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Labels you grown to love, hate, and desire - Page 2

post #16 of 35
I have a distinct penchant for vintage Versace silk items. I have a few silk shirts, ties, and large scarves from when Gianni was still designing. Donatella has a few things that are appealing but certain collections tend to be somewhat lackluster. I have grown to like DSquared, and Roberto Cavalli. As well as Burberry if only for the Prorsum line. Personally I think that YSL/Gucci has more of a dandified style than Oxxford. I really like YSL's stylings.
post #17 of 35
I've grown to be infatuated with Thom Browne's plain, minimalistic, smart looking clothes. Definitely a favorite. I've always really liked Paul Smith as well, and a bit of Etro on the side. I really don't like Armani. I don't really know why, but it never really appealed to me. I also really like Dior Homme, but for the price, I doubt there is much I would wear from that line, because it would be so difficult to go out in and be taken seriously. The suits are excellent though.
post #18 of 35
What i used to hate, now love: Dior Homme: Hedi's designs never really did anything for me around the time of the Red and Solitaire collections, but I've recently grown to love (almost an obsession, lol) everything coming from the label. Especially the Luster and Strip collections from last winter and this summer. The cuts are very amazing and there's lots of signature work that's done, such as shoulder darts in the shirts and darts through the back pockets of the jeans. I was able to get my hands on a pair of the current jeans for this summer in Paris, and while being slim cut through the leg, I fit into the size I normally take in every other brand of jeans. I also purchased the high top white sneakers and a bracelet from last winter's collection. Everything is so unique and well made. I'm very happy to have what I bought. Donatella Versace: I used to think everything coming from Donatella was tacky garbage. I've grown to love most of what she puts out. The pop art sleeveless shirts, leather pants and biker jackets, etc. I think it's totally rockstar and that's what I like. However, I'm not in love with some of the things she released this summer. Helmut Lang: I used to think it was minimalist and boring, but I really, really like the designs coming out of the house lately. The punk thing is cool, but I don't have any experience with the cutting or quality of the clothes. I don't own any HL. Grown to dislike ( for now anyway): Gucci: Ford went too much into the urban cowboy thing, and I really lost touch with the brand. I was very pleased with what he was going back in 2000-2002 with the oriental influence in the summer collections. Cavalli: Too. Much. Color. Really. I used to love the ornate winter coats and peasant shirts. I guess my style changed rather than Roberto's designs. Gianfranco Ferre: Once again, I think it was more my style that changed than the direction of the label. I tend to refer to Ferre's line as formal wear with a twist. Not something I'm interested in anymore. What i desire: More Dior Homme. Basically anything I can get my hands on. Especially that gorgeous python lapel jacket out this season. And a suit. Gaultier's Tout Beau collection. Just because I want to try something new. Other than that, there's just some random pieces from other designers I'd like to have.
post #19 of 35
My .02 Dislike and always will: Dior Homme- Not a fan in any way of the 'cut it so slim it's like spandex' designers. Can't comment on the quality, etc. but the look- slim suit, slim tie, pointy shoes, lots of cuff showing- atrocious. Versace- probably the most unwearable designer of all time. I'm not big on designers who seem to make only runway items- ie, clothing that hardly anyone would even consider wearing. I can appreciate the creativity, etc. but I don't think I've ever seen 1 wearable piece from Versace. Horrible. Dolce and Gabbana- I actually like some things by them occasionally, but I would never buy anything from them as I refuse to dip that far down the quality/value vs. cost ladder. I know there are worse offenders here but they are one of the most glaring. Absolutely ridiculous pricing for what you get. Sitting on the fence over: Prada: 75% of what I see from Prada is terrible, but the 25 is terrific. I really like a lot of their version of classic items: suits, dress shirts, overcoats. Everything else is pretty much runway garbage. Armani: I as well am a minimalist so Armani makes some very appealing things IMO. But it's gotten almost too bland lately, Black Label and Le Collezzioni seem to have dropped a couple notches. John Varvatos: hated everything in his 1st few lines but he's put out some great, great items lately, starting with winter 03. He may have turned the corner. Hard to find a good selection of his items though... Always liked, always will: Ralph Lauren: I hate all the diffusion lines but most Polo RL and Purple Label items look great, are of better quality and very wearable. Can go off the deep end pretty often, but I always seem to like more items from RL than any other designer. Canali- best combo of quality/price out there for dresswear IMO. A little too 'old-manish' occasionally but does all the classics well, which I care about. Can be had for steals at Off Saks regularly. Barbra: just got a couple dress shirts, and VERY impressed. Right there with Borrelli and Kiton at a lower price point. Great designs and a little more exclusive than some of the other high end shirtmakers. Dunhill: VERY underrated IMO. Producing some of the best looking/made items out right now. Their relaunch has been fabulous. I'm big on clean, great fitting items in classic colors, and they are all over that. Accessories are top notch too...
post #20 of 35
post #21 of 35
IMO Prada is absolute crap. I've had things literally fall apart from them. All the lines are grossly overpriced, however I like their innovation with synthetic materials; but still not worth the price. My current favorites are Dior Homme and DSquared. Both labels are innovators in an industry where so much is rehashed. Gucci doing the Urban Cowbay thing yet again is evidence enough.
post #22 of 35
Kiton (despite the obvious quality, the clothes are so damn old-fashioned and grandfatherish to my eyes).
This is an interesting take, as I've always felt that there is a good measure of flash in Kiton's clothes. Especially the ties.
post #23 of 35
Quote Kiton (despite the obvious quality, the clothes are so damn old-fashioned and grandfatherish to my eyes). This is an interesting take, as I've always felt that there is a good measure of flash in Kiton's clothes. Especially the ties.
The majority of the ties are rather boring for my taste, but saw several that are very attractive, for example: Talbott 7-folds, on the other hand, are usually very flamboyant.
post #24 of 35
Thread Starter 
actually, i forgot to add dsquared to my list of labels that i have grown to dislike. Sorry guys, but the designs look like something to come out of diesel or D&G. The price is hardly justifiable. What im amazed however, is the hype the caten bros. have conjured up among their label. The ability to get celebs and "cool" people to pay such prices for those clothes is something every designer should take note of. On a side note...they make damn cool jackets....
post #25 of 35
I used to love Dsquared, but I've grown to be more neutral towards the label. I'd love to try a pair of their jeans, but some of the slogans on their shirts are just ridiculous. Is that supposed to be funny? It's not.
post #26 of 35
DSquared makes terrific (albeit rather expensive) jackets and pretty cool button up and snap button shirts (the workwear thing works for me,) but their slogan tshirts are just asinine (although the colors are very nice.) The line is definitely one of the most overhyped ones out their today.
post #27 of 35
If we count Von Dutch as a label, then that's one brand I'd like to see extinguished.
post #28 of 35
Kiton (despite the obvious quality, the clothes are so damn old-fashioned and grandfatherish to my eyes).
This is an interesting take, as I've always felt that there is a good measure of flash in Kiton's clothes. Especially the ties.
I certainly always felt that Kiton is much more flashy than say, Oxxford, Canali, and even Brioni.
post #29 of 35
Love: Dior Homme... my biggest fashion vice. I have collected quite a bit of Hedi's basics (the black/ white dress shirts, cashmere overcoat, black tux blazer w/ leather lapels) and love the less flashy side of this design. Do have a few crazier pieces that are great for evening wear. It's getting way more expensive now... I'll wait for the sales in July. -Comme Des Garcons- Always thought CdG was too full cut for me until I started tring pieces on... Now I'm obsessed with the Japanes Designers (Rei, Junya, Yohji) drape. - Martin Margiela- Perfect basics, the best cardigan sweater, great vests... I tend to like his winter collections more than s/s -Paul Smith- Love his suits and use of color... Massimo Bizzochi (of Kiton fame) for ties. -Helmut Lang- His pants fit me great and the skinny suits are perfect for my build. - Costume National- love their shoes and great use of finishing/color - Raf Simons... love Raf's long silhouette and accessories. -Les Hommes... great hand detailing In moderation: Prada, Gucci, Dolce, Kiton (love the sportcoats and suits, but I'll wait a few years... will be my fave then) Hate: -Can't Stand D&G labelled stuff... bad flashbacks of trashy wannabe's. Don't mind their non-labelled basics (cargos) - Von Dutch... enough said - Armani- I see no design aspects I admire . . . looks like general moass produced, mediocre design - Dior for Women... Galliano has a few good designs, but he's getting trashy too.... Pete
post #30 of 35
Pete, I like your taste. And I have some good news, Dior Homme's winter collection should be priced relatively cheaper than this summer's.
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