`Your best bet is to just walk. There are millions of things to see and 5 days doesn't even come close. Rather than stressing about what to see, seriously, comb a few guidebooks and see if anything really jumps out at you and hit those, then just spend the rest of the time walking around. Rome can't be beat when approached in this fashion. As for restaurants, there are a lot of tourist traps. You can't go wrong with the little stand-up pizza/lunch places, but they are getting hard to find sometimes. Trastevere is a good bet for most sit down restaurants. I can give you a special coffee tip. If you're a cappuccino fan, Bar Sant'Eustachio in pza Sant'Eustachio is pretty good. They keep how they do it "secret" with all these barriers up around the machines, and they pre-sweeten it. It's worth the short walk from Pantheon. A better tip, though, is that while all the tourists are flooding Bar Sant'Eustachio, mosey across the piazza to Bar Camilloni, and order a ristretto. Easily the best espresso/ristretto in Rome. I haven't been there since 2003, so things could change, but you get two good coffee experiences with one piazza, so give it a go! :-) I lived in Rome for 7 years, so my advice is based on personal experience.
