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Design a jantzen shirt

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hello all, I'm been lurking on this forum, soaking up all the good fashion advice until now.  For a guy who's about to enter the work force, this forum is a godsend (conversly, if I don't finish my thesis on time, it'll be because I've become addicted to this forum.) In any case, I've been inspired to purchase a jantzen shirt.  I've read all the posts on jantzen religiously, but some information is conflicting, and I still have some questions.  I suspect that many people are in my boat--they want to order a jantzen shirt, but have reservations.   So, if you're sick and tired of reading about jantzen shirts, read no further.  But if you relish the thought of designing a shirt to perfection (given some criteria)... This shirt I'm designing is meant for 'fun', i.e. going to a jazz bar, celebrating at a good restaurant, seeing a nice show, etc. I would not be wearing this shirt to meet important clients, or wearing it to work (unless it was casual day). I want this shirt to look good with these outfits (in order of importance): fitted dark navy pinstripe suit untucked with dark jeans dark blazer and gray slacks I'm envisioning a: baby pink shirt http://www.jantzentailor.com/dobby145.htm or http://www.jantzentailor.com/dobby53.htm with: regular spread collar thick MOP buttons rounded french cuff I've measured a reasonably good fitting shirt and I know exactly the kind of fit I'm aiming for (form fit: no flap under my arms, no billowing at my waist in the back). Here are some questions: 1.  Does jantzen allow for shrinkage?  For instance, if I specify 33" for sleeves, will I get a shirt that has the sleeve length exactly 33"? or will I get one that's 33.5"? 2.  Can I wear french cuffs without cufflinkss casually?  I know this is a faux pas to some, but I saw a guy the other day with french cuffs but no cufflinks and he looked pretty good. 3.  Do you really measure you shirts like the order form specifies?   http://www.jantzentailor.com/howtomeasure.htm i.e. measuring the arch of the back for both sleeves and back.  I've always measured my shirts like this: http://www.listerouge-paris.com/meas...structions.php i.e. straight across the back.   If you measure the arch of the shoulders, I should add an .5''-1" to my straight measurements 4.  I have a rather big oval head.  Measuring around the top of my head (where a hat would go) is 23".  Measuring the circumference in the other direction (top of head to under chin to top of head) is 27".  Should I go for a bigger collar?   http://www.jantzentailor.com/orderform.htm Right now I'm thinking #4 or #5 (they look exactly the same).  Maybe I should get #28, or #P-15 5.  Is there any standard way to measure my arm holes?  I definitely want to avoid baggy fabric under my arms.  But I'm not sure how to make that measurement. 6.  For the form fit, does he give a lot of clearance in the cuffs?  I like my cuffs to go down to the first knuckle on my thumb.  Should I measure the circumference of my hand there, or measure the circumference of my wrist (which is 2.5 inches smaller) since it looks like that's the measurement he asks for.  In other words, if you said your wrists were 7", do you get cuffs that are 8" or 10" in the form fit? 7.  He says to "enclose photo of your body share."   Does that mean I should just take some pictures of myself and send them in? 8.  Any thoughts on back pleats? 9.  He has a pretty ghetto order form (I wonder if I'd get some free shirts if I offered to rework it for him?...hmmm...).  It does not have any encryption, hence, I'm loathe to send my credit card information to him through the form.  What's the best way to get that info to him?  Call, fax, snail mail? Wow, this turned out to be a bit wordy.  Thanks in advance for any advice you guys can give.
post #2 of 17
I was also very uneasy about putting my credit card info on that form, so I faxed my order and everything went smooth. The only trouble I had with faxing was that I had to do so during Ricky's hours of operation which meant the wee hours of the morning where I live. I would also be careful with the "Form" fit. I went back and forth between ordering the "Form" or "Medium". In the end I ordered the "Medium" and am very glad I did. I am a thin guy who does not like baggy clothes, but anything smaller than the "Medium" would be very form fitting in my estimation... almost like a second skin.
post #3 of 17
I only have one shirt so keep in mind my perspective is limited to that and what I have read. 1. Does jantzen allow for shrinkage? For instance, if I specify 33" for sleeves, will I get a shirt that has the sleeve length exactly 33"? or will I get one that's 33.5"? I got exactly what I envisioned/asked for. That includes the sleeve length so it looks like you'll have to account for shrinkage yourself. Incidentally, some folks have mentioned that the sleeves usually come up short so you may want to fudge it an extra half inch longer anyhow. 2. Can I wear french cuffs without cufflinkss casually? I know this is a faux pas to some, but I saw a guy the other day with french cuffs but no cufflinks and he looked pretty good. Conservatively speaking no, but if you like it, who's to tell you otherwise. Do what you do. 3. Do you really measure you shirts like the order form specifies? http://www.jantzentailor.com/howtomeasure.htm i.e. measuring the arch of the back for both sleeves and back. I've always measured my shirts like this: http://www.listerouge-paris.com/meas...structions.php i.e. straight across the back. If you measure the arch of the shoulders, I should add an .5''-1" to my straight measurements Jantzen seems to have their own way of doing things. I would recommend giving them -exactly- what they ask for. 5. Is there any standard way to measure my arm holes? I definitely want to avoid baggy fabric under my arms. But I'm not sure how to make that measurement. You can measure it and submit it as additional info. You can measure your armscye (armholes) and submit that. 6. For the form fit, does he give a lot of clearance in the cuffs? I like my cuffs to go down to the first knuckle on my thumb. Should I measure the circumference of my hand there, or measure the circumference of my wrist (which is 2.5 inches smaller) since it looks like that's the measurement he asks for. In other words, if you said your wrists were 7", do you get cuffs that are 8" or 10" in the form fit? I got a cuff slightly larger I specified, but I'm not sure if that was due to error on their part or intentional. I'll have to wait and see other shirts come in first. 7. He says to "enclose photo of your body share." Does that mean I should just take some pictures of myself and send them in? Yeah, I sent a picture in. 8. Any thoughts on back pleats? Your choice. 9. He has a pretty ghetto order form (I wonder if I'd get some free shirts if I offered to rework it for him?...hmmm...). It does not have any encryption, hence, I'm loathe to send my credit card information to him through the form. What's the best way to get that info to him? Call, fax, snail mail? People have faxed in the order. The form is pretty safe: anybody w/ the technology to sit on the line and pick up the info prolly is doing bigger things. Good luck.
post #4 of 17
Welcome to the Forum. I am sure you will enjoy your time here. I like the fabric selections and the collar/cuff styles you have chosen. To address some of your conerns. 2--You can wear french cuffs without cufflinks casually, but I would not be happy about it. 6--I suggest a medium fit. However, if you want your body shape to be visible, go for the form fit. 8--I have recently been in favor of side pleats. I feel that side pleats give a more traditional, well-tailored look. All the best.
post #5 of 17
Hi, I love itemized questions - so easy to answer . 2: If you can pull this look off then do it but keep in mind that you will have to have your sleves shorter for this (IMHO). Same goes for untucked vs. tucked - a shirt that is short enough to look cool untucked will not stay down your trousers when tucked. 3: I had to fudge my sleve mesurements as the first shirt had it's sleeves too short. No big deal - I think it's only normal to have to experiment with the first shirts. 4: I would give the P15 a shot as the others are rather smallish and limp. Right now I'm wearing a wide two-button collar from the Joseph model on the Latest shirt models page. Looks good on me but really shines w/o a tie but wearing a jacket. 6: (Off topic) If you are slim - please try the form fit but I don't think it has a bearing on the cuffs. My cuffs are just right and measured at the wrist. They end at the root of my thumb. 8: My preference is side pleats but YMMV. 9: I dream about getting my hands on his webpage and correct the worst errors, not to mention tidying it up. Don't loose any sleep over sending your credit card info over the internet - there are a lot of easier ways go get those numbers than some hi-tec eavesdropping. B
post #6 of 17
I don't understand all the fuss about Jantzen's form-fit being skin tight, even from those who say they are pretty skinny. I've ordered the form-fit shirts and they fit me perfectly- they were comparable to medium sized slim shirts from trendy brands like Club Monaco and French Connection, albeit somewhat more tapered at waist. I'm 5' 10" and weigh 145lbs, could it be that I'm exceptionally skinny?
post #7 of 17
Can someone explaine the "reverse crescent shape" found on some collars (like Jantzen shirts) but not on others (like H&K and T&A)? For example, this has the cresecent shape: ... and this doesn't:
post #8 of 17
Quote:
Can someone explaine the "reverse crescent shape" found on some collars (like Jantzen shirts) but not on others (like H&K and T&A)? For example, this has the cresecent shape:
I don't see what you mean. Are you talking about a convex inside collar, like Pat Riley has on some of his collars (and which I loathe)?
post #9 of 17
Quote:
I don't see what you mean. Are you talking about a convex inside collar, like Pat Riley has on some of his collars (and which I loathe)?
I am referring to the edge of the collar, where it touches the shirt body. Notice, in the black shirt, that the edge of the collar slightly curves in before curving out again.
post #10 of 17
I don't know if I can explain anything but it does let the collar sit better on your shoulders when wearing it open with a jacket. I like it but if it's too pronounced it does look a bit strange with out a jacket. B
post #11 of 17
Quote:
I don't know if I can explain anything but it does let the collar sit better on your shoulders when wearing it open with a jacket. I like it but if it's too pronounced it does look a bit strange with out a jacket. B
That makes sense. If I want Jantzen to not cut the collar with the crescent shape--because it does look odd as you say without a jacket--what would be a clear way to describe the instructions?
post #12 of 17
Oh, I see. That collar shape would seem to work better (open) for someone with a bigger chest (than me). When wearing it open without a jacket it does make it tend to spread out too much. I think the best way to avoid it would probably be to find a collar style they make that doesn't have it and then order that. A text description explaining that would probably be way too confusing.
post #13 of 17
Quote:
Can someone explaine the "reverse crescent shape" found on some collars (like Jantzen shirts) but not on others (like H&K and T&A)? For example, this has the cresecent shape: ... and this doesn't:
I think you wind up with the "reverse crescent shape" collar when you have longish collar points with a relatively short collar height.  In order to get the long collar points, the shirtmaker needs to have the collar get progressively longer as you move towards the collar points.  Make sense?  It's somewhat hard to explain, but study a shirt, and you'll see what I mean. Anyhow, it's a lot more noticeable when the shirt is on a hanger and the collar is pressed flat than it is when you're wearing it. In most cases, the curve isn't that noticeable, even when the shirt is worn open.
post #14 of 17
Quote:
In order to get the long collar points, the shirtmaker needs to have the collar get progressively longer as you move towards the collar points.  Make sense?  
Thanks for your thoughts. Hmm, but why does it have to curve when it gets progressively longer?
post #15 of 17
I selected "Tight" for my shirt, and it fits pretty well. Although for my next shirt I'll probably pick "Form" for a more relaxed look. Tight is a bit too muscle-y for me. I imagine putting a few inches of breathing room would make it much nicer looking.
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