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Bespoke NYC - Page 3

post #31 of 46
I was wondering if anyone on the Forum has personal experience with ordering Alexander Kabazz's shirts. They are beyond my budget. Yet with some of the high rollers on this forum ( Kiton k50 suits, Huntsman Bespoke suits, etc.), there must be someone that has experience. Or is there not?
post #32 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjpj83
whoopee, sorry, I don't understand. Carl does MTM and bespoke, but he outsources the bespoke operation?

All of Carl's work is outsourced. From what he's told me, he can sew a button. That's about it. His "bespoke" product is really good, because Carl is a top-notch fitter.
post #33 of 46
I have used Kabbaz. The shirts are noticably (to me) better than any others I have tried in terms of fit and construction, but the cost differential is incredibly steep. I can get an otherwise serviceble shirt for 1/4 to 1/2 the price, depending on maker and cloth. For everyday wear to the office, that makes more sense. Kabbaz shirts are, for me, special occasion shirts, for the most part.
post #34 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjpj83
whoopee, sorry, I don't understand. Carl does MTM and bespoke, but he outsources the bespoke operation?

I am neither a patternmaker not tailor. Most of my shirts are made for me by a factory in NJ. Patterns are generated by computer. I also have several tailors/shirtmakers who work for me off premise. they make true paper patterns.

As someone in the trade, the need to define these terms can be confusing.

To me, made to measure is just that. Measurements are taken and a garment is cut to those specs. Wether the pattern is generated by a computer or drawn out on paper. The customer has chosen(bespoken for) fabric and a garment is made to his measurements

Some of the online Custom shirt programs are very limted in terms of what can be manipulated in terms of fit. For good reason. The more options that a consumer is given, the better chance of screwing up.

I am amazed at the many options that are on the Jantzen order form that are offered at no charge. Not that it is so expensive to add a colored gusset to a tail of a shirt, just that the chance of the wrong color going on the shirttail is possible. Of course at those prices, I assume that shirts are not returned unless there is a serious fit mistake. are you going to bitch and moan if you received 2mm buttons rather then those obnoxiously thick 3mm buttons. I am amazed that Jantzen does not charge more for those 3mm buttons. They are expensive and I need to sew those on by hand, since the button sewing machine needs to be adjusted to accomadate that button.


At the end of the process, are you pleased with the results.


Carl
post #35 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman
Can recommend from personal experience:
Turnbull & Asser. Most beautiful collection of cloths. "The British look." You must be patient, and don't expect quick turnaround. You are also working through a few degrees of separation in that the NYC fitter e-mails the order to UK where the shirt is made.

I must say a word for T & A. We began with a "test shirt." My tailor studied the fit and made a drawing with changes. Turnbull remade the shirt and awaited my approval before executing the order. The New York folks were pleased, even delighted, to work that way and the results are excellent.
post #36 of 46
Thanks for the explanation, Carl.
post #37 of 46
Just added another great Paris story to my growing collection.

I went in for a fitting and I must admit that the pattern is coming along extremely well. Atam noted one change and I noted one as well but overall the shirt fits very well without being the least bit constrictive.

Everything was great except for the fact that they had used the wrong fabric. I had picked out a basic royal oxford and the shirt was a basic twill (the color was white in both instances).

I pointed this out. Did Atam simply admit to this simple mistake and offer some suggestion as to how to rectify the situation? Of course not!

He stammered as he thought of what he was going to tell me and then came up with 'Oh, this is a finer fabric.' I'm no fabric wonk so that may well be true, though there didn't appear to be much of a difference.

But when I indicated that I really wanted a royal oxford and that this clearly was not a royal oxford but rather a twill he still and quite unbelievably insisted that the cloth (with tightly-woven diagonal lines) was, in fact, royal oxford.

I have no idea why he didn't just own up to a that small mistake. Had he been honest with me, I might have considered taking the shirt - in what I really do consider to be a rather unattractive fabric - off his hands at a slight discount. But now I am rather insistent of having the shirt re-made in the correct fabric.

I had to go to catch a train so I defered that argument for another day but I was really rather depressed that I appear dumb enough to fall for something that.
post #38 of 46
Sounds like the relationship may be doomed from the start.

It's also weird that he would do that, since the real money is in repeat customers, not single shirts.
post #39 of 46
Cantab: I had a similar experience with them last year. Four separate unsustainable statements in succession. Two were of little consequence, arguably, but two were about my order. At that point I gave up and took my business downstairs, after having been a customer since 1999. I am extremely happy with the new guys, who charge less, make a comparable-quality shirt that fits (me) better, and shoot straight.
post #40 of 46
We're definitely getting to that point if we're not already there...

I was able to meet Mark, Atam's father. He really impressed me. He's definitely proud of the business they've built but struck me as an honest, no-nonsense guy.

Is Geneva open on Saturdays? That would seal the deal. I don't begrudge anyone wanting to take a weekend but I really just can't get to Little Korea during the week more often than once every 2-3 months.
post #41 of 46
I'd be interested in hearing more about Geneva, too. Paris's hours are really inconvenient for me, too, and while I am not dissatisfied with Paris, their operating style isn't a perfect mesh with me personally.
post #42 of 46
Whoopee, I am curious as to why you are using local NYC outfits for your shirts when you are getting such good results and are happy with Chan for your suits. Why not use Chan for your shirts too?
post #43 of 46
While the fit through the body and sleeves turned out well, the make, the available fabrics, and some details are not to my liking.
post #44 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnoldh
I was wondering if anyone on the Forum has personal experience with ordering Alexander Kabazz's shirts. They are beyond my budget. Yet with some of the high rollers on this forum ( Kiton k50 suits, Huntsman Bespoke suits, etc.), there must be someone that has experience. Or is there not?
From what I've seen posted on the various fora, and the firm website, I get the impression that his shirts have a somewhat flamboyant dated look to them. They're perfectly suited to the power-suits of days past.
post #45 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by LabelKing
From what I've seen posted on the various fora, and the firm website, I get the impression that his shirts have a somewhat flamboyant dated look to them. They're perfectly suited to the power-suits of days past.

And to the relaxed suits of Naples today, if that's what you want.

His dress shirts are impeccably fit, the service is close to perfect and the fabric selection one of the very best on the planet.
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