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The new official TOJ thread, 2011 - Page 743

post #11131 of 45081
Thread Starter 
Also, a bit of a somber post in celebration of 11/11/11 that will strike here at midnight; I gotta do the small price increases now, I've been putting it off for a couple months. The bottom line is hurting a bit.

Lamb leather has increased in price by over 35% since I started buying it two years ago from my supplier; I am not sure whether the guy is scalping or what, but it's the lifeline of TOJ's jackets. Calf has also risen about that much, it comes and goes in availability, but it's about the same story but rarer. We just need a little more compensate for the increased material cost at this point, and are not multiplying that by the factors that normal entities would have to do to price a product.

Leather jackets are $735 now, for basic black (also brown on the Bomber and CWU-45). Non-standard colors are still the same 50 extra because that zipper dying cost has not changed.
blacked out hardware and zippers are a free option on the black leathers, and not available on any other color.

VTG leathers, same price, $810.

Baseball jackets are discontinued.

Peacoats, same price, $495

Duffle coat will be $515

Fishtail will be $550, as last year.

TOJ1's, the ones that I've been really needing to adjust the price on from the get go, are $380 now. I'm thinking about discontinuing that model sooner or later, as it was the fall model.

Classic shirts (OCBDs) are still the same $120, but I'm thinking of discontinuing those soon too.


Overall, just a few bucks here and there to keep the pieces going.

Prices are effective immediately. (if you've had an email conversation going with Charly before 4:17am Nov 10 EST in America, then you're still okay to pay the old price)
post #11132 of 45081
I believe the Temple will save me from overspending on a Junya varsity.
post #11133 of 45081
Thread Starter 
I dunno. You can get a nice cardboard leather and shitty material Junya for the price of like 3 TOJ's or the price of a couple different TOJ's, or just a TOJ. redface.gif
post #11134 of 45081
Prophetic words.
post #11135 of 45081
Thread Starter 
Some things about the coats -

I dunno, seem to have lost my magic prototyping touch this year, maybe the tailor is also not in his creative groove, but I wasn't happy with the prototypes for the duffle and fishtail, and a secret piece we're working on. I showed you guys the Duffle prototype #1 and you saw how that was, so you probably have an idea of how I'm feeling. Things are there, but the small things need a bit of remixing.

Anyway, on the Duffle, since you guys have seen that, and weighed in with your own opinions, here's my responses and how the final model will look:

- the hood is big enough. The front of the hood comes up over your mouth the hood looks a little small, but that's just the camera angle and how the coat was sitting.
-the little horn on the wrist, I like. It's also a classical duffle coat feature, so I will keep that. There will be a second horn there for making the wrists tighter but nobody will actually use that feature. There's just vestiges of tradition on clothing sometimes, and they're fine to stick around for aesthetic purposes. Calling out things as non-functional all the time would lead to some very boring looking clothes. No comment on the fact that pretty much all trendy menswear nowadays is based around tons of 'functional-looking but not that usable detailing from traditional clothing that serves no purpose but the aesthetic' redface.gif

The pockets, however, will change - as I'd mentioned before, I will remove those pocket flaps and in their stead, the top edge of the patch pocket will get an elegant edging of leather. It'd be no thicker than one of the leather 'lips' on a varsity or Peacoat pocket. So there, we've toned down the leather accent quite a bit while being able to keep it.

The yoke was also kinda different from how I wanted it - the front pieces of the yoke have a little angle to them; they will be straight across on the production model.

That's about it for changes on that Duffle. It will be a nice little coat and pretty warm with the quilt inside if you opt for that.


The fishtail, we made a prototype, I didn't like it and it wasn't what I was going for - probably the first time in a long time that me and the tailor have had such a miscommunication or disconnect on something, it has been bothering me for the past few days and I just ignored it for a bit. Anyway, my solution to that - we will be basing the 2011 Fishtail on the one from last year, but it'll just get tweaked so that the back will be a little longer, and that's about that. Same as ever, like the Peacoat.
post #11136 of 45081
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

secret piece we're working on

You were saying? nod[1].gif
post #11137 of 45081
Argh, I love duffles too much. Last years model in cracked pepper was perfect, this years model in medium grey would be just as bad ass in a completely different way.
post #11138 of 45081
This may have been discussed before, but a search pulled up nothing.

I know it's a highly subjective subject, but how warm is the lamb leather? Will I be able to wear it in the UK Winter, where the temperature typically hovers around 0-5 celsius?
post #11139 of 45081
First snow here, need to kop a coat. Duffle or fishtail? Would love to see a fitpic of new duffle
post #11140 of 45081
^ Where in MN?
post #11141 of 45081
The toj peacoat is a masterpiece, hopefully people don't sleep so hard this year.
post #11142 of 45081
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shryke View Post

This may have been discussed before, but a search pulled up nothing.
I know it's a highly subjective subject, but how warm is the lamb leather? Will I be able to wear it in the UK Winter, where the temperature typically hovers around 0-5 celsius?

UK winters are probably similar to Japanese winter, doesn't really get cold here properly til February, so rather mild really. These kinds of questions are obviously subject to one's personal constitution and how quickly you get cold, how much you sweat, etc. With proper layering and a thermal layer, like a knit over shirt, over a heat tech, or something like that, the lamb is fine if you expect it to be a windshell. It's not much more than that, but that alone is often fine if you just wear a knit and a tee til about 0 deg C, I find. YMMV
post #11143 of 45081
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Pun View Post

First snow here, need to kop a coat. Duffle or fishtail? Would love to see a fitpic of new duffle

Fit pics.... are no longer going to really be part of TOJ offerings, I feel. We are all at separate stations now, and the pieces are made from established patterns - the dimensions and materials don't really change highly from year to year, so the silhouettes and fits are essentially the same. You can visit those in the gallery. The detailing changes here and there, but that should be easy enough to visualize, most of that is superficial.

I'm pretty surprised most people don't have the TOJ look burned into their consciousness by now; it consists of a square-shouldered rider's jacket look (DR, Moto, variations of the two) a similar but ribbed-bottom Bomber jacket (to include the Harringtons, the MA-1, the varsity jackets), a rarer raglan sleeve short ribbed cuff jacket, and then a peacoat, a duffle, and a fishtail. It's not complicated, and as I said, the pieces don't really change as much as the effect that different wearers give the the pieces.
post #11144 of 45081
Thanks Drew!
post #11145 of 45081
Thanks for the updates Drew.
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