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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 797

post #11941 of 41339

It's an iconic MMM design, a TOJ version wouldn't really be TOJ at all. All of TOJ's pieces are inspired by classical pieces, but to outright mimic a designer's work (and sell it at a lower price point) would imo cheapen the TOJ brand image. I don't think that's what Drew's going for. 

post #11942 of 41339
Dbear big difference in making a moto style jacket of which is more a creative commons styling, with infinite companies making them since WW2 and Margiela in the last ten to fifteen years being the only small, limited production company doing that particular design.

People just want a Margiela 5 zip without paying for one
post #11943 of 41339
How about a more TOJesque version like a raglan sleeve 5 zip in the same vein as what monitaly has been selling for a couple of seasons - but in lambskin leather

a06fb981bad35e394965c9d353a4915a_h540w455_crop.jpg
post #11944 of 41339

+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Razele View Post

Dbear big difference in making a moto style jacket of which is more a creative commons styling, with infinite companies making them since WW2 and Margiela in the last ten to fifteen years being the only small, limited production company doing that particular design.
People just want a Margiela 5 zip without paying for one


 

post #11945 of 41339
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grug View Post

Really nice. Fit looks great too.

Thanks! Your jacket looks sick!

And don't even stress the fit. A slight alteration and your golden. Just don't take too much off man...if you do, the backside will hug your back and the sleeves might end up looking disproportionate to the rest of the jacket.

Heres some down and dirty photoshoping. This is probably the tightest you would want on the back.
525

This whiskey calf is fucking amazing. You really need to see and touch it in person to fully appreciate it. I don't think people realize how thick and heavy it is. I used to own a 3oz FQHH LW Ryder and its practically the same thickness. It truly needs to be slightly roomy or it will hurt to move, which Drew explained in the post about the VTG. And with wear it will break in and look a lot better on your body. Also, I'm assuming like with most other real leathers that water will only help it. Drew, would you say this is accurate?

I saw someone said they thought my cm was too big on me, but honestly its too tight in the upper body, and any tighter and shorter on the backside and it will start looking ridiculous. The only thing I would change on mine is taking off about a 0.5" from the front length. Everything else is perfect. Which is weird because it measures out to a little less then 20.5", which is exactly the measurement I provided that looks great on me on all my other jackets...I guess theres another measurement at play here that is effecting the front length. I'll do a full on review and post more photos and fit pics as soon as theres a sunny day out.
post #11946 of 41339
Thread Starter 
If the Lost Worlds was 3oz, the TOJ is actually thicker, we are at around 1.5-1.6mm on most of the leathers, which is technically 4oz. That doesn't play out that way in real life as everything has different densities and weight by area is a dumb idea for leather, but yeah 3 oz is only 1.2mm and we're almost always above that for all the leathers.
post #11947 of 41339
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

How about a more TOJesque version like a raglan sleeve 5 zip in the same vein as what monitaly has been selling for a couple of seasons - but in lambskin leather
a06fb981bad35e394965c9d353a4915a_h540w455_crop.jpg

I wouldn't want to do that man, the '/ | \' 八の字 pattern is so implanted as being a Margiela thing (whether it is MMM's original design, I'd highly doubt, but I digress...) - anything using that motif is instantly linked to the jacket.

I don't mind not making the MMM 5-zip or trying to use it to my advantage. It just exists, it's out there for people who want one to buy, it's like $2000-2500 for a decent black one nowadays - just something else. I like my TOJ Moto design; I think it's really come into it's own in the 3rd version. All the details on it have their reason for being, and I like that. It makes sense.
post #11948 of 41339
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbear View Post

^ aren't all these jackets just versions of existing jackets? like Julius has a 5-zip too.
I'm sure Drew can say it better, but the last time he explained it, it was something a long the lines that the 5 zip holds a special place in his heart and if he would to make one, it would be like whoring out his wife to us or something like that lol. (dont' quote me on that)

Yes, pretty much - and re: the Julius X Gordini jacket with the / | \ motif - Julius basically came out and said they lifted that from Margiela, lol. I think it doesn't flow nearly as well in the fitted Julius style, there's something about combining 1) 1950's style rider's construction, 2) the / | \ design, and 3) the right MRS zippers to make the effect blown-out and Margiela-esque (this was coming off his time in the 90's when he was inflating everything proportionally, like right after that collection where he made 1960's doll clothes magnified to real life sizes) - the YKK versions definitely lose that, and the jacket hasn't been the same.

There is a GalaabenD version this season of a 5zip made with Riri zippers, it's about $1600 here, but it straight sucks because they use a 2" long zipper heavily Riri-branded zipper pull (not sure of the code name for the pull but I could look it up) all over the whole thing, it's way exaggerated. It has the banded hem and cuff like a TOJ Moto, the / | \ motif, but these grotesque zippers that ruin the entire thing. Somehow it's so close yet one of the worst leather jackets I've ever seen.
post #11949 of 41339
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razele View Post

Dbear big difference in making a moto style jacket of which is more a creative commons styling, with infinite companies making them since WW2 and Margiela in the last ten to fifteen years being the only small, limited production company doing that particular design.
People just want a Margiela 5 zip without paying for one

but are they the same as when drew bought his? i dont think ive ever seen one as nice as drews, recently. (although the fact that its aged and well worn might add to this)
post #11950 of 41339

so can you give us an update on the rumored "shorter hooded winter jacket"...did the sample meet your quality standards?

post #11951 of 41339
I think the 5-zip design is great, here is that Monitaly one I posted in the should-I-or-shouldn't-I thread. It's a waxy brown calf with wool knit collar, cuffs, and waist. Same as above but leather. I love that it's a small shawl collar instead of a moto one. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

You're also limited to having the / \ zippers either all the way up or all the way down, it's like the opposite of the MMM one with regards to that. Unless you want giant pockets I guess.

h0ace.jpg

I actually had no idea it was originally a MMM design, but i'd be interested to see even more designers take on it for sure, even if Drew won't (unfortunately) be one of them frown.gif
post #11952 of 41339
Thread Starter 
did not. Turns out there was 2 and they're not ready. I just came back from Seoul a few weeks ago but I may have to go again in a few days to see if I can fix them up. Would like to put them out, but if they're not up to nick they're just not gonna be released. I don't put them out unless the recipe works on it's own and can be assembled by the team.
post #11953 of 41339
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tween_spirit View Post

I think the 5-zip design is great, here is that Monitaly one I posted in the should-I-or-shouldn't-I thread. It's a waxy brown calf with wool knit collar, cuffs, and waist. Same as above but leather. I love that it's a small shawl collar instead of a moto one. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
You're also limited to having the / \ zippers either all the way up or all the way down, it's like the opposite of the MMM one with regards to that. Unless you want giant pockets I guess.

h0ace.jpg
I actually had no idea it was originally a MMM design, but i'd be interested to see even more designers take on it for sure, even if Drew won't (unfortunately) be one of them frown.gif

In my eyes, that just looks dumb for a lot of obvious reasons. If the TOJ Moto with the public domain cafe racer design and TOJ detailing could considered austere and relatively modest for the purpose, which I think it can at times now, then this is basically the opposite.
post #11954 of 41339
Drew, what happens to the prototypes you don't approve of? Are they just thrown away?
post #11955 of 41339
Thread Starter 
One of my stylistic inspirations, (and this is a Youtube music video that will interest no one via the music, so you should mute your computer) is this; this was something I saw on TV multiple times as a 12 or 13 year old and I just could not stop thinking about what I'd seen - cotton collared shirt under a black leather rider's jacket. It obviously still gets me bothered til this day, the interface of textures, motifs, softness vs hardness between just the two pieces of clothing - greatness, even in the style-dead 1990's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0llX0fEtks
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