyway, these differences are like, microscopic minute. One guy is here asking what the difference between a DRKSHDW jacket, no i mean black scissors, no i mean Burberry, and TOJ is, and I'm here explaining the geometric makeup of popular metal heavy duty zippers. lol8[1].gif I'm not sure if I should take a break for the night or keep going. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Pour yourself some scotch for and keep going, I know I'm not alone in thinking that all of this stuff is really interesting when it starts to flow.
post #12463 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by tween_spirit View Post

Pour yourself some scotch for and keep going, I know I'm not alone in thinking that all of this stuff is really interesting when it starts to flow.

True dat. By far the most interesting thread on SF. Especially when the juicy cost of materials and labor details start to trickle in...

...it's no wonder this is thread has over a million hits, and is probably the most popular non-sticky thread... thumbs-up.gif
post #12464 of 42020
Thread Starter 
tween: It's late here, quiet at the Temple of Jawnz, just sippin slow on a Havana Club 7 yr. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

I have some interesting ruminations on the thread as a whole and how it's going as of late, but that is a long post and you guys gotta stop baiting me with questions so I can get around to it someday. lol8[1].gif Right now the thread is nearing absurdism, and I know people who operate brick and mortar clothing stores and realize I am gonna have kvnknurds and Woodyears coming by for their various reasons, they definitely do. This thread though, TOJ itself, everything you see before you - it was originally experimental and 2 years later, it is not shaking some of those elements. I'm not blaming anyone, or myself, it's just the nature of messageboarding, clothes and men's clothes in particular, trying to run a business in this day and age, and shifted reality - what actually seems like weak points regarding TOJ - people even express this in the thread- all of these just make it stronger, actually. There's a long road to walk before you see the other side of the picture....
post #12465 of 42020
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

in reality you ate it's body long before it's skin got turned into luscious black leather, so no hard feelings man lol8[1].gif

Puppy skin moto
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