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White Mountaineering - Page 10

post #136 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by tween_spirit View Post


I'll completed agree that it's absolutely restrictive, but more than anything it's just fun. I mean it's interesting to geek out with NC and the attention to detail is phenomenal and I doubt any of the more classic Cabourn pieces will ever look outdated or even untrendy, but right now there is a large group of people and designers interested in taking [one of or] a mix of heritage, americana, tech/outdoor stuff and just have some fun with it.

This is immediately apparent in something like Junya collections, which for as long as I know have taken some theme of american life or culture and taken "classic" pieces dealing with this theme and added playful twists or concepts to everything. Sometimes subtle and sometimes extreme, but the whole idea of all of this being "kinda on it's way down" is irrelevant because the appeal is immediate and I don't think it's ever portrayed as anything but.

You can buy a $1500 WM goretex shell with an allover print of some reworked tribal pattern, and yes the construction will be impeccable but I really don't think anyone buying that is doing so under the impression that they will be attached to this piece for a long time, or that it will be relevant in time. Maybe someone buying a black Patagonia shell will feel this way, but there is still a good chance they'll pick up something new in a few years anyway. For the WM guy it's just an immediate appeal to wear something fun with a pretty cool concept behind it.

I'm writing a lot of words about this because my personal style and stance on fashion in general is pretty closely tied to all this that I'm talking about. We have plenty of "classic" menswear/sportswear, and the past few years have seen a massive resurgence in men caring about what they look like and it's been tied closely to this, since it seems easier for the male population to swallow fashion when it's something they can feel like their dad/grandfather wore and what "real men" wore.

As I'm sure you know this is just as much a trend as anything else and will tire as quickly as anything else, so in the meantime why not have some actual fun with your clothes? So you (not you personally Fuuma) wear a Harris Tweed vest with suede elbow patches just like your dad's favorite professor did. so what. Check out this fucking blazer made of neoprene with an all over print of that tweed. In 5 years when tweed blazers are no longer hip it won't matter either way, but there's no reason to dismiss something current just because it's "restrictive and on it's way down." Critical mass had been achieved in americana/heritage a few years ago as far as I'm concerned, so for now it's fun to ride the wave of exaggerated twists on this while it lasts.

Edit: see my thread for more people and labels having some fun with their clothes while not pushing any boundaries of design.

Very insightful.

I happen to really enjoy the whole 'cracked-out Americana', as I think you called it, aesthetic. I find it interesting visually and more importantly, as you said, its 'fun'!

To me, its kinda the antithesis to the whole 'dark' goth-ninja stuff. Though often when I am looking at fits here, I appreciate the dark edgy looks more as I could never see myself pulling them off.
post #137 of 430
^ The most interesting thing is when cracked-out americana and goth ninja blend together, some of the best WAYWT are the best because they accomplish just that .
post #138 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

^ The most interesting thing is when cracked-out americana and goth ninja blend together, some of the best WAYWT are the best because they accomplish just that .

I'm not sure if you're being facetious or if you really have something specific in mind. If you do, would you mind posting it up? picture ideal, description could be a good reminder too

Edit: I feel like I've done americana goth-light before though and it worked out well. suede buttero combat boots, waxed helmut lang black denim, mj cashmere knit with extended sleeves that went to my knuckles, and a coated linen barbour jacket. so it had the skinny jeans + boots + extra long sleeves thing, and the barbour added something kind of cool to it instead of looking out of place
post #139 of 430
I think this is fits as an example of sipang's description

500
post #140 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by catchh View Post


Fits perfect on me, I got a Medium (2) it says on the tag. I'm a Small in EG. White Mountaineering is smaller than EG so sizing up one is a must. I'm around 5'8 5'9 135 pounds on the slim side. Hope that helps!

I can't afford it either, but its worth it to save up for one shirt if you can! I highly recommend!

Hmm, you're a bit skinnier than me as I'm about 145-150 (fluctuates) - I'm also a small in EG normally, though the small camp shirts this season were too tight. I do have other EG items in small though, including the cruiser shirt jacket from this season, which fits perfectly in small.

Hopefully Union has some medium pieces as I'm making my way to LA this weekend. Thanks for the info.
post #141 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsyde82 View Post


Hmm, you're a bit skinnier than me as I'm about 145-150 (fluctuates) - I'm also a small in EG normally, though the small camp shirts this season were too tight. I do have other EG items in small though, including the cruiser shirt jacket from this season, which fits perfectly in small.

Hopefully Union has some medium pieces as I'm making my way to LA this weekend. Thanks for the info.

No problem! Yeah I got one of the EG camp shirts this summer (Size Small) and it fits perfect on me, the fit of the EG camp shirt is almost exact to the shirt I posted in Medium.
post #142 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by rapefruit View Post

I think this is fits as an example of sipang's description

500

No Americana, maybe Europeana?
post #143 of 430
I dunno, like all fashunz, every fit needs to have the right amount of individuality and just the right dash of pretentiousness (imagine salt, like too much or too little would destroy the dish).

But that americana-goth fits look just a bit too much extra "flavor" added. Too many ingredients spoil the broth concept.
post #144 of 430
In regards to sizing, I find that WM fits pretty TTS.
post #145 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post


No Americana, maybe Europeana?

Americana. Abdul, the assistant designer at Engineered Garments, dresses head to toe Engineered Garments in a way that is nearly entirely goth ninja. It's pretty impressive.
post #146 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post


Americana. Abdul, the assistant designer at Engineered Garments, dresses head to toe Engineered Garments in a way that is nearly entirely goth ninja. It's pretty impressive.

I know the two guys featured in real life and they're wearing euro and Japanese labels either inspired by 19th century European garments (Paul Harnden), Hobbit wear (MA+), arte povera/goth ninja (CDiem), a mix of August Sander and their own take on modernity (Yohji) or even french textile tradition coupled with innovative cuts (Adeline Basely).

Guy on the left lives in a small medieval city near Paris and is quite interested in how his clothing relates to the local architecture, landscape and climate and I'm pretty sure he has never set foot in America nor is really inspired by it, at least as far as design goes (he likes some writers).

I'm pretty sure I was with the guy on the right on the times he bought the scarf, gloves, jacket (Paul Harnden) and boots (CDiem).

I'll easily grant you that EG is very easy to integrate into such an aesthetic, in fact I think it shares quite a lot of similarities with Harnden.
post #147 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post


I know the two guys featured in real life and they're wearing euro and Japanese labels either inspired by 19th century European garments (Paul Harnden), Hobbit wear (MA+), arte povera/goth ninja (CDiem), a mix of August Sander and their own take on modernity (Yohji) or even french textile tradition coupled with innovative cuts (Adeline Basely).

Guy on the left lives in a small medieval city near Paris and is quite interested in how his clothing relates to the local architecture, landscape and climate and I'm pretty sure he has never set foot in America nor is really inspired by it, at least as far as design goes (he likes some writers).

I'm pretty sure I was with the guy on the right on the times he bought the scarf, jacket (Paul Harnden) and boots (CDiem).

I stand corrected. These are SZ guys, right? I thought I'd seen a picture like that somewhere before.
post #148 of 430
Abdul is an assistant designer at EG? I've always had a good time shooting the shit with him over at Nepenthes, and i always thought it was funny to see him in the lookbook, but this just blew my mind. Awesome.
post #149 of 430
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post


I stand corrected. These are SZ guys, right? I thought I'd seen a picture like that somewhere before.

They post on SZ (infrequently) but the french guy is part of "the french crew) and Christian likes to document when they meet for coffee or something so he often ends up there even though he's not that much into it, guy on the right was one of the Ann D fans on tFS so he's been around for a while. Both aren't really into goth-ninja as commonly defined but more into baggy cuts and rough fabrics, which is why they were featured together there, they didn't coordinate it just happened. Some of the most stylish guys around and what they're doing is quite personal and linked to things very much outside fashion.
post #150 of 430
Crossposting this here since I accidentally posted first in the Obscure Trends thread



Checked out ODIN's first shipment of WM stuff. Right now they have about a half dozen styles of socks, 4 button up shirts, 1 pair of 3/4 length pants and one knit.

More is coming in the next week or so, some outerwear specifically. So far it was a pretty conservative buy, but all good stuff.

I would actually consider stuff true to size. I'm a small in normal slim brands, a TB1, etc, and a 1 in WM fit me pretty perfectly, with a looser cut than something like TB. Maybe they've changed their sizing for this season with the increased distribution.

This shirt was probably the highlight, it's some kind of brushed fabric that is super soft not just in texture but in material, and it has a yoke in a more sturdy corded sort of fabric in a slightly darker grey, and 2 strips on the side seams in this same material.

WApgT.jpg

They also had a kind of standard oxford in a light grey as well as black, and a serge fabric button up in dark gray. Can't find photos of these on the site at a quick glance but I'll go through it in a bit and see what I can come up with.


These are the pants they had, and they have a really cool baggy cut with an aggressive taper that makes them sort of bow legged. Would really want to wear these with some fairisle leggings and my WM boots probably, but the smallest they had was 2 and I was drowning in them. I'm a 30 waist and the 2 felt like it would be best for a big 32 or even 34.

PoYaL.jpg


This is the knit and is definitely a highlight of the collection for me as far as stuff that's accessible but still distinctly WM, so I was impressed with that pickup. Still would have preferred the shawl collar cardigan version of this but it's all good.

oON3q.jpg

Prices were fair, oxfords were in the low 300's I think, and the pants, sweater, and the cool shirt I posted above were all around $435-465 IIRC. I think socks were $45 but I didn't pay much attention to them.

I'm probably going to wait for the next shipment before I make a decision on any of it though.
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