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Hickey freeman suits - Page 8

post #106 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramantaro View Post

It's a plus that HF has a 39 (which fits pretty much true to my chest) as I usually opt for a 40 as a 38 will be too tight.  But the ones I've tried on at NMLC look too old on me, so canvassed or not it wasn't going to work.

Do they have a slimmer line a perhaps a slightly slimmer lapel,etc.?   

Nordstrom has the C series, plus you can do MTM and get it made how you want for almost the same cost just depending on fabric.
post #107 of 156

So a quick googling of "milburn" led me to this thread, and my lurking of Styleforum has given me good advice before. I'll posit a question to verify a point because I'm not currently convinced.

 

I bought an HF suit from Last Call. It was a part of the Milburn line according to the tag. I gave a call to HF directly and they confirmed Milburn is a part of the Mahogany collection (corroborates the 1595 MSRP) and that it's fully canvassed. However, I did the pinch test between the button holes and I'm only catching two layers. Near the top button hole, I can get a third layer but it seems to vanish before it gets even a quarter of the distance between the two button holes.

 

I'll just return this to Last Call if it turns out this is half-canvassed (bought it for <380 after tax). That said, I'm hoping some of you can shed some light. I'll also take it into the local Nordstrom to have them verify.

 

Thoughts?

post #108 of 156
Your interpretation and execution of the pinch test is questionable.

Your looking for one of three possibilities: 1) easy separation from the inner canvas and nothing in between the fabric you have pinched. Should feel like the sleeves. 2) easy separation from the inner canvas, but fusible in between your fingers. Does not feel like fabric rubbing against fabric. 3) No or hard separation from the canvas.

As you have probably surmised, 1 is full canvas with no fusible used, 2 is what is called half canvassed, and 3 is completely fused.
post #109 of 156

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by phxlawstudent View Post

Your interpretation and execution of the pinch test is questionable.
Your looking for one of three possibilities: 1) easy separation from the inner canvas and nothing in between the fabric you have pinched. Should feel like the sleeves. 2) easy separation from the inner canvas, but fusible in between your fingers. Does not feel like fabric rubbing against fabric. 3) No or hard separation from the canvas.
As you have probably surmised, 1 is full canvas with no fusible used, 2 is what is called half canvassed, and 3 is completely fused.

 

When you state "easy separation from the inner canvas," are you suggesting that a fully canvassed suit would be felt as three layers (outer, canvas, and inner)?

 

I just came back from Nordstrom and compared with HF's A and B lines (Addison and Beacon, in this case) and I could easily distinguish the middle canvas layer, I still can't do that here.

post #110 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by aswedreds View Post



When you state "easy separation from the inner canvas," are you suggesting that a fully canvassed suit would be felt as three layers (outer, canvas, and inner)?

I just came back from Nordstrom and compared with HF's A and B lines (Addison and Beacon, in this case) and I could easily distinguish the middle canvas layer, I still can't do that here.

I've never gone so far into the pinch test as to try to discern two layers of canvassing (I'm honestly not entirely sure what two layers of canvas proves or shows. AFAIK it could be a different level of full canvas construction, but I don't know one way or the other). What your searching for isn't whether there is a second layer of canvas or not, but whether the fabric you are able to separate from the floating chest piece (if you can) is backed with a fusible material or not. That is what separates free floating full canvas (traditional construction) v. sort of fused half-canvas (hybrid construction).
post #111 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by aswedreds View Post

So a quick googling of "milburn" led me to this thread, and my lurking of Styleforum has given me good advice before. I'll posit a question to verify a point because I'm not currently convinced.

I bought an HF suit from Last Call. It was a part of the Milburn line according to the tag. I gave a call to HF directly and they confirmed Milburn is a part of the Mahogany collection (corroborates the 1595 MSRP) and that it's fully canvassed. However, I did the pinch test between the button holes and I'm only catching two layers. Near the top button hole, I can get a third layer but it seems to vanish before it gets even a quarter of the distance between the two button holes.

I'll just return this to Last Call if it turns out this is half-canvassed (bought it for <380 after tax). That said, I'm hoping some of you can shed some light. I'll also take it into the local Nordstrom to have them verify.

Thoughts?

Milburn is not Mahogany collection. The A's and B's are: A is more traditional cut and B is more modern cut. These are fully canvassed.
http://www.hickeyfreeman.com/tailored_clothing_mahogany_collection_a_series/

The M's are their Sterling Collection.
Construction is not specified on their site, but they do call it "entry level", and I always thought they were half canvassed. (I'm not sure, though.)
http://www.hickeyfreeman.com/tailored_clothing_sterling_collection_m_series/


I bought a Bentley suit and contacted HF to ask about. Their reply was vague - they said they make many models for stores and don't keep track of the names! - but they also said that almost every HF suit is fully canvassed. I don't think that is true, and I still think the Sterling is only half. But also, seeing both the Mahogany and the Sterling suits at the RAck, the retail price is only a few hundred dollars difference, and the Sterling suits are still around $1,500!

In any case, you don't have a Mahogany Collection suit.
post #112 of 156

The Bentley line should be a part of the mahogany collection if we follow the naming convention (A = Addison, etc., B = Beacon, etc.).

 

Thanks for this. I have the note from HF in writing indicating that Milburn is a mahogany suit, but given that it's not fully canvassed, I'll go ahead and return it to Last Call on the basis that it's not as advertised.

post #113 of 156
Milburn is a Sterling Collection suit. The construction is the same as HF Ltd but with an updated cut.
post #114 of 156

On any given day, Nordstrom Rack is filled with HF Milburn suits, which leads me to believe they are a diffusion line manufactured for discount stores.  The fabric and construction also looks cheaper than the HF carried by Nordstrom.  My guess would be half canvassed with cheaper fabrics.

post #115 of 156

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

On any given day, Nordstrom Rack is filled with HF Milburn suits, which leads me to believe they are a diffusion line manufactured for discount stores.  The fabric and construction also looks cheaper than the HF carried by Nordstrom.  My guess would be half canvassed with cheaper fabrics.

 

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I followed that email with a visit to an actual tailor (versus the previous visits to Nordstrom), who told me "with 100% certainty" that it's a half-canvassed suit based both on the pinch and the way it drapes. With that in mind, I'm going to go ahead and return it to Nieman Marcus as defective.

 

Gentlemen, thank you so much for your help. I'll be sure to stick around!

post #116 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by aswedreds View Post


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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I followed that email with a visit to an actual tailor (versus the previous visits to Nordstrom), who told me "with 100% certainty" that it's a half-canvassed suit based both on the pinch and the way it drapes. With that in mind, I'm going to go ahead and return it to Nieman Marcus as defective.

Gentlemen, thank you so much for your help. I'll be sure to stick around!

Ha - that is the exact same email response I got when I asked them my Bentley. They also added that they didn't know which model the Bentley is, because they make so many different models, and this name is likely exclusive to Nordstrom.

I concur with everyone that the Milburn is Sterling line, which is half canvassed. Glad your tailor was able to confirm.
post #117 of 156

The HF sales associates are a bit clueless - last year I called and asked about suit construction and was told they were fully canvassed. I asked if any of the lines were fused and they replied that all their suits are fused as well. Kinda confusing. puzzled.gif

 

What I've picked up shopping around recently is that the Millburn is half canvassed and the Beacon and Addison are fully canvassed. None of the HF suits I've seen at NMLC recently have been fully canvassed except a few older Madison models. I've seen several of Millburn suits there and lots of suits with no model name at all. Nordstroms Rack has had several Beacon and Addison suits and I actually purchased 2 Beacon suits recently. They were marked down to around $450 last week.

post #118 of 156

I just got a HF 2 button black suit off a site called RueLaLa... kind of like Gilt..... they have a whole mess of them but do not state if they are from the LTD line or what. They do list the MSRP of the suits as $1600.... I picked up a 38S for $349 + tax... so I guess even if it is only half canvased it is a good deal.

 

I was thinking the MSRP of the LTD/half canvased line was far less than some of the higher quality suits also made in Rochester.....can anyone speak to this?

 

I have not worn a HF suit before, but a 38S Jones NY with minor alterations fits pretty well....I am hoping the legs aren't too slim on the pants...I have bodybuilder legs.
 

post #119 of 156
post #120 of 156

If you post a better picture of the inside label and pocket I can tell you for sure, but it looks like an white label and would be an "L" series, like a Lindsey model.  These are their made for discount suits and half-canvassed.  Not bad, but also not a mainline HF.  You can find these for $400-500 in the outlet stores and all over the web discount sites.  Unfortunately they advertise with a "retail" of 1495 which is the same price as a mainline suit and total BS.  I feel they are worth it for 400-500, especially for a hard to find on discount style like a solid navy or charcoal, but recommend not paying more. 

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