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Gaziano & Girling hit London town

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Today, Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling presented their collection for the very first time.

The majority of the shoes on show were the ready-to-wear / made-to-order range, all the 33 models which can be found in the catalogue and on the web. The shoes look in the flesh (or is it "in the hide") much nicer than on the pictures. They are absolutely exquisitely made.

The secret of their bespoke look is the fact that they are only factory-made up to a certain point, and then Dean Girling finishes the shoes by hand. For those who care about a shapely waist (in a shoe that is), G&G shoes leave even John Lobb's (Paris) "Bootmaker" with extra fat around the midriff. Same thing applies to the heels, they have a much smaller footprint than other ready-to-wear shoes.

G&G RTW offer a quite wide selection of leathers (although not as wide as the bespoke selection, where the choice is literally hundreds). Some are crust (unfinished) leathers that get died on the shoe, while others are aniline died.

There was very little of bespoke samples on show, I believe only two - plus a few samples demonstrating the various production stages (lasted, welted, sole halfway stitched).

There are negotiations with retailers going on. Hopefully G&G shoe will be sold in your friendly neighbourhood store before long.

I wish Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling all the best for the future. They must be, indeed, a couple of brave men to venture into dress shoes, in these days of sneakers and trainers.

P.S. I placed an order for the "Cannes" (Venetian loafer with hand-stitched apron) in dark blue.

post #2 of 12
Ooooh, goody, goody; now you've gotten me all excited. Can't wait for my appointed hour in San Francisco. Thanks for the info.

Do you know if they're able to offer the same bespoke creations he designed at/for EG, or might he be precluded from doing so?
post #3 of 12
They gave GG the customer lasts, and there is no copyright on most of the shoe designs. A quarter brogue is a quarter brogue, from Lobb or GG.

I recall that he was reluctant to make Cleverley's elastic sided slip-ons when he was at EG, though I believe he did make at least one pair, and there may be EG designs that he prefers to stay away from. But he should be able to make just about anything else.
post #4 of 12
Considering they have a RTW model called the "Hove" which is the spitting image of the Dover, the iconic EG shoe, I don't think that IP issues are going to bedevil their bespoke creations.
post #5 of 12
Quote:
The shoes look in the flesh (or is it "in the hide") much nicer than on the pictures. They are absolutely exquisitely made.

And they look terrific in the pics!

I got my catalog in the mail today. Very well done and high quality printing. First class act so far..
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman
Considering they have a RTW model called the "Hove" which is the spitting image of the Dover, the iconic EG shoe.
Actually the "Hove" is (deliberately?) different from the "Dover".

Dover has five eyelets, Hove has four.
Therefore the lower part of the quarters in the Hove are more triangular cut away and the shoe shows more vamp.
Dover has a full heel counter, Hove has a faux one. It is just a row of stitching, not a proper heel cap.

Hove is the "missing link" between the two EG's styles Dover and Ecton:
Dover: 5 eyelets, Hove: 4 eyelets, Ecton: 3 eyelets
Dover: least vamp showing, Hove: medium, Ecton: most vamp
Dover: heel counter, Hove: blind counter, Ecton: no counter.

Side by side:


EG "Dover"



G&G "Hove"
post #7 of 12
Does that mean he could make these?
LL
post #8 of 12
And these?

(does anyone know the name of either of these pairs?)
LL
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Both shoes are bespoke.
But G&G has a version of the first design as readyto-wear,
called "Hayes"
post #10 of 12
They also have a RTW version of the second pair, called Wiltshire, however, neither of the RTW looks as sleek as the bespokes they're patterned after, wouldn't you agree?

Also, the Hayes appears to have a different medallion than the bespoke model. In bespoke, can both be wholecuts (as the second pair appears to be)?
post #11 of 12
How does one go about finding out where G&G will be having its trunk shows? Anyone know if there will be one in the L.A. area any time soon?
post #12 of 12
It's on their web site, which is listed, among other places, in the _other_ G&G London trunk-show thread. :wink:
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